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440 back together but runs bad...

Set your motor to #1 TDC then put the cam in at 12 and 6 period. You set #1 to TDC then put the chain on wrong. This makes #6 TDC power stroke.
Dont mean to be irritating but your saying ill need to pull the cover back off and correct it?
 
Just make sure it is on number 1 compression, if you are setting up to number 1. If it is on exhaust then turn the engine one turn, and set it there. No need to pull the cover because of the 12 6 thing.
 
Dont mean to be irritating but your saying ill need to pull the cover back off and correct it?
No you are fine. Degreeing tells the story and with you being only 1/2 degree off that is good. Run a simple compression test that will tell you a lot.
 
Just make sure it is on number 1 compression, if you are setting up to number 1. If it is on exhaust then turn the engine one turn, and set it there. No need to pull the cover because of the 12 6 thing.
If he was not on number one on compression it most likely would not run. It does run.
 
Ok then lets try this. Pop the #1 valve cover. rotate the motor until the #1 intake valve comes up then bring the damper mark to TDC. Check to see where the #1 piston is, then check to see where the distributor is pointing.
 
Just make sure it is on number 1 compression, if you are setting up to number 1. If it is on exhaust then turn the engine one turn, and set it there. No need to pull the cover because of the 12 6 thing.
So get get to #1 compression and turn the engine 1/2 a turn and set my rotor to #1 plug wire? Im sorry youll have to explain it like im 5 years old
 
Ok then lets try this. Pop the #1 valve cover. rotate the motor until the #1 intake valve comes up then bring the damper mark to TDC. Check to see where the #1 piston is, then check to see where the distributor is pointing.
Ive done that several times the rotors pointing to #1
 
Ok my heads exploding thanks everybody im heading to the garage and try some of this info
 
First off 6-12 vs 12-12 = same thing just #1 firing occurs @ 12-12.... #6 firing occurs @ 6-12...

But since your background is Chevy something I've seen many times a again just a few weeks ago is with a multi keyway crank gear its easy to not use the right keyway vs gear marking...

Mopar has the keyway offset from TDC, when the keyway is straight up the crankshaft is not at TDC, it's probably 15 degrees off... If you set the keyway straight up the engine will be a dog, hard to start, no power, runs hot...

As was mentioned above properly degreeing a cam using a degree wheel & a dial indicator is the right way to do it but many consider lining up the dots as degreeing the cam.. It's not...

Mopar Timing setup.... See the keyway?

Screen Shot 2021-06-13 at 3.43.44 PM.png




GM & Ford Timing setup

Screen Shot 2021-06-13 at 3.45.59 PM.png
 
...the timing must be at least 20* advance to run but its shaky and on the road there's no power (or any more than before) and it cuts out while pulling at 30 mph....
Is this what you were seeing prior to the work done? Are any header tubes that are cold compared to the others?
It may be prudent to rule out electrical items first rather than get into the mechanicals IMO.
Because a plug is new doesn't necessarily make it good. What are the plugs telling you?
Is it possible you have a bad one, a bad plug wire, or cap?
 
Dont mean to be irritating but your saying ill need to pull the cover back off and correct it?
No dont pull the cover, I was just saying I liked the 6 , 12 position for getting the dots lined up to begin.
Easy to see if your a tooth off.
Remember its counter clockwise rotation. Just get your engine at tdc and check if 1 or 6 has the rotor pointing at it.
If your rocker adjustment is tight it will run like crap.
Sorry for any confusion on the 6,12 deal.
Do though pull plugs and see if all are firing and run a compression test while the plugs are out.
 
First thing I would do is remove the valve covers and check the push rods and rockers, make sure one didn't come loose. Pull the coil wire and turn the key, make sure they all go up and down the same.
 
Again:
Is the cam hydraulic roller or mechanical roller?
If its a mechanical then you really didn't need to do a 20 minute break in.
If it's hydraulic then you need to recheck your lash.
(Post #14)
 
What distributor and ignition box are you using? Have you done any changing of the box/coil/distributor wiring?
 
Just to clarify the cam timing dots situation......
The dots at 12-12 or 6-12(top-bottom) has no bearing on how the cam is timed relative to the crank.

With the timing set installed and the dots at 6-12...... turn the crank 360*, now the dots are 12-12.
You have not altered the position of the camshaft relative to the crank.
Rotate another 360*, you’re back to 6-12.

When you hear someone tell you “the cam is 180* out”...... rest assured....... that’s not your problem.

Sure, the cam phasing may be off......which could be the problem....... but it’s not because the dots were 12-12 instead of 6-12.
 
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