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Aluminum intake blast material?

Ron_M

Ron_M

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I recently acquired two used aluminum intake manifolds. Cleaned them up with paint stripper and then a wash with spray aluminum cleaner but there are still stains. I am looking for thoughts and suggestions if I hit these with walnut shell media or other soft media and am aware that they'll never be "new". After the blasting, the plan is to have these washed to get out any remaining media.
Am also aware that there is aluminum colored engine paint.
Searched 9 pages on this forum as well as Moparts and the HAMB and Google.

Ideas? Thank you in advance.
 
I like glass beads, sodium bicarbonate, or walnut shells....tried all three at one time or other....not much difference but the glass beads left a more shiny (but not polished) surface.
 
Last edited:
I used glass bead and Eastwood Aluminum Blast paint.

IMG_1296.jpg
 
I keep glass beads in my blaster for just that purpose. Just remember that a lot of older paints and coating were good at being gas resistant , only some "newer" are ethanol resistant . That ethanol in the gas will really screw up a purty manifold......
 
I haven't tried it yet but, blasting followed by treatment with one of the bare metal protectants should be durable. They advertise being chemical resistant.
Mike
 
Ron_M said:
I recently acquired two used aluminum intake manifolds. Cleaned them up with paint stripper and then a wash with spray aluminum cleaner but there are still stains. I am looking for thoughts and suggestions if I hit these with walnut shell media or other soft media and am aware that they'll never be "new". After the blasting, the plan is to have these washed to get out any remaining media.
Am also aware that there is aluminum colored engine paint.
Searched 9 pages on this forum as well as Moparts and the HAMB and Google.

Ideas? Thank you in advance.
Click to expand...
I did this one with glass beads.

103 - Copy (2).JPG
 
Many years ago I used glass beads to blast an Edelbrock aluminum intake then used a really fine flat file on all the lettering. Really looked sharp!!!!
 
I did this one with fine aluminum oxide - which I believe to be the best all-round media on the planet ...
MW Intake 001 (2018_12_06 16_35_58 UTC).jpg
MW Intake 006 (2018_12_06 16_35_58 UTC).jpg
MW Intake 008 (2018_12_06 16_35_58 UTC).jpg
MW Intake 021 (2018_12_06 16_35_58 UTC).jpg
 
I restore mid 50s-mid 60s dual quad setups for people and if an intake is really stained badly I double glass bead it; first with medium beads at 70psi which removes the stains and then with fine beads at 40psi which flattens any roughness the first pass left. Fresh beads leave a brite silver finish where used beads leave a duller gray finish. Following the blasting I blow the surface off with 80psi or more of air and then "dust" it with Eastwoods Satin Clean to keep the aluminum from oxidizing. Once in the engine bay 's oily atmosphere that will protect the finish.
 
Seymour Alumi Blast Aluminum Paint is really hard to beat. I give all the used intakes I acquire a good cleaning and then apply this product.

Even the nastiest looking intake looks like a new freshly cast manifold when finished . Best part is you can find this rattle can at Autozone for $12.99

You can usually do two manifold out of one can. It's a very cost effective product given the beautiful results it yields.

Tom
 
I take my aluminum stuff to my coater, where they blast it, then polish in a giant tumbler that is used for ceramic headers. A couple minutes tumbling, and VIOLA`....looks almost OEM.
Too long, and it gets almost polished like the ceramic coating.
 
gkent said:
I agree. But it needs to be clear coated afterwards.
Click to expand...

I've never had any luck with rattle can clear coating and I never tried expensive paint job quality coating. In my experiences with it the intake turns yellowish in 6-months.

Tom
 
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