Why the engine wont run
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Ranger16
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Kind of hard to believe based on your pictures. That did not happen sitting overnight and I can only imagine the racket it must have made when it did happen.
66Satellite47
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Not sure it would have made much noise if the cam was off two or three teeth off, just cranking on the starter.. Bending can be quiet.
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Mine is just a 5.7 truck with the SRT 10 wheels but I do LOVE mine!
Paul_G
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The piston tops have a lot of soft sooty goo on them. No signs of valve contact that I can see with my camera. Put another set of pushrods in and cranked the engine over. No strange noises and all the valves open and closed.
Nevada dan
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I would pull the front cover and check the timing, and make sure the top gear doesn't have the dowel pin on the cam sheared, I've done it holding second gear too long , even just to be sure a guy thats used to building chevy's didn't time it wrong
And just for the crowd.. measure one of the straight push rods.
Is it stamped steel or adjustable rockets?
Is it stamped steel or adjustable rockets?
66Satellite47
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One odd thing to check, make sure the ECU is really well grounded. If not there's no fire. Maybe the previous owner kept cranking it & the cylinders flooded enough to hydraulic it and bend the pushrods. Poorly grounded ECU's will drive a guy nuts.
Ironbuilt
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As said before valves stuck? I'd make sure they move before trying to start it.
I suggest a compression test on all cylinders as it was stated there was some kind of goo on the piston tops that didn't allow being able to see piston damage, but if it were mine I'd pull the heads for a complete inspection. Both heads and pistons need inspection. JMO
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I was thinking the same thing
old timing chain jumped or nylon sprockets sheared off
almost had to be
unless a bunch of valves was stuck/seized in the guides or something
lack of oil lack of proper clearances
like said by someone here
or maybe (?) liquid got down in the cylinders & hydrolocked it
I don't think it'd turn over enough to do that many pushrods
before it'd seize
maybe broken camshaft (?)
I grenade'd a full-on race engine at 10,000 rpm
broke the cam in 3 places
& didn't have that many bent pushrods
I know it's a different animal
But;
that many pushrods at one time, is really strange
they all look like they were all bent the same too
like it all happened at once
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Paul_G
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The engine is a fresh rebuild. Done at a machine shop. I have the receipt for the build. I put a set of stock 440 push rods in it, and new plugs. Cranked over fine. Put it back together and fired right up. Let it idle for a while with no issues. Reved it a little, 3000 at the most, no issues. It runs nice and quiet, and smooth.
Now on to the brakes. It has no brakes, probably has many leaks and never been bled. Then I can adjust the clutch and go for a drive.
Now on to the brakes. It has no brakes, probably has many leaks and never been bled. Then I can adjust the clutch and go for a drive.
Keep your lucky rabbits foot with you.
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serious valve float...
or revving the **** out it
just sitting in the driveway no load
& cold engine
& cold valve springs
that usually breaks a spring or 3 too
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I'm amazed & you're lucky...
I'd still wonder what caused it originally ?
lifters, oil starvation, valves hanging-up/guides tight etc.
that would bug the crap out of me... Till I knew...
Paul_G
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The only thing I dont know is what kind of oil pressure it is making. Dash gages dont work. Tomorrow I will try to plumb in a manual gage and see what I get.
I primed the engine while I had the distributor out. It primed normally, dragging down the drill motor once oil pressure built up. It is good to know what the actual oil pressure is anyway.
I primed the engine while I had the distributor out. It primed normally, dragging down the drill motor once oil pressure built up. It is good to know what the actual oil pressure is anyway.
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