Flow Kooler 1679 water pump

hunt2elk said:

I always drill a 1/8" hole in my Stants. Do you do that as well on the Robertshaws?

Click to expand...

I used to but I don't anymore, because I noticed it never made any difference for me. Sometimes I knew there were air bubbles because the temp would spike a few times on a new fill; other times it would be fine from the git-go. It was never consistent with whether I drilled holes or not, so I stopped.
I do always burp 'em real good though after a new fill or removing/adding coolant and that seems to be the best way. I think sometimes it just takes some miles for air to work it's way out.

Time for an update. Got the FlowKooler pump installed and took it out for a drive this afternoon. 86* outside during the test. It still runs at 190* as long as the car is moving, same as before. Before when you would stop at a light in these temps, you could watch the gauge move quickly to above 200*. Now I have to sit for several minutes before it gradually creeps up, so it definitely is an improvement. It also cools down to 190 a lot faster than before after shutting off the hot motor and then restarting. Now I am thinking of trying one of the high flow Robertshaw thermostats as mentioned above. It really shouldn't matter if I go 160, or 180 does it? The motor runs at 190 and I don't think that would change with a 160 stat, would it?
Some pics of the new pump along side the PRW that the engine builder used. One thing I noticed is the difference in the seating shoulder between the 2. I would be nice if the FlowKooler impeller was pushed out a bit more, there is room and I would think it would move more water.

IMO....
The closer to the inlet "eye" section of the pump housing the impeller operates, the more efficient the pump eill operate. Usually, the Flowkooler package provides two or three different gaskets. Use the thinnest gasket to position the impeller as close as possible without interference to the housing. This will minimise the "short circuiting" the exiting coolant from re-entering the impeller eye, reducing overall flow. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

RJRENTON said:

IMO....
The closer to the inlet "eye" section of the pump housing the impeller operates, the more efficient the pump eill operate. Usually, the Flowkooler package provides two or three different gaskets. Use the thinnest gasket to position the impeller as close as possible without interference to the housing. This will minimise the "short circuiting" the exiting coolant from re-entering the impeller eye, reducing overall flow. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

Click to expand...

Only 1 gasket came with and it wasn't very thick. Curious what your opinion is on 160 vs 180 degree stats?

hunt2elk said:

Only 1 gasket came with and it wasn't very thick. Curious what your opinion is on 160 vs 180 degree stats?

Click to expand...

Personally, I use the 180° pressure balanced t-stat (without the 1/8" bleed hole) and on a hot day it runs ~ 195° but depends on engine RPM and ambient temp. Using a 160° t-stat will not operate any colder in spite of others thoughts. I also use a Mopar #2998956 radiator, 7 blade aluminum Mopar fan, Mopar # 2806070 torque drive fan clutch and shroud, 50-50 Dexcool solution and 16# cap. Sometimes the temp will reach 200°-210° without the world coming to an end or melting down.....not a big deal. Not exactly sure where the maximum, never to be exceeded temperature of 180°origionated at..... Just my opinion of course
BOB RENTON

hunt2elk said:

Have any of you guys swapped a standard Mopar water pump with one of these FK pumps with no other changes?
Reason I ask is on my 493" stroker, Glen Ray 22" radiator with shroud, 216 clutch fan, 180* Stant Super Stat. At 80* ambient or cooler it runs 190* all the time. However, with this hot humid weather we have been having it raises temp quickly while idling at stoplights. Wondering if their claim of moving the water faster to drop hot idle problems is true.

Click to expand...

Got my first one for this build