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Sure grip verses cone clutch.

blue69runner

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Have a 489 cone clutch diff. So any one can tell me will it work like the sure grip clutch diff. Talked to a old mopar guy here in Stark fl. He told me they ran the cone type diff and he never had a problem. When the got worn he put a shim behind the cone to rebuild it. They tested it and it worked like a new one. So any thought's on the subject would be grate. Just to inform me on my choice. Have looked every where for the clutch type or sure grip but no luck. Thanks Blue.
 
Measure the break away torque. It should be 125ft lbs or more. If it’s less it’s worn. In theory cones style isn’t rebuildable although some people say they shim them for a renewed outlook on life. Clutch style are rebuildable. Both will perform well

Here is a clutch style
https://www.doctordiff.com/8-3-4-clutch-type-sure-grip-powr-lok.html
 
So any one can tell me will it work like the sure grip clutch diff...

When they are right, they work very well IMO.

When the got worn he put a shim behind the cone to rebuild it
Some info on that.......
How To Recondition a Sure Grip Cone | For A Bodies Only Mopar Forum

Have looked every where for the clutch type or sure grip but no luck.
They are not just giving away opens theses days either. Dr. Diff has powr lok centers available.
 
I haven't worked on a cone style yet but borrowed one from a friend to try out different gearing, it's supposedly a new unit but the one thing I noticed is it won't do a slide or donuts lol. Maybe someone will chime in on whether or not this is common but it will spin both wheels in a straight line and go to an open differential while attempting to drift the car. Having rebuilt the clutch style and knowing how the 2 work I will only buy the clutch type.. easily rebuilt and work great.
 
You can't just shim a cone unit to make it work again. You HAVE to machine (some used a grinder) some material from the faces of the cones because they became worn and 'faced up' with the fit in the case. The cones are tapered and the taper is what grips the case and when some of the grip surface wears, the face of the cone mates against the case. I NEVER take off more than .035" from the faces of the cones. Generally, they do not need to be shimmed with that amount but the next I will usually shim them. Also, with normal abuse, they will last a very long time.
 
I haven't worked on a cone style yet but borrowed one from a friend to try out different gearing, it's supposedly a new unit but the one thing I noticed is it won't do a slide or donuts lol. Maybe someone will chime in on whether or not this is common but it will spin both wheels in a straight line and go to an open differential while attempting to drift the car. Having rebuilt the clutch style and knowing how the 2 work I will only buy the clutch type.. easily rebuilt and work great.
Never had a problem with a cone unit locking up good enough to do slides or donuts and that's one thing I'm famous for! lol. If it's not staying locked while under power doing donuts or power slides, then it needs to come apart and inspected.....and most likely, it's going to need repairing. Also, if one isn't working like it should....don't keep hammering on it unless you want a total pile of junk that can't fixed.
 
Never had a problem with a cone unit locking up good enough to do slides or donuts and that's one thing I'm famous for! lol. If it's not staying locked while under power doing donuts or power slides, then it needs to come apart and inspected.....and most likely, it's going to need repairing. Also, if one isn't working like it should....don't keep hammering on it unless you want a total pile of junk that can't fixed.
Once I realized it wouldn't do it I quit trying and only cruised with it in there, I'm pulling it this weekend. Hopefully this doesn't turn into me fixing his unit.. it does seem to function properly in ever other way.
 
Once I realized it wouldn't do it I quit trying and only cruised with it in there, I'm pulling it this weekend. Hopefully this doesn't turn into me fixing his unit.. it does seem to function properly in ever other way.
When you get it apart, use some small pieces of clay between the face of the cone and case to check how much clearance it has or doesn't have. You don't have to reassemble it for that.....just use a wide face mallet to tap the cones down flat then pull them out to check. Now if the faces have wear on them they need to be machined so skip the clay until afterwards. If you measure .030, that will be fine for many years of service. I have a factory unit here that looks new and it has .030. This thing looks it didn't get much used if any!

Also, Daves69 posted a link to Rusty's rebuild from FABO if you need pics. Rusty's post used to mention taking off .100" from them but I'm not seeing that now. Taking that much off isn't needed plus it makes the cone thinner. Imo, you are taking away grip by making it thinner so only take off what's needed. If you want to use shims on the first machining, start with a .010" and check your spider gear engagement with some blueing ink or clay. I like to rotate the unit to check but that's going to be a tough job. If you have a good vice and are strong.....go for it :D. I made a pair of 'T' handles from a couple of old axles and set them up on the floor, stand on one and grunt on the other. The first time I used shims I couldn't get it to turn at all and it looked like the gears locked it. Took it back apart and pulled out the shims (It was pretty tight but I could turn it with the T handles) and once it was in the car, it worked great.
 
Thing I really don't like about a cone style S/G is every time it slips it's bringing away metal & that metal is left floating in the gear oil... So it's floating through the gears & bearings constantly... In other words a Cone style is eating itself from the very first time you drive the car...
 
Thing I really don't like about a cone style S/G is every time it slips it's bringing away metal & that metal is left floating in the gear oil... So it's floating through the gears & bearings constantly... In other words a Cone style is eating itself from the very first time you drive the car...
A clutch type does the same thing. My Dana 70 has a mag attached to the cover to pic it up and could always epoxy one into the 8 3/4 without much trouble.
 
A clutch type is eating clutch material not iron... Though I must admit the last 8.75 clutch kit I got didn't have any clutch material...
 
A clutch type is eating clutch material not iron... Though I must admit the last 8.75 clutch kit I got didn't have any clutch material...
I've seen them that looked like they had clutch material but it was all metal. Same way with the one in my truck. Been so long since pulling one apart from an original car that I really don't remember what was in it lol
 
Thing I really don't like about a cone style S/G is every time it slips it's bringing away metal & that metal is left floating in the gear oil... So it's floating through the gears & bearings constantly... In other words a Cone style is eating itself from the very first time you drive the car...
Just put in a yukon grizzly unit currious on your thoughts?
 
I haven't worked on a cone style yet but borrowed one from a friend to try out different gearing, it's supposedly a new unit but the one thing I noticed is it won't do a slide or donuts lol. Maybe someone will chime in on whether or not this is common but it will spin both wheels in a straight line and go to an open differential while attempting to drift the car. Having rebuilt the clutch style and knowing how the 2 work I will only buy the clutch type.. easily rebuilt and work great.
It’s worn out. That’s 1 of the first signs. I know from experience. It should do donuts or figure 8s, no problem. Kim
 
I had no trouble "drifting" the 489 3.55 cone style in my 70 Super Bee...

...before that was even a word to describe doing that.
 
A clutch type is eating clutch material not iron... Though I must admit the last 8.75 clutch kit I got didn't have any clutch material...
Is there anything that doesn't have wear short of magenitic catipiller drive ?
 
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