• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Workin on the Dart "The thread"

At the bottom of the "T" list of "Pros" and "Cons" of why or why not to go w/the BMP block vs a factory 440, yes, popping the hood at car shows and having comments about the aluminum block made the list.:D

I would love to have an alum. block , but 5-6000 coins is a little high for mwua !
 
Alright, finally found some time to get after it.

060025D8-91CF-49F8-AA9F-338B7B2A4D16.jpeg
5945B785-0D21-4A24-88F5-0A085310A1EB.jpeg
8B96E1C1-406F-4ECF-9017-6479F50C7EF8.jpeg
63ADF590-91B5-4F1C-88CD-496BCCF8B094.jpeg
AF5B24AB-8F59-44E2-B15B-1419E8F2A79C.jpeg
9DCB1636-711F-4570-801E-4A2BFB3B1685.jpeg
F3984655-A156-4948-9851-452D8EBE4766.jpeg
3EFC35EE-2525-4C54-9032-0536E2F22232.jpeg
CA74FF01-5836-4B57-9A5D-C324454845AF.jpeg
 
how do you like the gear drive for the cam? I never used one. How noisy is it?
 
Looks great too, going to be an awesome Hemi-Dart, again
 
I'm wondering about the windage tray so close to the scraper. What eve oil is removed from the crank/rods doesn't have much place to exit. Your thoughts? I have the same scraper. It has a screen tray about 1.5" down from the pan rail.
Doug
 
I'm wondering about the windage tray so close to the scraper. What eve oil is removed from the crank/rods doesn't have much place to exit. Your thoughts? I have the same scraper. It has a screen tray about 1.5" down from the pan rail.
Doug

Yeah, been thinking about the oiling. I’m going to pull the pan back off and add drains to the returns. I may switch back to the screen in the pan and loose the tray.
 
Did my returns and modified the tray to drain. Had to add a spacer anyway cause I dropped the k frame 1/2” for header clearence.

07339641-251C-4D66-BD21-B57EB9733977.jpeg


CFBA022E-4679-4116-BE18-B4CC17E6CDDA.jpeg


ABF343F1-56E9-4792-A5FC-43C6DF188DD1.jpeg


F73539F1-F510-4A7A-9836-51C60BA50399.jpeg


0F88589A-7B1F-44BC-9F10-83896A9126F6.jpeg


E62838A0-0691-476B-981A-37B23DBB817A.jpeg


3330C8AF-337D-4C2C-B952-FF743BD50FFB.jpeg


4172D26A-CC35-4EA2-831B-B78A2ABB0B61.jpeg


A56C5E18-F024-4F59-AAE6-25DB624ACBC0.jpeg
 
Modified my summit tray a bit. Also this sweet intake showed up, just needs a little port match. Probably dyno early next year.

D6BB8B2A-F56E-491D-957C-3638E1FE13DB.jpeg


75D88EA4-4C00-4F88-A19A-9057355FCB82.jpeg


AFE007D2-0471-45A7-B633-9233571E2D4C.jpeg


2DCE1C1F-FD15-4B39-BD6E-F4B3C6E1FAFD.jpeg


C08A558C-2CC7-42AC-BEE0-DC5E35A59524.jpeg


F28128B6-4B33-4776-8632-9F6953018791.jpeg


065DDEA9-3265-47B7-983E-50CF798CC79D.jpeg


EA3F07B3-8FF4-454D-AA0F-4585581EBC70.jpeg
 
dam that's what I thought. these lugs are larger then the one's that were on it before. thanks a lot 68. you've been a big help. now I have to figure out how to handle this. do I drop the trans and send the convertor back to get the lugs shaved or just take a little off the top. so to speak. any ideas
I've had a few BB that I've had to make a 3/16" thick spacer between the block and trans. In all 3 cases the starter fit better into the ring gear as well since it was further rearward. My racecar block currently has a spacer. Its had 3 different cranks and4 different converters. It's a Mega block. My other Mega block needed a spacer as well.
Doug
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top