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Green Bearings and Sure Grip question.

BeepBeepRR

BeepBeepRR

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OK when the open 741 case was in the roadrunner the axles were ok. When I swapped out to the 489 with the sure grip I got the passenger side axle in with no issue. The driver side was a pain and ended up having to trim 1/8th inch off the axle. I have been doing some reading but Just want to verify my thoughts are correct before cutting a little bit off the other side.

If the thrust buttons are still in place but you have green bearings you do not want the axles to touch the thrust buttons. So my thought was to cut the other side off a little to clear the thrust button. WHat I read was that you have to remove the thrust buttons if using green bearings. But as long as the axles aren't touching them it should be fine right?

Wanted to ask this too. If the passenger side was pressing on the thrust button would that cause the suregrip to slip and sound like I was running over a pack of dogs?
 
I have an oddball idea for your stock width rear axle. Why not use the stock axle bearings? Then you can leave everything else alone and have the rear axle function as designed?

The one place I see a good use for green bearings is on a racecar with a spool, narrowed rear end, and aftermarket axles.
 
Depends on if you have a cone unit or a clutch plate unit. The cone unit has a trapped center pin and well, it's much more than just a pin and cannot fall out. The clutch unit is the one that has the thrust buttons that are held together with a roll pin. Those I take out but don't worry much about the cone thrust button. I may have a pic of what each of them look like and will post it if there's on on this machine.
 
The stock axles were destroyed by me when I was trying to remove the bearing. I cut a little too deep and put a nice groove in the axle oops... These are yukon axles and at the time when I put it together I thought Green bearings were the way to go.
So instead of replacing both axles again I need to make this work. Just need a little info to make sure it does.
 
Cranky said:
Depends on if you have a cone unit or a clutch plate unit. The cone unit has a trapped center pin and well, it's much more than just a pin and cannot fall out. The clutch unit is the one that has the thrust buttons that are held together with a roll pin. Those I take out but don't worry much about the cone thrust button. I may have a pic of what each of them look like and will post it if there's on on this machine.
Click to expand...
The suregrip I have is the clutch style. I know this for sure. I guess my question is if the axles are not touching the thrust buttons do I still have to remove them?
 
BeepBeepRR said:
The suregrip I have is the clutch style. I know this for sure. I guess my question is if the axles are not touching the thrust buttons do I still have to remove them?
Click to expand...
Like I said above, those I take out. Just don't trust them to stay in place with a wormy 1/8" roll pin.....Here's a pic of what's in there.....and I couldn't find one that came out of the cone unit.

IMG_20210717_144138473.jpg
 
From what I know if you go with the green bearing set up that button needs to be removed.
Since your just now doing the axle install it's simple enough to just grab the floor jack and pull the center.

I do have a question though ... is there some reason the oem style tapered bearing will not work on your new axles ?
My 3 cents is leave the button in and install a set of tapered bearings. But I understand the need for greens if that's all that will fit yukons.
 
BeepBeepRR said:
The suregrip I have is the clutch style. I know this for sure. I guess my question is if the axles are not touching the thrust buttons do I still have to remove them?
Click to expand...
No you don’t need to remove the center pin, just cutting the axles short like you want to do does the same thing. The goal is the axles not touching anything on the ends.

My comment about using all the stock parts was for folks who haven’t started modifying anything yet.
 
R413 said:
No you don’t need to remove the center pin, just cutting the axles short like you want to do does the same thing. The goal is the axles not touching anything on the ends.

My comment about using all the stock parts was for folks who haven’t started modifying anything yet.
Click to expand...
I've seen damaged gears etc from the center pin on the clutch units coming apart is why I remove them. There's no way the center pin of the cone unit can fall into the bottom of the housing to be picked up by the gears.....unless there's a catastrophic failure of the whole thing and even then it would most likely stay in place.
 
OK I think the clearance on the driver side might be about a 8th of an inch. I will do the same for the passenger side. I think if its close enough without touching if should not allow the pin to come out. I hope that makes sense.
 
BeepBeepRR said:
OK I think the clearance on the driver side might be about a 8th of an inch. I will do the same for the passenger side. I think if its close enough without touching if should not allow the pin to come out. I hope that makes sense.
Click to expand...
Yup, makes sense....but I've had things that made sense decide to not make sense lol. Does that make sense? :) When it comes to mechanical stuff, I try to always eliminate the stuff that might bite me.
 
It does to me. All the side thrust is taken up by the balls guided in their race. That is the problem with green bearings, ball bearings are not designed for side thrust only radial pressure. Tapered rollers live for side thrust!
Mike
 
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