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Again and again :(

Purepony

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So I went to get an alignment and they say I need ball joints. They don’t want to deal with it because it’s an old car so I decided to do it myself.
What socket do I need to get the upper ball joints out ? Less expensive since I’m only going to use it one times at least for the next 5-10 years I hope. Where can I find the tool locally

and any tips ?
Car 1974 challenger with stock upper and lower arms

thanks all
 
might be less hassle to just install new control arms with new bushings and ball joints already in place......maybe even an aftermarket upgrade
 
So I went to get an alignment and they say I need ball joints. They don’t want to deal with it because it’s an old car so I decided to do it myself.
What socket do I need to get the upper ball joints out ? Less expensive since I’m only going to use it one times at least for the next 5-10 years I hope. Where can I find the tool locally

and any tips ?
Car 1974 challenger with stock upper and lower arms

thanks all
http://www.crazysmopar.com/tech_bjsocket.html
bjsocket.jpg

The easiest way to remove your upper ball joints is with a special socket (see picture below). There are three different sizes, for A, B and C-bodies.
  • A-body - 1.809"
    • 1960-72 A bodies
  • B-body - 1 7/8"
    • Strangely enough there are also 1 59/64" sockets, which should fit the same ball joint?! My ball joint is a Moog K772 and the 1 7/8" fits like a glove...
    • 73 and up A-body
    • 63-78 B-body
    • 70-74 E-body
  • C-body - 2 1/8"
    • Strangly enough there are also 2 9/64" sockets, which should fit the same ball joint?!

Mopar used three different upper ball joints on their RWD Torsion bar equipped cars from 1957-89.

1960-72 A bodies only used the small ball joint

1957-75 Imperials and 1974-78 big cars used the biggest joint (MOOG K778) It was also on light duty Dodge vans from 1971-03, 1972-93 2WD pickups as well as 1987-96 2WD Dakotas and most Vipers.

Everybody else used the middle size (MOOG K772) i.e. 1973+ Darts/Valiants, F-M-J bodies, most C bodies till 1973 and all B-R bodies

Some sites where you can buy these sockets:
All balljooint sockets i've seen are impact sockets. And that's what you want. The easiest way to use these sockets is with an impact gun (electric or air).
You really want to do this with an impact gun. Because those upper balljoints are incredible hard to remove by hand, i.e. a socket attachted to a breaker bar is a guarantee to injury!
If you don't want to buy one, 'cause you know this is the only time you need one, maybe you can borrow one. I belief you can rent these sockets in the United States. Food for thought, I think...

My sockets are from SK Hand tools. Just type SK and the serialnumber in a search engine and the stores who sell them pop up.

  • 1 7/8" - s/n 84688
  • 2 1/8" - s/n 84689
I've read that SK Tools is out of business. So finding a new SK socket is probably rather difficult.
 
http://www.crazysmopar.com/tech_bjsocket.html
bjsocket.jpg

The easiest way to remove your upper ball joints is with a special socket (see picture below). There are three different sizes, for A, B and C-bodies.
  • A-body - 1.809"
    • 1960-72 A bodies
  • B-body - 1 7/8"
    • Strangely enough there are also 1 59/64" sockets, which should fit the same ball joint?! My ball joint is a Moog K772 and the 1 7/8" fits like a glove...
    • 73 and up A-body
    • 63-78 B-body
    • 70-74 E-body
  • C-body - 2 1/8"
    • Strangly enough there are also 2 9/64" sockets, which should fit the same ball joint?!

Mopar used three different upper ball joints on their RWD Torsion bar equipped cars from 1957-89.

1960-72 A bodies only used the small ball joint

1957-75 Imperials and 1974-78 big cars used the biggest joint (MOOG K778) It was also on light duty Dodge vans from 1971-03, 1972-93 2WD pickups as well as 1987-96 2WD Dakotas and most Vipers.

Everybody else used the middle size (MOOG K772) i.e. 1973+ Darts/Valiants, F-M-J bodies, most C bodies till 1973 and all B-R bodies

Some sites where you can buy these sockets:
All balljooint sockets i've seen are impact sockets. And that's what you want. The easiest way to use these sockets is with an impact gun (electric or air).
You really want to do this with an impact gun. Because those upper balljoints are incredible hard to remove by hand, i.e. a socket attachted to a breaker bar is a guarantee to injury!
If you don't want to buy one, 'cause you know this is the only time you need one, maybe you can borrow one. I belief you can rent these sockets in the United States. Food for thought, I think...

My sockets are from SK Hand tools. Just type SK and the serialnumber in a search engine and the stores who sell them pop up.

  • 1 7/8" - s/n 84688
  • 2 1/8" - s/n 84689
I've read that SK Tools is out of business. So finding a new SK socket is probably rather difficult.
Thanks for the heads up and valuable info.
Why do you say injury with a breaker bar? I have an impact but just wondering
 
might be less hassle to just install new control arms with new bushings and ball joints already in place......maybe even an aftermarket upgrade
Thought about that but most arms has come bad reviews or too expensive

Plus I don’t mind the stock suspension car drives well just has some play on the ball joints might as well get it done now
 
if the ball joints are beat, the bushings aren't far behind.........think ahead, or you will be right back in there
 
if the ball joints are beat, the bushings aren't far behind.........think ahead, or you will be right back in there
Well the thing is I did the bushing and ball joints around the same time 2008 car sat for almost 5 years so I’m suprised why they went bad but how hard is it to remove the arm given the adjustment bolts ?
 
SK Tools is still in business. Just this month it was acquired by Hangzhow GreatStar Industrial, the owner of Shop Vac and others.
They have factories in CO and IL. Don't know how long that will last.
 
Just a thought to save $. Many parts stores used to let you borrow special tools for free if you buy the parts from them! Of course, this may no longer be the case since we entered the Twilight Zone!:rolleyes:
 
There is a tolerance for lower ball joints. If it is not exceeded the alignment could proceed. Uppers must be tight.
Mike
 
The lower ball joints wear faster than the uppers, if your uppers are worn in 13 years with little miles, something is wrong.
Now, I’ve had cheap lowers go bad in 2 years.
Anyway, as Eldubb said, $140 for a pair of new stock replacement control arms is worth avoiding the hassle of changing the bushings and ball Joint.
 
The following is advice from experience:
If you're going to replace the upper ball joints, LEAVE the control arms on the car while removing the ball joints. They are hard to get out. Being in the car keeps the control arms anchored to the car and not able to move. A bench vise will work but may loosen or move plus there will be scratches.
An impact wrench works but beats them up. A breaker bar with a cheater extension gives steady tension to remove and install them.
 
The following is advice from experience:
If you're going to replace the upper ball joints, LEAVE the control arms on the car while removing the ball joints. They are hard to get out. Being in the car keeps the control arms anchored to the car and not able to move. A bench vise will work but may loosen or move plus there will be scratches.
An impact wrench works but beats them up. A breaker bar with a cheater extension gives steady tension to remove and install them.

I’ve seen a guy weld a pipe to a receiver hitch, secure it to a truck, and slide the control arm with the bushings removed over the pipe.
 
You can check the balljoints yourself. Jack car up and use crow bar under the tire to lift the wheel and see if there is excessive play in the joints. Remember to do it safely with a floor jack, not a bumper jack.
 
You can check the balljoints yourself. Jack car up and use crow bar under the tire to lift the wheel and see if there is excessive play in the joints. Remember to do it safely with a floor jack, not a bumper jack.
No their needed they have play i saw it
 
I've had alignment shops trying to make money on an alignment and say tie rods or ball joints are bad to get more $. But at least you saw the play and guy wouldn't do them so at least you had a good guy set you straight. NY state stopped checking ball joints on the safety inspection years ago. If wheel isn't falling off your good to go. Good luck with a little bit of a tough job if you never did it before. I had a 58 Fury with a lot of NY pot hole miles on it and I had to replace the uppers and bought the socket. I don't know if I can use that socket on the newer balljoints. Maybe another tool I have to buy.
 
Anyone have any tips on these ? I’ve never done the ball joints
 
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