• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

What broke first and caused the carnage?

@Paul-G
I have a bellhousing, trans, and driveshaft that I think might be work for your car.
It's an early style B&T A833 that I had a slip yoke driveshaft made for. I had trans rebuilt , not many miles on it.
I went with a Passon 5 speed.
I'm in FL though, shipping might be a killer. I'd take $800 for all 3.
 
The OD 4 speed has the largest diameter bearing retainer. There is no BB bellhousing that has that size center hole. You might Be able to machine one bigger. People have done it somehow.
 
If the bellhousing proves too expensive I think it could be welded.
 
I've done this with my 73 Challenger twice. The first time was wide open in 3rd gear. It spit the front cap out of the yoke. Vibrated badly and broke the bellhousing. Actually limped it to work 1 mile. The second time was a burnout 700 miles from home. I know smart, right. It broke the front yoke like yours exactly. I found out after replacing the yoke that the tail shaft was cracked. Not as bad a yours. JB welded it and drove it home the 700 miles. Got real lucky and it didn't damage the floor either time. I've repaired two buddy's cars that have broke the front yokes at speed. Both have needed floor repair. Both were 727. Both bent the output shafts of the trans close to a 20 degree bend. In your case its very possible the strap bolt was over tightened and broke causing your failure. The trans is repairable but make sure to check the output shaft.
Doug
 
I've read all of the posts so far. This story reminds me of an eye opening experience I had one summer back in the mid seventies while working at a local job shop. The foreman handed me a PTO drive shaft and said, "Make another one just like this one." So I did. Two days later, the customer brought it back. All but one of the caps were broken with multiple spider web cracks. What in the world could have caused this? The assistant foreman took the shaft and set it on a surface plate. He said, "Ya see where these cap ends don't lay flat. They have to lay flat at each end." In other words, the axes of the U joints have to run in parallel. If they don't, incredible twisting forces are generated because the U joints want to line up. The misalignment of the U joints can be created by twisting the drive shaft under high torque conditions. The telltale sign of a twisted driveshaft is a whole vehicle harmonic vibration that rattles the wax in your ears at speeds above 45 mph. By design, the driveshaft is the weak link in the drive train. After seeing what a failed driveshaft can do, if one plans to race, ever, have the driveshaft checked by a certified driveshaft specialist. No doubt, they will tell you you need a new one, and it will cost you more than your budget will dictate, but you will have the option of having the shop build you one that will handle the pressures generated in very high torque situations.
 
I have that loop. Expensive but easy to install. I have a built 512 and would never drive without one. My first 440-6 experience was in high school in the 70s. 71 charger.
He broke the drive shaft with me in it. I will never for get that one. Next day pulled one in a junk yard. If you have to replace everything put in upgraded yokes, joints and shaft.
 
Just to update. The job is done, rebuilt the trans, new main shaft, bearings, bell, and tail housing. New pinion on the diff, had a new drive shaft made. The car runs great. Trans shifts smooth. No vibrations.

20210818_113343.jpg
 
I'm glad YOU weren't hurt! That was a lot of carnage:eek:
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top