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69 RT SE value question

Mheiron

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So I bought this car last year knowing it was in bad condition. It needed new quarter panels, a roof, doors, fenders, trunk, hood, floors, wheel tubs, etc etc. The car was being converted from an automatic to a manual. It had a clutch pedal, manual steering column and trans tunnel bump out.
The engine was an unknown, non matching 440.
The cars wiring was there but nothing was hooked up.
The interior was tattered and so far, all I’ve saved are the seat frames, the dash frame and maybe a few pads. It was a console car.
The brake lines were cut or not hooked up and there was no fuel tank.
The car had 4 different sized wheels!

The good news was it’s an SE with factory air.

My question to the forum is what would this car be worth in this condition? Or what would you consider to be a fair price.

I’m doing the restoration labor myself so I doubt I’m upside down but I’d like to know if I over-paid for the car originally.

Thanks in advance for your opinions!

The cars current condition can be seen in “photo garages”.


Here’s the pics:
094B4F9B-C7F3-42E5-B2D1-D6B428A89F65.jpeg
1CB5711A-0E9A-44C7-81E5-E38FD4005F61.jpeg
306A75F1-ECFB-40A7-939D-77462DEC1E8D.jpeg
47F5570F-8A03-4E17-977E-B3AAA7ECF139.jpeg
3B0FEA56-6729-4E16-A0DD-FA3A2D18F015.jpeg
C3C8A349-5583-4A46-87D8-30FDE8B10FFE.jpeg
95508725-2084-4DCD-B6A9-C2C46B233B97.jpeg
 
If you and the seller felt the price was fair when you bought it then thats what it was worth. As has been stated on this and other similar sites countless times, "worth" is a completely subjective issue dependent upon a vast amount of variables. I know you want a number so that you can determine whether or not you overpaid, however that is now a moot point since you did pay it. There is no doubt that there are people who would have paid more than you did (whatever that was) and just as many people who would not have.
 
Sorry for not asking more clearly,

if you and I were negotiating today, what would be a reasonable price range you personally would be willing to pay?

The PO has sellers regret and is grumbling (18 months later). I think he got a fair deal but I’d like to know what objective, knowledgeable forum members would say.

Thanks for your input in advance.

I’m aware that true value is only determined when a buyer and seller shake hands.
 
I will let the G2 charger fans jump in here bc anything I say will be way off the mark.

As to the PO, sorry about his luck, he does not have a dog in the fight anymore once he accepted the money and signed it over.
 
Also, the value now and the value 18 months ago are two entirely different things. I think that what had happened is that the PO has seen how much prices have increased and he is wishing that he was selling NOW.
But had prices gone way DOWN would he be so eager to give you some money back? I think not.
 
Ten years ago Chargers were warming up... Five years ago Chargers were hot... in the past year Chargers have gone crazy... If he didn't see this coming than he's asleep at the wheel... He had a number you paid it... We're done...

R/T SE NOM Lotta rust, probably still a 20-25K project... When done? Minimum 50K & potentially 65-70K?
 
It would be a bonus if you had a fender tag or build sheet,the vin will tell you if its a real R/T car,SE was special options you could check off or get in two different packages.A/C could be check off for any charger except the 4 spd n hemi in the R/T package.At least you bought it n the owner said no as he had plans to restore it n it sits there n rots to death.
 
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Seller is grumbing, let him grumble. Bought a complete 426 Hemi from a friend fairly cheap no grumbling from him. If he's seen what you've done maybe he's got the "I could've done that" syndrome whether or not he could. Like to see more posts as you go.
 
Sorry for not asking more clearly,

if you and I were negotiating today, what would be a reasonable price range you personally would be willing to pay?

The PO has sellers regret and is grumbling (18 months later). I think he got a fair deal but I’d like to know what objective, knowledgeable forum members would say.

Thanks for your input in advance.

I’m aware that true value is only determined when a buyer and seller shake hands.


He agreed to sell you the car for what he was asking, you're done. I wouldn't entertain any whining if it were me. If he's someone you know, I'd say "too bad". Are you thinking of selling it back to him? Don't be nuts. I bought a car in 2016, one owner, #'s car, sitting since 1980. Needed a lot of sheet metal but all original car with the broadcast sheet still in the backseat. The shop told me it was a turd. They have the idea that things haven't changed in the past 10yrs and that they can still get a car like that for 10K. In their dreams.

You might be able to buy a rusted POS with no engine in it for 10K.
 
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Are there different vinyl tops? What’s the significance of full vinyl top? They’re not all the same? I plan on putting it back.
 
On 68-70 Charger the full vinyl top is the only top I've seen... 71 & up they had a half top....
 
Let him grumble. If he keeps grumbling then I’d just stop talking to him. I agree 20-25k maybe just shy of 30 on ebay with a little spit shine
 
On 68-70 Charger the full vinyl top is the only top I've seen... 71 & up they had a half top....

Yeah, and the code is different. When researching this to decode my fender tag, that is what it said. V for vinyl, 1 full vinyl top, and X for black.
 
Are there different vinyl tops? What’s the significance of full vinyl top? They’re not all the same? I plan on putting it back.


I'll check it out with the restoration guy I know but would say that other cars had vinyl tops that may have been different and also remember, they were planning their production options years in advance. I have a 72 with a partial vinyl top.
 
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