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66 Drums to Disk

Virg464

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New Guy question: I'm building a 66 Coronet for the 1/4 mile drag and it currently has drum brakes at all for corners. I don't think I will need disk for the front right away but I hope to get the car up to speed that requires them eventually. So of course my question is what spindles will work or am I better off going aftermarket. The car wont see single digit 1/4 mile times, I don't have the money for that kind of speed. Thanks.
 
I know there are setups that you can use with stock spindles but this came up in a quick search. I'll look for the ones that use stock spindles.

https://www.sstubes.com/products/rd...cNPzK6mmU1ao3flilrKTaHcKu_PDxFqxoCEdwQAvD_BwE

DBK6272_5b1742fb-f95f-4656-912d-b2576c91da61_600x.jpg
 
Dr. Diff provided mine - ‘66 Belvedere. ‘Almost’ flawless install. Prepare to spend about a grand.
 
When these cars were new, I rode my 67 Satellite into the 10's with drum brakes and no problems. It's a controlled environment and usually great space to stop. Normal driving isn't a problem for properly operating and maintained drum brakes. I did install disk brakes on a car that I ran autocross and road courses with. Just another opinion.
 
Drums for drag racing. Switching to disc is a waste of money, especially if you foot brake. IMHO
 
When these cars were new, I rode my 67 Satellite into the 10's with drum brakes and no problems. It's a controlled environment and usually great space to stop. Normal driving isn't a problem for properly operating and maintained drum brakes. I did install disk brakes on a car that I ran autocross and road courses with. Just another opinion.

Thanks for the info. Did you run any kind of HD drums or shoes on the front? I'm pretty sure I'll be lucky to get into the high 10's in the 1/4, so I feel better knowing that drums will work.
 
Thanks for the info. Did you run any kind of HD drums or shoes on the front? I'm pretty sure I'll be lucky to get into the high 10's in the 1/4, so I feel better knowing that drums will work.
That 67 Satellite was standard 10X2.5 manual drums on all 4 corners. I'm sure the brake shoes contained asbestos in the day, but special or heavy duty, no. If I remember there have recently been some NOS brake shoes for sale on this forum. @tnfastback just did the brakes on his GTX earlier in the year, you might inquire what he used, but properly working with good quality components is most important.
 
Really? What makes you say that? I will be foot braking at the line.

While disc brakes stop good and resist fade they can’t hold like a drum brake. This is especially noticeable when raising rpm when foot braking. Think about it. The holding power of the rotational force of a drum brake as opposed to the clamping of a disc.

There is no weight saving converting to disc either.
 
That 67 Satellite was standard 10X2.5 manual drums on all 4 corners. I'm sure the brake shoes contained asbestos in the day, but special or heavy duty, no. If I remember there have recently been some NOS brake shoes for sale on this forum. @tnfastback just did the brakes on his GTX earlier in the year, you might inquire what he used, but properly working with good quality components is most important.
Jerry, not to sound like a smart ***, but why would auto manufacturers all switch from drum to disc so many years ago. I understand what you and others are saying but if drums were as good, if not better in racing situations, why would the switch ever have happened? I would honestly like to know your opinion. Thanks.
 
there is a minimum weight savings of 15 lbs per corner using the after market disc like Wilwood, Strange etc. done it many times. if using factory type disc brakes i would think no savings.
 
Jerry, not to sound like a smart ***, but why would auto manufacturers all switch from drum to disc so many years ago. I understand what you and others are saying but if drums were as good, if not better in racing situations, why would the switch ever have happened? I would honestly like to know your opinion. Thanks.
Disc brakes don't fade with repeated use like drum brakes will. I found this out years ago responding to a fire call with my 1964 Polara as a rural volunteer firefighter. I quickly converted my car to disc brakes using junkyard 1970 Road Runner parts after a white knuckle ride. This was a straight bolt-in, almost 40 years ago, before all the Mopar magazines were running articles how to do it. I just noodled it out myself. I found out there was a difference between disc brake M/C and drum one along the way too! I agree that drum brakes likely hold a drag car on the starting line while foot braking due to more brake lining contact area, however.
 
Jerry, not to sound like a smart ***, but why would auto manufacturers all switch from drum to disc so many years ago. I understand what you and others are saying but if drums were as good, if not better in racing situations, why would the switch ever have happened? I would honestly like to know your opinion. Thanks.
#1 cost
#2 weight
#3 less assembly cost
Disk brakes have become a great asset over the years, but in the day were only slightly better, with the constrictions of wheel size and tire technology. In racing situations such as autocross, and road racing brake fade becomes an issue. Drag racing with 1/8 or 1/4 mile acceleration and usually about 1/2 mile to stop, what's the danger. I am not inferring that disk brakes are not better, but am saying that drum brakes are very sufficient for average driving and drag racing. I have cars with 4 drums, 2 disks and 2 drums, and 4 wheel disks. Newer cars stop better, but my old cars stop about the same. Just my opinion ofcourse.
 
Thanks. Your opinion is what I was looking for. I did the disc conversion. Probably just a mental thing but I’m glad I did.
Bad thing is I completely rebuilt the rear drums with Rockauto parts. Had to machine the drums and file high spots off the shoes - put some blue tape on the shoes to find the high spots. Never remember having to do all that in the past. Can’t find American made parts anymore. Thanks for responding.
 
Thanks. Your opinion is what I was looking for. I did the disc conversion. Probably just a mental thing but I’m glad I did.
Bad thing is I completely rebuilt the rear drums with Rockauto parts. Had to machine the drums and file high spots off the shoes - put some blue tape on the shoes to find the high spots. Never remember having to do all that in the past. Can’t find American made parts anymore. Thanks for responding.
I never go to the trouble to locate high spots on brake shoes, a few hard stops is what I call seatings the shoes. Front disk and rear drum, a couple of easy stops with the emergency brake will seat the rear shoes. With self adjusters, a few hard stops in reverse will adjust everything. 11" drums with no self adjusters is still a pain, but may take more than a few adjustments. If this sounds old school, I am.
 
Ran a 10.60 with 11" drums all around in the early mid 80's and @ 3400 with me in it, I could nail the first turn off at our old shot gun track. in the early 90's I had a high 9 second car with Wilwood discs all around and didn't like them at all! Never could get a good pedal and they faded trying to nail the first turn off! Yeah, drums will fade with high speed repeated use but never had a disc setup that didn't fade doing the same thing. Only difference is that it takes the discs a bit longer to heat up. Also, my mid 90 Dakota will feel like it warps the front discs on hard stops....at least my wife could do that every damn time she drove it and we live in the flat lands. A week of easy driving would smooth them up. Maybe they have soft spots?? If discs were so good, how come the factory left so many cars and trucks with drums on the rear for so long? And why would you NEED discs on the rear?

If you're looking for light weight, yeah, there's the race disc brake packages for that but better use a trans brake with them. My 9 second car had one and that's about the only way to hold it at the line if I wanted to leave at full stall. As RJ always says....just my opinion. :D
 
I never go to the trouble to locate high spots on brake shoes, a few hard stops is what I call seatings the shoes. Front disk and rear drum, a couple of easy stops with the emergency brake will seat the rear shoes. With self adjusters, a few hard stops in reverse will adjust everything. 11" drums with no self adjusters is still a pain, but may take more than a few adjustments. If this sounds old school, I am.
Problem was, when bolting the wheels back on the rears would bind to the point that the car would not move, pushing by hand as the engine has not been finished. I’ve done enough brakes in my time to know when they are adjusted properly, and they were. The high spots were quite prevalent. A lot of filing had to be done. They seem to be okay now but I am certainly going to use you ‘seating’ method when I get the engine fired up. On the Dr. Diff discs, I had to chase all the threads on the spindles for the caliper mounting bracket bolts to thread in. Other than that they when together well.
 
If you go with Wilwood disc's note they say there's a wheel fitment disgram to figure if your 15" wheels fit.
There's also been questions about Magnumforce's reliability and customer service. Other places sell Wilwood.
 
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