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3000 CFM is that sufficient?

Vanderstel

Vanderstel

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I'm planning on a basic rebuild for my 318, with some simple upgrades... 4BL, headers, standard stuff, it's a 67 Satellite. But it has factory AC and I plan on going to a vintage air system. It currently has a stock fixed 7 blade fan.

Will this 3000 CFM be correct for my application?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-238
 
That electric fan will not pull 3000cfm through a rad and modern condenser @ 18.5 amps. That only about 1/3 hp. I would try your fan with a shroud first.
 
Oh it seems fine now, rigid fan & shroud, I was thinking of converting to electric.
 
You could put a clutch fan on. I’d recommend the factory ac system if it’s all intact...simplicity!
 
I would ask the people at Vintage what they have seen in the past. That is if you can't get the old a/c working.
 
I just called Vintage Air and they said anything 2500 CFM and above would be enough
 
Is your electrical system up to the task of getting an electric fan to run?
 
kyle vanderstel said:
I'm planning on a basic rebuild for my 318, with some simple upgrades... 4BL, headers, standard stuff, it's a 67 Satellite. But it has factory AC and I plan on going to a vintage air system. It currently has a stock fixed 7 blade fan.

Will this 3000 CFM be correct for my application?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-238
Click to expand...

Out of curiosity, where did the 3000 CFM number come ftom? A fan, be it a propeller or centrifugal design, have two rating point numbers: CFM and Static Pressure. Example: 3000CFM @ 2.0" W.C.(Water Column) or OSI (Ounces per Square Inch) or even PSI. To state CFM without stating the Static Pressure point is useless information.....its like stating: "how high is up". Typically, propeller fans have poor static pressure capabilities which means that as soon as the fan has any static pressure requirements (static pressure equates to resistance to air flow like air flow thru the radiator), the CFM decreases significantly. Unless the fan is operating at a constant RPM, the air flow and static pressure capabilities will vary. In adfition, moving hot air, like air flow exiting the radiator will require higher fan capacities, because air flow is based on air density. The hotter the air temp., the lower the density in terms of pounds/hour will be moved. And air density at standard conditions is: the density of air is not constant. Its value varies at different levels. For instance, The density of air is about 1.225 kilogram per cubic meter (kg/m3) at 15 degree Celsius and at sea level. (On the metric scale). At a different temperature, higher, it will be lower density. Moral of the story: do not believe all you hear. Ask at what static pressure AND air temperature.
BOB RENTON
 
3000 CFM came from the summit listing. I haven't seen a listing yet, that discusses static air pressure and how good or bad a fan is as air temperature varies. All one has is what the vendor describes. That's why I called Vintage, they have several fans for sale on their site with a wide range of CFM's. They guy told me anything >2500 CFM would be enough.

As far as the electrical system supporting 18.5 amps, that's a really good question, I really don't know. It has a Summit Powermaster PWM-75191 alternator
(https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-75191/make/plymouth#overview ,
which according to the listing is rated at 95amps?
 
kyle vanderstel said:
3000 CFM came from the summit listing. I haven't seen a listing yet, that discusses static air pressure and how good or bad a fan is as air temperature varies. All one has is what the vendor describes. That's why I called Vintage, they have several fans for sale on their site with a wide range of CFM's. They guy told me anything >2500 CFM would be enough.

As far as the electrical system supporting 18.5 amps, that's a really good question, I really don't know. It has a Summit Powermaster PWM-75191 alternator
(https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-75191/make/plymouth#overview ,
which according to the listing is rated at 95amps?
Click to expand...

As the purchaser of the fan, I would inquire as to ALL the fan's capabilities: CFM @ specified S.P. (Static Pressures), horsepower required at that rating point, and/or the air density at the rating point (in pounds/hr at std. conditions or other quantifiable scale). These variables determine the fan's performance. The HP required will detetmine the electrical system's capacity. The vendor will likely say: that's priority information or no one has asked that question b4 or I don't know. Its up to you to ASK for the information and just don't just accept the response without documentation as to his claim. Its your $$$, research the subject B4 purchase, then ask about a performance guarantee based on their recommendation. If you cannot get a satisfactory answer.....pass. Remember the vendor's objective: aquire your $$$$. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON
 
Kyle, looks like you're covered on the alternator. But what about the rest of the wiring? If the wiring is sketchy, slapping on a high amp alternator can result in meltdown. May want to investigate before you get a car b que going.
 
Get a Volvo or Ferd Taurus 2 speed fan. They pull some amps on start up unless you you pwm controller.
 
Do you have 3-3/4" clearance between the radiator and waterpump?
Just sold an old Mopar viscous fan package and it is about 3" in depth.
The issues I have had are the depth of the cooling fans. The higher cfm fans have fairly large motors.
 
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