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Yankee Express RestoMod Project

Ghostrider 67 said:
I'll let it dry for a week then wet sand it and then clear coat it. Then wet sand it again and then polish. In the meantime i'll get the K Frame painted and the front end parts painted and prepped to go together.
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Nice work, it'll look great! But I was curious about your painting times. All my products specify clear coating no more than 24 hours after the base is shot, preferably after only 30 minutes. Why the long wait? Were there a lot of imperfections to clean up?
 
That’s probably to get the chemical adhesion. By waiting, he has to get a mechanical adhesion, hence the sanding. Either way, the clear will stick.
 
Photon440 said:
Nice work, it'll look great! But I was curious about your painting times. All my products specify clear coating no more than 24 hours after the base is shot, preferably after only 30 minutes. Why the long wait? Were there a lot of imperfections to clean up?
Click to expand...
Yes, i have a run or two and some orange peel. It looks okay but feels rough to the touch. I don't have any clear coat on hand anyway. This paint is supposed to be single stage and not need a clear coat too. Wondering if it can be wet sanded and buffed polished out?
 
Yes, single stage can be cut/buffed…..as long as it’s not a metallic color.
 
Now your in a pickle. You could try wet sanding a small area and buff it. If it’s blotchy, then cut/buff isn’t gonna work. That’s always a problem with metallics that are single stage.
 
You could sand it all again with 320, wax/grease remover and shoot the color again then clear it after the color coat flashes off.
 
I'm unconcerned with the wheel well area, or the inners as they get close out panels. Or the rad support area. Just the firewall really and both shock towers.
 
So, clear coating metallics is the way to get a smooth surface? Be ause u can cut and buff the clear?
 
Yes. When metallics are sprayed, they tend to not lay down, instead, they stand up. So if a metallic is sanded, it gets blotchy. So scuff it all, and reshoot the color then clear it. I’d spray 4-5 coats of clear, letting it flash between coats. That’ll give ya enough material to cut/buff.
 
5.7 hemi said:
Yes. When metallics are sprayed, they tend to not lay down, instead, they stand up. So if a metallic is sanded, it gets blotchy. So scuff it all, and reshoot the color then clear it. I’d spray 4-5 coats of clear, letting it flash between coats. That’ll give ya enough material to cut/buff.
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Okay, i'll buy some clear tomorrow. I guess that's also the plan for the rest of the car as well. So, what good is single stage metallic paint if it cannot be applied smoothly enough?
 
If I have to repaint this, again, I might as well change color to a non metallic. Something easier to spray and deal with. I don't want to have to fool with these issues on this 20 foot long slab sided flat top crate. Maybe base / clear coat.
 
Metallics are kinda hard to get right for the novice person. As long as ya don’t get runs, orange peel, sags or drips, the clear will fill in and make it look smooth. I’d suggest painting something with what you have and then clear it after it flashes. Or, get a single stage solid color and cut/buff it.
 
5.7 hemi said:
Metallics are kinda hard to get right for the novice person. As long as ya don’t get runs, orange peel, sags or drips, the clear will fill in and make it look smooth. I’d suggest painting something with what you have and then clear it after it flashes. Or, get a single stage solid color and cut/buff it.
Click to expand...
What i'm gonna do is get some clear and then spray the front bumper , as it's ready to go. Then clear that and see what it looks like to give me an idea of how the car will look.
 
Another idea is to leave this section as is and paint the rest of the car with this Pearl color...also painting the inner fender close out panels this color...and the stripes across the hood and down the fenders in the brown....

p16104a_caribbean_bay_blue_pearl.jpg
 
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