Steel fuel line at Fuel pump -

• Aug 21, 2021

• #1

TopBanana72

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Hi all, I'm trying to connect a new pump-to-carb steel line on a 318. I thought I had it threaded in OK, but when I started engine... drip drip drip. I tried tightening it more but stripped something and broke it. I'm getting a new fuel pump and steel line for a second go at it.

Is there a secret to doing this connection right?

thanks

 

• Aug 21, 2021

• #2

Red63440

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Make absolutely sure you don't cross thread it....!!

 

• Aug 21, 2021

• #3

Durandal25

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Yes. There are tips and tricks to this
1. Assemble them together outside the car.....to get a feel for it
2. When the pump is on the block connect to the fuel pump end then the carb.
3. If you cant thread it on by hand, then its cross threaded.
4. Drink heavily both before and after.

 

• Aug 21, 2021

• #4

moparedtn

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Yep, developing the habit of starting anything threaded by hand first will take you far in this life.

 

• Aug 21, 2021

• #5

Durandal25

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moparedtn said:

Yep, developing the habit of starting anything threaded by hand first will take you far in this life.

Click to expand...

......2x 1000 on that.......holy crap.

 

• Aug 21, 2021

• #6

Demonic

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Buy a set of line wrenches.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-...-SAE-Flare-Nut-Open-End-Wrench-Set/1000600343

 

• Aug 21, 2021

• #7

Red63440

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moparedtn said:

Yep, developing the habit of starting anything threaded by hand first will take you far in this life.

Click to expand...

That’s what she said!

 

• Aug 26, 2021

• #8

TopBanana72

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OK fellas. I drank and screwed in the new line to the new pump. I'm very certain no cross-treading. I wrenched it pretty tight. I get a little spotting on the old shop towel after running engine. Should I go for one more strong cinch? How tight do these thing go?

 

• Aug 27, 2021

• #9

Demonic

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Pretty snug. That's why i posted about the line wrenches, 'cause you will need them. Flare fittings seal at the flare, and adding tape or pipe dope is a bad idea. If the leak persists, one of the flare faces is dirty or galled.

 

• Aug 27, 2021

• #10

Photon440

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Good advice - don't resort to pipe sealant. If it leaks, there's a chance that one of the mating surfaces isn't quite accurate or has a nick. You may be able to seal it with a soft copper cone washer.

 

• Aug 27, 2021

• #11

TopBanana72

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Thanks all, I got my line wrenches out and went for one final cinch. It was really all it would go.... I mean it's really tight. That seems to have done it, no leaks or spotting on the shop towel.

Thanks to everyone!