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2007 Ram: Replace the engine or replace the truck ?

They don't do a tail pipe sniff on a dyno? The change in stroke WILL change the tail pipe sniff test
I don't know if they even do a tailpipe probe anymore, at least on computer controlled vehicles. The last I recall is that they look at the emissions equipment, do an evaporative test, scan for codes, look for visible smoke and that is it.
 
Good day today. I went out to several wrecking yards to look for viable cores.
I found a bunch. Chrysler 300s, Durangos and trucks. I was surprised to see vehicles in the yard with minimal body damage with the engines intact. It makes me wonder what went wrong to send them to their graves.
This 5.7 was from a 2004 Ram 1500. It looked like they started to remove the engine but changed their mind.

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I am still new to this. I see spark plug wires and my 2007 does NOT have those. It probably doesn't matter. This engine also looks to have aluminum valve covers and mine are plastic.
I must have seen 10-15 Hemi engines today, all in some form or another. Some with the intake off, some with the front accessories stripped away, others were complete.
 
All I really need is the long block. I don't need nor want an unknown water pump, EGR valve, fan, alternator or P/S pump. The intake is specific to the truck. I can reuse my valve covers and oil pan if needed.
Anyone that has changed spark plugs in one of these trucks knows how tucked in these engines are. The Durango models are far worse. I see cars in yards with the frames cut to get the engine to drop down for access....

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I noticed this trend a few months ago.... Frames cut with cordless saws. On the Durango models, the intake barely clears the base of the windshield. These are obviously assembled with the drivetrain attached to the frame, then the body is mounted afterward. It may be possible to R & R an engine forward through the front but I can't see how.

Pick N Pull is now using these frame supports at the front of the trucks instead of the welded wheel jackstands like they've used for years.
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That's some good junk in those pictures.
Around here the stuff is all rusted out crap, beat to **** usually.

You are a smart guy so I'm commenting more for others in the audience.

Just to be "Captain Obvious" I don't think I would pull an engine unless I could do a compression test on it.
That and the usual check the oil and look inside the valve covers if possible.
Some yards keep pretty fair records on mileage and what was good when the car was obtained.
Even the general condition of the car can tell you something about the way it was maintained.
If you see one with the whole side caved in it's pretty obvious why it's in the yard.
If it's still pretty much complete with no damage then likely something failed trans or engine.
There are actually fairly few pick a part type places around here anymore.
They used to be fairly common.
 
I talked to my axle guy today about changing the gearing. He suggested to look for original Chrysler gears in the junkyards because the aftermarket stuff has been problematic. Noisy gears are common according to him and he said he can't guarantee any new set will be as quiet as a factory set. I found a yard that had 3 trucks with the 3.92 limited slip differentials. Their prices are great too. $170 for an axle complete with rotors and brake cables......Score!
I thought about just getting the cleanest one of the three and swapping it in junkyard fresh.
 
I talked to my axle guy today about changing the gearing. He suggested to look for original Chrysler gears in the junkyards because the aftermarket stuff has been problematic. Noisy gears are common according to him and he said he can't guarantee any new set will be as quiet as a factory set. I found a yard that had 3 trucks with the 3.92 limited slip differentials. Their prices are great too. $170 for an axle complete with rotors and brake cables......Score!
I thought about just getting the cleanest one of the three and swapping it in junkyard fresh.

And whats the holdup? It was good enough to get the truck into the wrecking yard... As Don mentioned look for vehicles with serious body damage, that way you know what got the vehicle into the wrecking yard.... Clean body = mechanical troubles..
 
The three trucks were varied. All were Quad cab but one was a V6 5 speed manual, another was a 5.7 auto 2wd and the last one was a 2002 5.9 Magnum. I forgot that they put the 5.9 in the 2002 trucks. It used to be that manual transmissions were hard on the rear axle as compared to automatics but with a V6, I just don't know. I pulled the cover on all three. They all looked pretty decent.
I don't recall exactly but one was used for crash testing. That makes me wonder a bit about a bent axle housing. It was an offset frontal crash. It had those decals on it and other stickers describing the test data.
 
If your gonna stroke it, don’t worry to about the engine condition. If it separated from the trans, use a breaker bar and see if it’ll spin.
 
I was thinking of that. Pistons, rods, crank, bearings and rings are part of the stroker kits. Rick has fixed several sets of the 5.7 heads. (Intake seats)
 
You are a smart guy so I'm commenting more for others in the audience.

Just to be "Captain Obvious" I don't think I would pull an engine unless I could do a compression test on it.
That and the usual check the oil and look inside the valve covers if possible.
Some yards keep pretty fair records on mileage and what was good when the car was obtained.
Even the general condition of the car can tell you something about the way it was maintained.
If you see one with the whole side caved in it's pretty obvious why it's in the yard.
If it's still pretty much complete with no damage then likely something failed trans or engine.
There are actually fairly few pick a part type places around here anymore.
They used to be fairly common.

Excellent points.
When I used to look for an engine to clean up and put into immediate service, I did look close at the donor vehicle. A hard hit in the side or rear was a good indicator that the vehicle was operational when it was wrecked.
I would usually pull the spark plugs to look for oil burning. I'd pull the valve covers to look for sludge buildup. Finally, I'd look at a couple rod and main bearings. If it passed all those checks, it was usually a winner.
I'm leaning heavily towards an engine to rebuild so all I need is a solid core to build on.
I just was reminded that MDS engines are the 2005-2008 so that is my range of year models to pick from.
I've been price shopping the "stroker" kits and what was around $2000 a few months ago is now either unavailable or around $3000 now.
If by some strange chance I come across a 2005-2008 engine with under 100,000 miles, I might just pull the heads to have my guy correct any valve seat problems, then run it as is. To do that, I'd need a full service wrecking yard. I haven't figured out how to determine the mileage of a vehicle in the self serve yards since they pull the batteries and the odometers are electronic.
Spending $2000 on a low mileage engine, machine work on the heads (and TTY bolts) and head gaskets might be an option to consider.
 
A jump pack might tell you mileage.
You could likely jump the starter relay as well.
 
I had help today getting a rear axle out of a truck. For you east coast guys, you'd wig out at what we have out here. Clean, dry parts that barely need any help to remove. A few spritzes of PB Blaster and a short breaker bar and *CRACK* the nuts came loose. Hardware can usually be used again. Getting the axle out was easy. The truck had NO bed on it so access was great.
Then.....
These axles are heavy! I've pulled and bought several 8 1/4" and 8 3/4" axles and hauled them myself. I can lift and move them with a little bit of grunting. This is a 9 1/4" truck unit with rotors and calipers. The axle tubes are 3 1/2", maybe bigger. While loading, my buddy slipped and fell....injuring his knee. I had to take a board from the back of another truck and break it down for him to use as a crutch. I helped him out, loaded the tools and was aiming to just leave the axle where it was. It was on HIS wheelbarrow though. I helped him to the truck and put the tools away. On his insistence, I went back and wheeled the axle up to the building, paid for it and plan to return for it tomorrow. My buddy and I are even now....In 2016 I hurt my back helping him load a front and rear axle from a truck that he parted out!
 
What gear ratio?
 
Mine was built with a 3.55. This replacement axle is a 3.92. Both have limited slip diffs.
I noticed years ago that the trucks equipped with the 20" wheel option usually had the 3.92 ratio.
 
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I don't know if they even do a tailpipe probe anymore, at least on computer controlled vehicles. The last I recall is that they look at the emissions equipment, do an evaporative test, scan for codes, look for visible smoke and that is it.
If the car/truck is 2000 or newer, no tailpipe sniff. If older, then yes to the dyno and tailpipe.
 
Yeah, I noticed the absence of any rust in ALL of those pic's! I can't watch anymore!
 
Mine was built with a 3.55. This replacement axle is a 3.92. Both have limited slip diffs.
I noticed years ago that the trucks equipped with the 20" wheel option usually had the 3.92 ratio.


Hope you're not close to that fire NE of sacramento
 
New truck will net you higher registration and insurance costs. I'm still paying $400+ on my 04.5 dually. Something else to kick around. If you do a stroker rebuild, you won't need the 3.92's. Smog test just goes to OBD port in truck and cannot tell if displacement changed. Have to be careful with cam choices so nothing sets codes.
 
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