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Drag race electrical

Virg464

Virg464

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Putting a 66 coronet together for 1/4 (1/8) mile straight line racing. I just put the dash together and the console. I'm wondering if anyone has pics of their race car electricals that they would be willing to share? I'm thinking of putting the ignition (MSD) and other needed relays under the dash (maybe mounted to a board) on the passenger side to keep as much as possible out of the elements so to speak. The car is going to run only on the track, not street driven...maybe once. I have a six circuit panel in the console for ign pwr, starting button, lights, fuel pmp, coolant fan, gauges. Just looking for ideas on how to put it all together, nice and neat.
 
This is what I did. I have it mounted on my passenger side floor.
Works great so far. I have my main power from rear battery disconnect running through another on off switch near the drivers seat so I can kill it from the drivers seat.

upload_2019-12-26_23-50-7-png-png.png
 
Endangered Species said:
This is what I did. I have it mounted on my passenger side floor.
Works great so far. I have my main power from rear battery disconnect running through another on off switch near the drivers seat so I can kill it from the drivers seat.

View attachment 1156270
Click to expand...
Thanks that really helps and I didn't even think about a kill switch for the battery next to the drivers seat, great idea!
 
When my dad had the car they had the MSD and the Relay / Fuse panel way up on the passenger side floor (pretty much under the dash)
It was a PITA every time you wanted to change or check something you were laying on your head.

Put everything where you can get to it easy. (build it so you can work on it, you'll be glad you did)
I soldered and used heat shrink every wire, I then took the extra time to label the heat shrink so I know what the wire is for... make it easier to trace issues, not to mention you will NOT remember what everything when to.

When running your power wires from the battery, use welding cable. Welding cable had hundreds of strands of wire which flows current better. NOT to mention, it's really flexible and tough. I think I used 6ga from the master cut off switch in the back to the internal cut off switch then to my main panel, same goes for the ground, except that goes from the battery straight to my panel.
From the ground on the Panel, I run a 6ga wire to the engine block, now my block is grounded straight to the battery.
It's not hard, just a lot of staring and thinking 3-4 steps ahead, it's really kind of fun.
 
Endangered Species said:
When my dad had the car they had the MSD and the Relay / Fuse panel way up on the passenger side floor (pretty much under the dash)
It was a PITA every time you wanted to change or check something you were laying on your head.

Put everything where you can get to it easy. (build it so you can work on it, you'll be glad you did)
I soldered and used heat shrink every wire, I then took the extra time to label the heat shrink so I know what the wire is for... make it easier to trace issues, not to mention you will NOT remember what everything when to.

When running your power wires from the battery, use welding cable. Welding cable had hundreds of strands of wire which flows current better. NOT to mention, it's really flexible and tough. I think I used 6ga from the master cut off switch in the back to the internal cut off switch then to my main panel, same goes for the ground, except that goes from the battery straight to my panel.
From the ground on the Panel, I run a 6ga wire to the engine block, now my block is grounded straight to the battery.
It's not hard, just a lot of staring and thinking 3-4 steps ahead, it's really kind of fun.
Click to expand...
:thumbsup:
 
My MSD is mounted in the glove box. But the switch box and fuses are easy access. Starter relay is on the inside of the firewall. Do it nice and you want have to touch it.
Doug

E17.JPG
E19.JPG
E20.jpg
E22.JPG
E23.JPG
E18.jpg
 
Th firewall pass thru/ insulator lugs work great. Much nicer than running heavy cable thru a grommet. Available cheap everywhere.
Allstar ALL76142 Thru-Stud Battery Cable
Doug
 
dvw said:
Th firewall pass thru/ insulator lugs work great. Much nicer than running heavy cable thru a grommet. Available cheap everywhere.
Allstar ALL76142 Thru-Stud Battery Cable
Doug
Click to expand...
Been eye ballin them just wasn't sure if they were worth it, but it sounds like they are.
 
If you use the pass thru the hole needed is oval. Cut small first and file to fit. instead of taping harnesses zip tie them. Easier to trace.
Doug
 
I've done several cars for my friends -
I wired a 63 Plymouth wagon. I put the panel in the glove box. The components are mounted on lexan with drawer slides. The wires are in a ballistic nylon sleeve. You can set in the passenger seat and work on everything.
BBodiesonly Bill.JPG



My friends 69 Roadrunner and my car have slide channels with lexan panels under the Kirky seats. There is plenty of room. Again the wires are in ballistic nylon for movement and protection.
RR.jpg
64 Panel.JPG


I've done a couple of others that simply mount on the interior floor/firewall under the dash on the passenger side but those cars are purpose built and basically have no interior. They are a little hard to reach from outside the car but it's easy to get inside and work setting on the floorboard.
Daves Chevelle.JPG


Like Endangered Species, I install an interior battery kill switch in series with the rear kill switch in every car I wire. They are usually located on the hump behind the shifter and are easily accessed even when completely strapped in. I wouldn't wire a car without one.
 
Shorthorse said:
I've done several cars for my friends -
I wired a 63 Plymouth wagon. I put the panel in the glove box. The components are mounted on lexan with drawer slides. The wires are in a ballistic nylon sleeve. You can set in the passenger seat and work on everything.
View attachment 1161257


My friends 69 Roadrunner and my car have slide channels with lexan panels under the Kirky seats. There is plenty of room. Again the wires are in ballistic nylon for movement and protection.
View attachment 1161259 View attachment 1161263

I've done a couple of others that simply mount on the interior floor/firewall under the dash on the passenger side but those cars are purpose built and basically have no interior. They are a little hard to reach from outside the car but it's easy to get inside and work setting on the floorboard.
View attachment 1161264

Like Endangered Species, I install an interior battery kill switch in series with the rear kill switch in every car I wire. They are usually located on the hump behind the shifter and are easily accessed even when completely strapped in. I wouldn't wire a car without one.
Click to expand...
AWESOME! Thank you very much.
 
I have a Morse cable that connects to the rear mounted switch. You can shut the car off or on from the same switch. Inside or outside. Really useful when your strapped in and forget to flip the switch.
Doug

E24.JPG
E23.JPG

F41.JPG
 
Last edited:
I really admire you guys that do such a neat job of wiring.
My dash looks like I dumped a bowl of spaghetti.
 
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