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Junkyard A/C System

JedIEG

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Location
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I would like A/C in my 72 Satellite but not a fan of the Vintage Air price tag, plus they don't sell a kit for my car anyway. I have been considering using junkyard parts to make make my own and was pulling parts off of a Fifth Avenue this weekend which had most of its AC system intact. I was thinking to use the brackets, lines and compressor from that car as I already have all the other accessories for a FEAD with A/C on my 318.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...8,heat+&+air+conditioning,a/c+compressor,6628
I was liking the few posts I have seen with people using 2nd gen ram heater boxes and controls and seeing them fitting well in a car.
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopa...-got-myself-in-to-denver-here-we-come.188547/
Finally, I was going to use the condenser from the LX platform since it has an integrated dryer and trans cooler all in one.
https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/AC/97143-04064914.html
It will require some custom hoses, but I think the whole setup could be had for $500 with rebuilds parts included.... anyone want to poke holes in my idea?
 
It all depends on how much work you do yourself. If the compressor needs to be rebuilt and if you have someone or company that does these do it for you, then the $500 price tag just went out the window. Also a bit more cost to update everything for 134a. You will need a heater box that can accommodate the evaporator for the AC, have you checked to see if your existing one will or locate one from a 72. That may cost a bit more.
 
Good point on the 134a. I'm doubtful the 86 5th Avenue compressor was oe 134a so that would require a rebuild or just buy a new compressor. Originally I thought about running the full magnum engine FEAD but it has a lot of complications with the fuel and cooling systems. It, would be faster, easier and cheaper to run the v-belt setup.
I have a non a/c heater box so I'm looking at a 98-02 ram box heater/ac box that would be oe 134a. I don't think those are CAN dependent systems so I think I could get it to run in the car with no computers. I have considered a 71-74 box, but they are hard to find locally.
 
I thought I would follow up on this thread... I did a "junkyard a/c" but not for $500. It was really closer to $1000 but the majority of the parts ended up being new to eliminate the worry of destroying the compressor. If everything was junkyard parts you could cut that down closer to that $500 mark.
Parts:
-The compressor is a Sanden sd7h15 model 4664,
-The condensor/dryer is for a 08 charger (comes with integrated trans cooler)
-HVAC unit is out of o 95 ram with heavy modifications to the case, evaporator and heater core,
-Controls and vacuum resivor are also 95 ram
-Vents are oe 71-74.
-Defroster ducts are vintage air.
-Expansion valve is for a 90 jeep Cherokee with r134a
-Lines are DIY with fittings and hoses from Nostalgic AC Parts
-Lots of fabrication and a textbook on HVAC design involved, but it works how I wanted.
Still need to fine tune the freon capacity and have the control panel 3d printed (pandemic shot that down with the library being closed) but it has been working pretty well for the past year.

Parts
20200111_150304.jpg


Engine bay
20200320_215121.jpg


Condenser
20200127_202534.jpg


Vents and HVAC box
20200320_215408.jpg
 
I think you did an awesome job on your "Frankenstein" project, and stayed at it and found the results you wanted. Looks good. I consider AC a luxury on our old cars and to me, worth the effort to enjoy. I have stopped converting the older systems over to R 134 and used the drop in blend R 12 replacement gas and have gotten very acceptable results. It can make projects like yours a bit easier I think. Enjoy the cool, man.....
 
I think you did an awesome job on your "Frankenstein" project, and stayed at it and found the results you wanted. Looks good. I consider AC a luxury on our old cars and to me, worth the effort to enjoy. I have stopped converting the older systems over to R 134 and used the drop in blend R 12 replacement gas and have gotten very acceptable results. It can make projects like yours a bit easier I think. Enjoy the cool, man.....

Curiosity.....what is "blend R-12 replacement gas"..... hopefully for your sake, it not a flammable propane or butane or derrived gas. Very dangerous in spite of what the sales hype says. Please enlighten me.
BOB RENTON
 
Bob, it is a petroleum based flammable gas that does so terrify some folks. I did some research on this product back in the day when there were many of these available and determined the risk was low enough for me to take. It is called Arctic Blast sold by Enviro Safe. I ll try to post a link, they do or did have quite a bit info as what temps were needed to combust or auto ignite , but I forgot. Looks like the link not working.
 
Bob, it is a petroleum based flammable gas that does so terrify some folks. I did some research on this product back in the day when there were many of these available and determined the risk was low enough for me to take. It is called Arctic Blast sold by Enviro Safe. I ll try to post a link, they do or did have quite a bit info as what temps were needed to combust or auto ignite , but I forgot. Looks like the link not working.

Is the company out of business? WHY were these compounds discontinued, if they were beneficial? What would happen, say, on a hot day, when the condensing point of the compressed "refrigerant" exceeded that the system's high pressure relief valve opened, the resultant discharge of the flammable gas would be a major safety concern. Or, in another scenario, what would happen in a frontal crash, where the condenser releases its high pressure contents....a possible explosion and fire would result. And what about the circulated refrigerant lubricant, the dessicant are they compatible with the "refrigerant"? Additionally, what about the refrigerant metering devices(evaporator's thermostatic expansion valve)....it's calibrated to the expansion rate of the refrigerant and its specific heat characteristics. These petroleum based "refrigerants" were introduced as a "fix" for the innitial short comings of the R-134A, but after those short commings were corrected, the overall acceptance improved greatly. PERSONALLY, I would NEVER use these flammable gas refrigerants, no matter what their manufacturers claim. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON
 
Very cool.
I patched my a/c system together as well. I used a condenser from a mid 90's didn't truck and a sanden compressor. I have the high pressure switch at about 400 and the low at about 18. On a hundred degree day my center vent hits about 44° which is pretty good because I have nobody plugs no carpet no insulation.
 
Yes , Bob, the company is still in business and still sells the drop in replacement, Arctic Blast. Go to Enviro Safe website if your curiosity is still up. They have or had all the testing documentation that addressed all your questions. I just am not good a posting links sometimes. I remember the product will self ignite once heated to 1500 degrees F. I don't know how to measure flammability. If you pour gasoline on pile of trash and drop a match on it, it goes poooof in a big flash. Drop a match on that same pile after you have poured mineral spirits or kerosine and one does not get a big pooof. You can take a can of WD 40 and a Bic lighter and shoot a flame 5 feet, as well as hair spray. You need a much bigger hotter flame to get this stuff to burn, but , it is flammable. So, stay away from this stuff, operating a internal combustion vehicle with flammable petroleum based fluids can be hazardous to your health.
I was driving my 72 Charger just yesterday and still enjoying the A/C blasting cold air from when I charged it up six years ago. I have retro fitted more than a half dozen cars/trucks over to 134 a in the past but do use this drop in if the system is all there and needs little repairs. But I digress , more info than you requested.
 
Yes , Bob, the company is still in business and still sells the drop in replacement, Arctic Blast. Go to Enviro Safe website if your curiosity is still up. They have or had all the testing documentation that addressed all your questions. I just am not good a posting links sometimes. I remember the product will self ignite once heated to 1500 degrees F. I don't know how to measure flammability. If you pour gasoline on pile of trash and drop a match on it, it goes poooof in a big flash. Drop a match on that same pile after you have poured mineral spirits or kerosine and one does not get a big pooof. You can take a can of WD 40 and a Bic lighter and shoot a flame 5 feet, as well as hair spray. You need a much bigger hotter flame to get this stuff to burn, but , it is flammable. So, stay away from this stuff, operating a internal combustion vehicle with flammable petroleum based fluids can be hazardous to your health.
I was driving my 72 Charger just yesterday and still enjoying the A/C blasting cold air from when I charged it up six years ago. I have retro fitted more than a half dozen cars/trucks over to 134 a in the past but do use this drop in if the system is all there and needs little repairs. But I digress , more info than you requested.

Thank you for the information....however, I will still not use those products. The U.S. EPA and SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) absolutely do not recommend these products because of the flammablity and potential evaporator leak issues are hazardous.
However, eventually R-134A will be replaced with the Honeywell/DuPont product, OPTEON R-1234yf. 2,3,3,3-Tetrafluoropropene, or R-1234yf (HFO-1234yf), is the latest market replacement for R-134a automotive refrigerants. But the A/C systems must be designed to use it. These refrigerants are reputed to be more environmentally friendly. If you've had success with your installation, great. I choose not to use those products, for the previously stated reasons.
There are many other similar products that could be used as refrigerants: Anhydrous ammonia, liquid Carbon Dioxide, liquid Chlorine gas, or any other gas that can be compressed, cooled, liquified, and evaporated, but that's not saying they should or could be used. I'll stick with the tried and true materials and technologies.
BOB RENTON
 
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