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Question on Ignition Wiring

J

jayfire

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I am installing a Holley Sniper and it requires the 12v switched power during run and crank. It already had an MSD box and distributor so the ballast resistor was removed. I believe the wires are just hanging there. Do I just connect these wires together and add the pink wires from the Hyperspark distributor and Sniper unit itself, and that would give me the 12 volts needed during cranking and run? Thanks
28A506E9-C735-4D14-8BB1-4B7D7493AB4B.jpeg
 
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Correct but that will put 12Volts or more on your coil. So the coil needs to be capable of it unless something else was modified.
You should consider replacing the electromechanical voltage regulator as most of the more modern computer controlled stuff recommends a solid state voltage regulator.
 
Don Frelier said:
Correct but that will put 12Volts or more on your coil. So the coil needs to be capable of it unless something else was modified.
You should consider replacing the electromechanical voltage regulator as most of the more modern computer controlled stuff recommends a solid state voltage regulator.
Click to expand...
Thanks Don. I have the Holley Hyperspark coil as well. Do you have a recommendation for a good solid state regulator? This is on a 68 GTX. I’m no wiring wizard, so it has to be easy to wire up. I upgraded to a 95 amp Powermaster alternator as well, so I need something compatible. Thanks
 
If that’s your only body ground, I’d do something better than grounding it to your valve cover.
 
PRND21 said:
If that’s your only body ground, I’d do something better than grounding it to your valve cover.
Click to expand...
This is what was on the car when I bought it. What would be the correct way of grounding the engine? Should it go to the intake instead of valve cover? Thanks
 
There should be a 3/8" bolt hole on the back of the head.
 
Probably not much room behind there... so you may need to find something on the intake.
Maybe someone else with a Hemi can chime in.
 
jayfire said:
I am installing a Holley Sniper and it requires the 12v switched power during run and crank. It already had an MSD box and distributor so the ballast resistor was removed. I believe the wires are just hanging there. Do I just connect these wires together and add the pink wires from the Hyperspark distributor and Sniper unit itself, and that would give me the 12 bolts needed during cranking and run? Thanks
Click to expand...

Yes.
 
I highly suggest using a relay for your switched 12V power. I just did an install and couldn't get the Sniper EFI with hyper spark ignition to run correctly and I've done several of these for customers. The problem is if the bulk head wiring and ignition switch are original 50 year old parts you can have voltage problems which is what was happening with this install. I had a Pertronix 2001 ignition relay kit on the shelf so I installed it and all problems went away because I was now supplying a clean 12V signal direct from the battery.

Other installs I've done didn't have a problem not using a relay but for now on I'm using a relay as part of all new installations. It's easy to do and good insurance...
 
OOOOOOR, you can make some mantenience to the electrical system as must be, because like you said, they are 50 YO parts and if is not because the Sniper EFI system, some other part will beging to cause problems anyway LOL.

so, if we take care of get the gas and brake lines and parts mantenienced, why not electricals too ?

BTW, cars with ammeter THERE MUST BE NOT SOURCE ANYTHING FROM BATT POST, but from alt stud, or some other junction point between alt and ammeter black line
 
69 GeeTeeX said:
I highly suggest using a relay for your switched 12V power. I just did an install and couldn't get the Sniper EFI with hyper spark ignition to run correctly and I've done several of these for customers. The problem is if the bulk head wiring and ignition switch are original 50 year old parts you can have voltage problems which is what was happening with this install. I had a Pertronix 2001 ignition relay kit on the shelf so I installed it and all problems went away because I was now supplying a clean 12V signal direct from the battery.

Other installs I've done didn't have a problem not using a relay but for now on I'm using a relay as part of all new installations. It's easy to do and good insurance...
Click to expand...
Would you suggest the Del City time delay relay? I saw this on some website from a Holley tech. If so, how would you wire it up? Thanks
 
jayfire said:
Would you suggest the Del City time delay relay? I saw this on some website from a Holley tech. If so, how would you wire it up? Thanks
Click to expand...

Can't answer your question about time delay relay, never had to use one. Just a simple 4 wire relay with a 10 amp fuse wired in on battery power wire is all that's needed. Don't make it more complicated than it needs to be. The pink EFI and Ignition wires only need to see 12V ignition power during BOTH cranking and run positions from the ignition switch.

Relay with 4 wires:
One relay wire goes to IGN1 and IGN2. Just connect the ballast resistor wires together so you have 12V in both cranking and run positions.
One relay wire will go to the pink wire(s) for the EFI and ignition depending on what your using.
One relay wire will go to ground
One relay wire will go to positive battery terminal on battery (also use an inline 10A fuse). Just connect along with your battery connection for the Sniper power wires.

It's that simple. If you go to the Pertronix website and look at part number 2001 relay there's a wiring diagram that you can bring up to look at. Only difference is you'll connect the 12V wire to the Sniper pink wire instead of + side of coil. Nice thing about this kit is it comes with a molded connector that fits the relay so it's a nice clean install but cost a little more money vs just buying a generic relay and making up the wiring yourself.
 
69 GeeTeeX said:
Can't answer your question about time delay relay, never had to use one. Just a simple 4 wire relay with a 10 amp fuse wired in on battery power wire is all that's needed. Don't make it more complicated than it needs to be. The pink EFI and Ignition wires only need to see 12V ignition power during BOTH cranking and run positions from the ignition switch.

Relay with 4 wires:
One relay wire goes to IGN1 and IGN2. Just connect the ballast resistor wires together so you have 12V in both cranking and run positions.
One relay wire will go to the pink wire(s) for the EFI and ignition depending on what your using.
One relay wire will go to ground
One relay wire will go to positive battery terminal on battery (also use an inline 10A fuse). Just connect along with your battery connection for the Sniper power wires.

It's that simple. If you go to the Pertronix website and look at part number 2001 relay there's a wiring diagram that you can bring up to look at. Only difference is you'll connect the 12V wire to the Sniper pink wire instead of + side of coil. Nice thing about this kit is it comes with a molded connector that fits the relay so it's a nice clean install but cost a little more money vs just buying a generic relay and making up the wiring yourself.
Click to expand...
Just bought one from Summit. This is why I joined this forum. To learn from guys who have experience. Thanks
 
let's see... IF THE CAR ALREADY HAD MSD as mentioned... the junction point for the Ign1 and Ign2 must be already made! maybe not at the ballast plugs but somewhere else! so just attachethe Sniper EFI system at same place than the MSD it was and you should be done!
 
Nacho-RT74 said:
let's see... IF THE CAR ALREADY HAD MSD as mentioned... the junction point for the Ign1 and Ign2 must be already made! maybe not at the ballast plugs but somewhere else! so just attachethe Sniper EFI system at same place than the MSD it was and you should be done!
Click to expand...
It had a MSD 7al-2 that was wired straight from the battery on a toggle switch. Car wouldn’t start or shut off unless the toggle switch was on/off. It was all temporarily wired behind the passenger seat because of lack of room under the hood for that big ignition box. This was all done with the carb still on the car. Only wires running through the firewall was to the distributor and the Blaster coil. I didn’t see where there would be any connection between IGN 1 and IGN 2 with that setup. If it was, I ripped it all out and started over. Hopefully that makes sense. Jay
 
Nacho-RT74 said:
let's see... IF THE CAR ALREADY HAD MSD as mentioned... the junction point for the Ign1 and Ign2 must be already made! maybe not at the ballast plugs but somewhere else! so just attachethe Sniper EFI system at same place than the MSD it was and you should be done!
Click to expand...

You can simply use the IGN1 and IGN2 ballast resistor wires he shows hanging there in the photo like I stated. Why make **** more complicated that it has to be...
If your using the hyperspark distributor and coil then why wouldn't you also use the sniper ignition box since the system is already setup for it and all you do is plug it into the sniper wiring harness and done! This way you know for sure it’s wired right and works like it's supposed to!
 
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