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Carter Electric Fuel Pump Failure

kiwigtx said:
I've been thinking about an electric pump in my A100. When the truck sits for a few weeks, it takes forever to draw fuel up to the crab. I was thinking an electric pump would help push the fuel up, and reduce the time spent cranking 'dry'.
Since it's a truck, the noise for my application should be less of a concern. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Hey kiwigtx. This was half the reason I went electric. The Carter pumps sit in rubber insulators on the supplied bracket that help reduce vibration transmitted to body. I also fitted additional insulators between bracket and body, and vibration/buzz/humm felt is zero. Pump is audible (but certainly not overly loud) before engine fires, then inaudible over the exhaust note.
Pump - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/crt-p4070/overview/
Insulators - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/crt-18-14u/overview/

Somebody here wrote that with elec pump installations, it's the electrical side of things that really can complicate the installation....
 
Somehow we have made a mountain out of a molehill, carter pump at the tank (on a toggle switch on the dash) carter mechanical on the block, Texas heat. Flip the electric on to prime the carbs and when it begins to vapor lock, or on a high speed pass. Electric pump allows fuel to flow thru when not running. Problem solved! Oh 426 Hemi with two 3116 Holley carbs and big cam.
 
I ran just electric pump for a few drives - still vapor locked just as bad as with stock mech pump - absolutely no improvement.

Added 1/2" wood spacers under carbs and a vapor return line to tank and BINGO - problem solved. I drove it fast, slow, idled ages and it just would not vapor lock. I am so pleased!!
 
Were you sure it was vapor locking or was the fuel boiling in the car ? When a car vapor locks it stops getting fuel and stops running until it cools some. If the fuel was boiling the car will start to load up and run very rich and you will have to step on the gas and get the car moving to try and keep it running. And the wooden spacer helps the fuel boiling problem alot. Ron
 
383man said:
Were you sure it was vapor locking or was the fuel boiling in the car ? When a car vapor locks it stops getting fuel and stops running until it cools some. If the fuel was boiling the car will start to load up and run very rich and you will have to step on the gas and get the car moving to try and keep it running. And the wooden spacer helps the fuel boiling problem alot. Ron
Click to expand...

Hi Ron. It was definitely vapor locking. Engine would die and carbs were bone dry.
 
My Pro Street car has an Aeromotive electric pump. They are made for continuous street use and last a long time.

As far as starting after sitting a long period of time. I have a bone stock 50,000 mile '69 RR and wont install an electric pump on it. Yes it also has a dry float bowl when it sits for long periods of time. So before I start (only needed if it sits a 3-4 days or more) I fill the float bowl with approx 50cc gas with a small funnel in the float bowl vent. Pump throttle 4-5 times, car starts right up.
 
I've never considered running an electric along with a mechanical. I know most of them are vibration pumps. I assume if the electric fails, the mechanical will still work.
 
Have a electric carter pump with a carter mech pump on my 66 Satellite and a wire vibrated loose, car stopped in a half mile. Crawled under car put in back on and wrapped tape so it didn't happen again. Had one fail after 6 months sent it to carter and got a new one back. Have had the second carter on my car 30 years and 18k miles. The electric will push feul through the mech pump.
 
Last edited:
rcb said:
I've never considered running an electric along with a mechanical. I know most of them are vibration pumps. I assume if the electric fails, the mechanical will still work.
Click to expand...

Why even run the mech pump with an electric pump as now you have the fuel line running up to the eng and can pick up more heat in the fuel line. Dont have to do that with an all electric pump as I run my line up inside the pass wheelwell and thin into the reg on the fenderwell and right to the carb. The electric pump will push more then enough fuel as you dont have to add the mech pump with an electric and that way keep the fuel line away from eng heat. Myself I have been running the Holley electric pumps since the 70's on my street and race cars and I have never had one fail. But I do keep a brand new one in my trunk because you never know but a mech pump can also fail and I could easily change my electric pump on the road as I also always carry tools in my trunk. To each his own but since I run pump gas I do all I can to keep heat away from the fuel line with this cheap pump gas pf today. Ron
 
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