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Framing question

ESOXER

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So I've been renovating the house, and getting ready for drywall in the basement I'm finishing, I set my studs off the wall a bit for sprayfoam to get behind, one stud is pushed out bad, like real bad. Probably my mistake, any suggestions besides a beltsander for hours on end? I've also been looking in to creative ways of marking it, taping marker on a level. I'm thinking sawzall/circular saw then chisel method and finish with the belt. Thanks, it's embarrassing lol.
 
Electric plane makes quick work of it. I had to borrow my DAUGHTER'S when doing our custom shower to true a wall.
 
Bizarre story for ya though, somewhat related to the topic.
I paint for a living, used to have a side business doing minor repairs, etc.
Customer has a badly wrecked drywall corner. Banged it hard moving furniture or something.
I go to put a new corner bead on and notice that the wall is badly bowed from a crooked stud. I have to fix the drywall beside it at the corner anyway, so my plan is to cut away enough drywall to replace the bad stud, then put on new drywall to the corner.
I cut the drywall, and there buried inside was a perfectly straight stud. I removed the crooked stud and replaced it with the perfect one I found abandoned beside it. That same job I found a nice four foot level buried in the wall.
 
I'd knock it out but I screwed it together 3" deck screws and it's locked in with sprayfoam.
 
So they spray foamed out to the bow out in the stud ?
You can sawzall the top and bottom of the stud to cut the screws and hand saw the foam on each side to remove the bad stud
and replace with good stud but if the foam is out to the face of the bad stud you will need to shave it back.
Pictures could help with answers.
 
20210901_212248.jpg
4' across 2 other studs, only one that's pushed out. Also forgot, I have 12ga nmb running through it so I can't really pop it out.
Think I'll mark it close, saw chisel and sand it.
Tomorrow is another day
 
Nope, I could ask the shop teacher at school. Seems like alot of Amish work. I was thinking of that too.
 
Try this. Cut it in half with a sawzall, dig out the foam if needed and drive it back in. Take a short 2by and sister it as a gusset to hold it together. There is no bearing on the stud so you won’t hurt a thing. Done it many times.
 
Pop a chalk line top to bottom and cut the bow out.
And just to make sure are you saying the stud is bowing into the basement to prevent the sheet rock from running flat on the inside ?
 
Years ago I rocked a garage, the studs were a mess & I wanted it to look good... It's my garage dammit... I spent a few hours with a string line checking & shimming low spots... The one big high spot I used a sawzall & cut about 1/4-3/8" off & then was able to shim it like the rest of the studs... Oh, a couple packs of door/window shims are your friend....
 
Cut the screws off with a Sawzall, bash it with a sledge until even and toenail it in. If you need to, add a kicker in to hold it against the foam pressure until you toe nail (or tow screw) it.

So sayeth #41, ex-framer.
 
Seriously, you'd actually SAND a 2 x 4 that's being covered with drywall ?!?!?

Chalkline from the top to the bottom will give you the cut line. Sawsall would be best but an axe would work too! It doesn't have to be perfect. Forget sanding, just get it "close". Slap up your drywall and fagedaboutit!
 
Find the highest point, cut the 2 X 4 halfway through starting at the back with a sawsall.
cut a small wedge about 1/4" at the widest point and push the 2 X 4 back toward the wall
while pushing the wedge in until it's flat. Glue the wedge in place. Done!
 
I was thinking laser-and-sharpie a straight line for a sawsall...but the chalk line works better. Don't have to be pretty or perfect, just saw it out till its close. Drywall flex can take up to 1/4" or so if needed.

You could also plunge-cut with a circular saw if you don't have a sawsall.
 
Is it bowed out or is it straight? If it is bowed out and you can get to the back of the stud, cut the stud at the crown at the back up to about 1/2 inch from the front. Drive in a wedge at the back where you made the cut. As the wedge expands it will pull the stud back.
 
I dropped a nail in and snapped a line and Sawzalled out close to it then belt sanded to the line. I was over thinking it, I'm more of a machine shop guy not rough framing lol, that where my dad comes in, he's built houses for a living and has a body work degree but works in tool and die, so he's somewhere in between.
Thanks for the replies.
 
Sahara said:
It would be quickest and best just to knock it out and toe nail in a better one.

I've built a few home and this answer win the prize. IMHO

It's been spray foamed in place. Not only is that a bugger to get out, you've then broken the "seal" that the spray foam creates. I could shave the worst bowed stud in a fraction of the time you'd take to cut it out of the foam.
 
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