• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

fusible link

Your noted percentages and times are excruciatingly long in electrical equipment. Out of curiosity, why would consider using a fusable link rather than a more predictable fuse, be it a regular fuse, a time delay fuse or a current limiting fuse, for protection of a circuit or an individual component? How are you determining the available fault current and its supply voltage, be it AC or DC, and the obvious inductive or capacitive reactance constraints, without disclosing your application criteria?......unless cost is the driving factor.....
BOB RENTON
There are somewhat obsolete requirements the SAE still has in place for qualifying certain systems in certain applications. Have to be vague here, but there is a Load Dump test requirement in some applications and easily blowing a fuse is not acceptable.
I said the fusible link was NOT to protect electronics, but rather reduce the opportunity of a fire. DC systems is where the fusible link is specified for vehicles.
 
Last edited:
There are somewhat obsolete requirements the SAE still has in place for qualifying certain systems in certain applications. Have to be vague here, but there is a Load Dump test requirement in some applications and easily blowing a fuse is not acceptable.
I said the fusible link was NOT to protect electronics, but rather reduce the opportunity of a fire. DC systems is where the fusible link is specified for vehicles.

Thank you for the clarification....researching the subject a little, I found this explanation.....if it applicable...great, if not applicable, also great.....not trying to pry....but to just understand a little bit better.

The field winding of an alternator has a large inductance. When the vehicle battery is being charged, the alternator generates a large current, the magnitude of which is controlled by the current in the field winding. If the battery becomes disconnected while it is being charged the load on the alternator suddenly decreases. However, the vehicle's voltage regulator cannot quickly cause the field current to decrease sufficiently, so the alternator continues to generate a large current. This large current causes the voltage on the vehicle bus to increase significantly -- well above the normal and regulated level.
All the loads connected to the alternator see this high voltage spike. The strength of the spike depends on many factors including the speed at which the alternator is rotating and the current which was being supplied to the battery before it was disconnected. These spike may peak at as high as 120 V and may take up to 400 ms to decay.[1] This kind of a spike would damage many semiconductor devices, e.g. ECUs, that may be connected to the alternator. Special protection devices, such as TVS diodes, varistors which can withstand and absorb the energy of these spikes may be added to protect such semiconductor devices.
Various automotive standards such as ISO 7637-2 and SAE J1113-11 specify a standard shape of the load dump pulse against which automotive electronic components may be designed.
There can also be a smaller inductive spike due to the inductance of the stator windings. That may have a larger voltage, but it will be for a much shorter duration, as relatively little energy is stored in the inductance of these windings. Load dump can be more damaging because the alternator continues to generate power until the field current can decrease, so much more energy can be released.
BOB RENTON
 
Overthinking the fuse link actual and main mission. Not saying doesn't work for that, but is not the main goal on here, which is basically prevent a heavy short able to get in fire the wiring. Even with engine off! Hence why is NOT on alt side, aside what I told previously, being the batt the only source able to actually feed a short
 
Last edited:
Overthinking the fuse link actual and main mission. Not saying doesn't work for that, but is not the main goal on here, which is basically prevent a heavy short able to get in fire the wiring. Even with engine off! Hence why is NOT on alt side, aside what I told previously, being the only source able to actually feed a short

I've not over thought anything.....in your opinion, everything is related to the wiring or ammeter or bulkhead connections. Please show us your interpretation (with supporting cslcs) of the short circuit protection requirements to avoid a catastrophic failure of the wiring....assume zero resistance to ground or maximum available current available to the point of the fault in order to determine the size of the protection device.. With the engine OFF, no power is being generated by the alternator, therefore all energy (power) originates at the battery. Enlighten me......thanks
BOB RENTON
 
No way I'm gonna a become something so easy to understand and basic on a large useless discussion... sorry. I'm out.
 
Overthinking the fuse link actual and main mission. Not saying doesn't work for that, but is not the main goal on here, which is basically prevent a heavy short able to get in fire the wiring. Even with engine off! Hence why is NOT on alt side, aside what I told previously, being the batt the only source able to actually feed a short

I believe Nacho was just saying that its getting very deep talking about the basic fuse link. No need for anyone to get upset as we are just trying to help the poster. I guess Nacho means no need to get so technical over the fuse link. And I do not mean to offend anyone here but I think we all agree the fuse link is a protection system so the wiring dont burn up. Myself I have seen many fuse links burnt out over my 40 years in the field and I honestly dont know how long they take to burn out as they were already burnt out when I got the car. Many times I saw the J2 circuit get a short in it that caused the fuse link failure. I even had a shorted alt rotor burn the fuse link on my buddies Roadrunner as I traced the short all the way to the alt field. Since the J2 circuit is only protected by a fuse link it makes sense a short in it can cause the fuse link failure. It actually started to melt the wire in my buddies Roadrunner harness as I could trace the blue J2 wire right up to the alt field and see it was hot and starting to deform the insulation. Course I repaired the wires and put an alt on it for him. As I said earlier I have been using the fuse type like used in the newer cars PDC boxes on my 63 since I had a hard time finding the fuse link size I wanted and they have worked fine for 15 years so far. Ron
 
just noticed he quoted me while I was editing my reply where I forgott to mention the BATT is the only source to feed a short, so maybe he understood I told it was the alt althought I already mentioned the batt on a previous reply, so if following the thread it should be clear it could be a missed word and not a reason for a judgment or any extra explanation.

Anyway, I'm out to say anything else. Something so simple like a fuse link shouldn't go out of the hands to explain its function, just like the rest of fuses on the car, but able to hold some peaks, diff from regular fuses.

Ron, BTW, a 16 gauge fuse link can take up to 4-8 seconds to blown, depending on the circuit the short is happening ( distance, wire thickness ). It pretends to be the weakest link of all the car system to get/catch all the heat the short causes up to blown ( just like a regular fuse!! ), instead distribute the heat allong the wire circuit is happening, melting all around. So try to imagine the time will take a 12 gauge fuse link and how much of the shorted circuit could catch fire.
 
Last edited:
I believe Nacho was just saying that its getting very deep talking about the basic fuse link. No need for anyone to get upset as we are just trying to help the poster. I guess Nacho means no need to get so technical over the fuse link. And I do not mean to offend anyone here but I think we all agree the fuse link is a protection system so the wiring dont burn up. Myself I have seen many fuse links burnt out over my 40 years in the field and I honestly dont know how long they take to burn out as they were already burnt out when I got the car. Many times I saw the J2 circuit get a short in it that caused the fuse link failure. I even had a shorted alt rotor burn the fuse link on my buddies Roadrunner as I traced the short all the way to the alt field. Since the J2 circuit is only protected by a fuse link it makes sense a short in it can cause the fuse link failure. It actually started to melt the wire in my buddies Roadrunner harness as I could trace the blue J2 wire right up to the alt field and see it was hot and starting to deform the insulation. Course I repaired the wires and put an alt on it for him. As I said earlier I have been using the fuse type like used in the newer cars PDC boxes on my 63 since I had a hard time finding the fuse link size I wanted and they have worked fine for 15 years so far. Ron

Without some knowledge of short circuit protection, HOW can the one make an EDUCATED determination of how to protect the equipment/vehicle involved? By a seat of the pants "guess"??? Or some other method of determination...."let's try this and see what happens"....
From a prior posting (#27)
"16 gauge fuse link can take up to 4-8 seconds to blown, (which is it...4 seconds or 8 seconds...the energy that could flow is an exponential function) depending on the circuit the short is happening ( distance, wire thickness ). It pretends to be the weakest link of all the car system to get/catch all the heat the short causes up to blown ( just like a regular fuse!! ), instead distribute the heat allong the wire circuit is happening, melting all around. So try to imagine the time will take a 12 gauge fuse link and how much of the shorted circuit could catch fire". (a guess at best....please provide a time and energy value to accurately size the link).
The above comment is speculation at best....without any actual figures to substantiate the information. Too much "guessing" especially relating to someone elses property (vehicle). In fact its AMPERAGE related.... But, opinions, unsubstantiated or not, are OK....just not for me or my vehicles. Just my opinion of course....
BOB RENTON
 
Without some knowledge of short circuit protection, HOW can the one make an EDUCATED determination of how to protect the equipment/vehicle involved? By a seat of the pants "guess"??? Or some other method of determination...."let's try this and see what happens"....
From a prior posting (#27)
"16 gauge fuse link can take up to 4-8 seconds to blown, (which is it...4 seconds or 8 seconds...the energy that could flow is an exponential function) depending on the circuit the short is happening ( distance, wire thickness ). It pretends to be the weakest link of all the car system to get/catch all the heat the short causes up to blown ( just like a regular fuse!! ), instead distribute the heat allong the wire circuit is happening, melting all around. So try to imagine the time will take a 12 gauge fuse link and how much of the shorted circuit could catch fire". (a guess at best....please provide a time and energy value to accurately size the link).
The above comment is speculation at best....without any actual figures to substantiate the information. Too much "guessing" especially relating to someone elses property (vehicle). In fact its AMPERAGE related.... But, opinions, unsubstantiated or not, are OK....just not for me or my vehicles. Just my opinion of course....
BOB RENTON


Well you lost me on just what you are trying to say here ? Are you quoting me saying I have no knowledge of the electrical system ? I dont need to guess as I tried to keep my reply simple and not offend anyone as I said. No need to act like you are a rocket scientist over the fuse link. I know plenty about the electrical system but try not to upset anyone with a simple honest reply. Or I can also be a rocket scientist if need be. Yea current flow amps burns out wires no ****. Ron
 
just noticed he quoted me while I was editing my reply where I forgott to mention the BATT is the only source to feed a short, so maybe he understood I told it was the alt althought I already mentioned the batt on a previous reply, so if following the thread it should be clear it could be a missed word and not a reason for a judgment or any extra explanation.

Anyway, I'm out to say anything else. Something so simple like a fuse link shouldn't go out of the hands to explain its function, just like the rest of fuses on the car, but able to hold some peaks, diff from regular fuses.

Ron, BTW, a 16 gauge fuse link can take up to 4-8 seconds to blown, depending on the circuit the short is happening ( distance, wire thickness ). It pretends to be the weakest link of all the car system to get/catch all the heat the short causes up to blown ( just like a regular fuse!! ), instead distribute the heat allong the wire circuit is happening, melting all around. So try to imagine the time will take a 12 gauge fuse link and how much of the shorted circuit could catch fire.


Thanks Nacho for the info as I was just kinda joking about how long they take to burn out meaning I never timed one with a watch while it was burning out. But I should have said it different I guess. Thanks , Ron
 
Thanks Nacho for the info as I was just kinda joking about how long they take to burn out meaning I never timed one with a watch while it was burning out. But I should have said it different I guess. Thanks , Ron

I have been present of fuse links blowns, couple of times. Can't say the exact time, but around that. Maybe a bit shorter... but around that.
 
Once on my own car I had an accidental short on a 16 gauge line ( can't recall if it was the alt field line ? )... or maybe it was a 14 gauge line? Can't recall, it was loooong time ago, but manipulating the wire I was working on got in touch with chassis around on an peeled area and for a couple of seconds ( maybe it could be 3 seconds? ) the wire was grounding, the 16 gauge fuse link got heat enough to distort its own wire cover, but didn't blown. The little smoke coming out from the fuse link warned me in fact some wire around I was working it was shorting somewhere.

I think was even able to heard the fuse link cover boiling LOL. But fuse link hold the short for that small amount of time. A regular fuse was blown instantly. That fuse link is still on my car working. The wire I was working on kept safe.
 
Last edited:
Well you lost me on just what you are trying to say here ? Are you quoting me saying I have no knowledge of the electrical system ? I dont need to guess as I tried to keep my reply simple and not offend anyone as I said. No need to act like you are a rocket scientist over the fuse link. I know plenty about the electrical system but try not to upset anyone with a simple honest reply. Or I can also be a rocket scientist if need be. Yea current flow amps burns out wires no ****. Ron

My comments were of a general nature NOT directed to you, as I have no clue as to your capabilities or knowledge of electrical systems and their designs. My comment was based of the methodology used to select a fuse device to protect an electrical system. One other contributor to the discussion uses vague terms: maybe, can't say, and similar. How can one make an accurate determination based on nothing but feelings? Personally, l try to be more specific as to a solution. I also believe we (me) can express our feelings without the use of vulgarities.
BOB RENTON
 
My comments were of a general nature NOT directed to you, as I have no clue as to your capabilities or knowledge of electrical systems and their designs. My comment was based of the methodology used to select a fuse device to protect an electrical system. One other contributor to the discussion uses vague terms: maybe, can't say, and similar. How can one make an accurate determination based on nothing but feelings? Personally, l try to be more specific as to a solution. I also believe we (me) can express our feelings without the use of vulgarities.
BOB RENTON


No problem then as I thought why are you saying that to me but if not then I appoliqize as I agree no sense in getting nasty. Take care , Ron
 
Use the original gauge and length of wire for the fuse link, some mad scientist at Chrysler already had done his home work years ago to determine the required wire for that purpose as by original design.
If adding any additional electrical equipment should be wired separate and have its own separate fuse.
All in a perfect world scenario obviously but thats the best way to do it.

All you need to know about a fusible link:
https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data Sheets/Littelfuse PDFs/Fusible_Link_FAQ.pdf
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top