This year has been incredible
- Thread starter bobtile
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The mark of a good driver! 
VFilms
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As Ed said... a good driver and a great engine builder. Congrats, seems like you had fun.
440Coronet500
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Congratulations, that's what these cars are all about! You going through the engine to take a look? 440'
bobtile
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Spun rod bearing
440Coronet500
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Sorry to hear that, you'll get it fixed I'm sure! 440'
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Any plans for "upgrade" (If possible?)
cdr
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That SUCKS !!!!! very sorry to hear this GRRRRRRRRRR
Time to upgrade oil system?
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You're hard on ****! 
bobtile
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It's a stock block.
Can't really make any more power.
I am upgrading my machine shop for sure.
The engine I'm putting In now is from my old GTX.
We'll see what it does in a car that is 500 lbs. Lighter and has a chassis...
Previous best was 11.20@ 121 in the GTX
cdr
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What was the weight of the X
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back to engine builders jail
good move going to a different builder
hopefully, it goes better (& quicker/with quality) with the new guys
sorry to hear about the spun bearing
better than a broken crank, but still not fun
what kind/brand of rods (& bearings) are/were you running ?
what kind of clearances ?
do you have a girdle on the block, if so which/whos ?
does it have aftermarket caps, if so which/whos ?
refresh our/or my memory, if you wish
or don't
disclosure;
I'm not picking on you, just curiosity
partially why I liked running aluminum rods for so long
(I ran Childs & Alberts (rods & bearings) or Venolia stuff for years, at way higher RPM
& never spun bearings or broke any rods or crankshafts, at all)
if you're rebuilding it so often, why the hell not ?
seems like they absorb a lot of the shock-load & beating too
replace the rods every season or 150+ passes
(or give or take, yeah you can't run 500+ passes on them, but you aren't now anyway
a $1,000 in Alum. rods is better than, yet another $1,000+ in machine work
& another $1,000+ in parts & another 6-9 months (to a year+) in builders jail)
many of them do have pinned rod bearings, in many cases
the ones I ran always did
(much lighter rotating mass, but larger mass too, for clearances too, shouldn't be
a big issues stock stroke 440, maybe a lil' extra grinding)
I haven't run them in years now, I don't know who's are best now
or what they have
Not sure
why so many racecars owners & race engines
or race engine builders, don't still use Aluminum rods ?
when many professional levels still do
also;
in many cases even if an alum. rod does break
it doesn't always window the block, as often etc.
not at the levels, we are using them
(TF & FC is a completely different story)
even my old T/S combos, big cid builds @ 11,000 rpm
didn't spin bearings or break ****, like some here I read
carry on, just thinking out loud again
& good luck Bob
Last edited:
67charger383
Well-Known Member
Awesome Charger!
bobtile
Well-Known Member
They were brand new eagle rods, cleavite bearings, all coated. New crank and billet steel caps. Block half filled.back to engine builders jail
good move going to a different builder
hopefully, it goes better (& quicker/with quality) with the new guys
sorry to hear about the spun bearing
better than a broken crank, but still not fun
what kind/brand of rods (& bearings) are/were you running ?
what kind of clearances ?
do you have a girdle on the block, if so which/whos ?
does it have aftermarket caps, if so which/whos ?
refresh our/or my memory, if you wish
or don't
disclosure;
I'm not picking on you, just curiosity
partially why I liked running aluminum rods for so long
(I ran Childs & Alberts (rods & bearings) or Venolia stuff for years, at way higher RPM
& never spun bearings or broke any rods or crankshafts, at all)
if you're rebuilding it so often, why the hell not ?
seems like they absorb a lot of the shock-load & beating too
replace the rods every season or 150+ passes
(or give or take, yeah you can't run 500+ passes on them, but you aren't now anyway
a $1,000 in Alum. rods is better than, yet another $1,000+ in machine work
& another $1,000+ in parts & another 6-9 months (to a year+) in builders jail)
many of them do have pinned rod bearings, in many cases
the ones I ran always did
(much lighter rotating mass, but larger mass too, for clearances too, shouldn't be
a big issues stock stroke 440, maybe a lil' extra grinding)
I haven't run them in years now, I don't know who's are best now
or what they have
Not sure
why so many racecars owners & race engines
or race engine builders, don't still use Aluminum rods ?
when many professional levels still do
also;
in many cases even if an alum. rod does break
it doesn't always window the block, as often etc.
not at the levels, we are using them
(TF & FC is a completely different story)
even my old T/S combos, big cid builds @ 11,000 rpm
didn't spin bearings or break ****, like some here I read
carry on, just thinking out loud again
& good luck Bob
No cap walk visible.
Till now I have only removed main caps. Those bearings are fine...
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No offense, not a fan of eagle rods. I would put Molnar rods in it. I love his quality control and tolerance standards.
The rest of combo sounds as bulletproof as a stock block can be.
The rest of combo sounds as bulletproof as a stock block can be.
What oil pan? If the pick-up goes dry, bad things happen. Wheelies can aggravate the problem.
Doug
Doug
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