back to engine builders jail
good move going to a different builder
hopefully, it goes better (& quicker/with quality) with the new guys
sorry to hear about the spun bearing
better than a broken crank, but still not fun
what kind/brand of rods (& bearings) are/were you running ?
what kind of clearances ?
do you have a girdle on the block, if so which/whos ?
does it have aftermarket caps, if so which/whos ?
refresh our/or my memory, if you wish
or don't
disclosure;
I'm not picking on you, just curiosity
partially why I liked running aluminum rods for so long
(
I ran Childs & Alberts (rods & bearings) or Venolia stuff for years, at way higher RPM
& never spun bearings or broke any rods or crankshafts, at all)
if you're rebuilding it so often, why the hell not ?
seems like they absorb a lot of the shock-load & beating too
replace the rods every season or 150+ passes
(
or give or take, yeah you can't run 500+ passes on them, but you aren't now anyway
a $1,000 in Alum. rods is better than, yet another $1,000+ in machine work
& another $1,000+ in parts & another 6-9 months (to a year+) in builders jail)
many of them do have pinned rod bearings, in many cases
the ones I ran always did
(
much lighter rotating mass, but larger mass too, for clearances too, shouldn't be
a big issues stock stroke 440, maybe a lil' extra grinding)
I haven't run them in years now, I don't know who's are best now
or what they have
Not sure
why so many racecars owners & race engines
or race engine builders, don't still use Aluminum rods ?
when many professional levels still do
also;
in many cases
even if an alum. rod
does break
it doesn't always window the block, as often etc.
not at the levels, we are using them
(TF & FC is a completely different story)
even my old T/S combos, big cid builds @ 11,000 rpm
didn't spin bearings or break ****, like some here I read
carry on, just thinking out loud again
& good luck Bob