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Starting engine plus setting timing on my 383 HP

Steven Bowers

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For the past 3 months I’ve been detailing my 69 Charger….pulled tranny, drivetrain, and about everything I could out of the engine compartment and off of engine…..overall the engine and everything else looks pretty good for not pulling the engine…..Now I’m asking for some input as to the proper steps to restart my 383 HP engine back up….I did mark all my spark plug wires so I know where they go…..I guess my biggest issue is finding top dead center….and if I should use a drill to turn the oil pump….I’ve never done this before and am asking for the proper procedures to make sure this engine is going to start….it has the stock 4 barrel Carter AVS on it….it ran before i took everything off….but that’s the easy part….all comments will be greatly appreciated….Steve
 
How long has engine sat without starting? A couple months... no need to prime. Did you pull distributor? If so, did you mark where the rotor was pointing? If not, then you will need to find TDC. If you didn't pull distributor, put wires back on in order, give it some gas n w a fully charged battery, start it. If it's stock, most of the time they were set to 10° BTDC. Which is set while engine is running, not while off.
 
Did you rebuild the engine and would this be the initial start up ?
If you just detailed the engine the oil should be everywhere it needs to be already.
 
I’m about to fire up my 383 soon too. Just make sure all the wires, plug wires and such are correct. Getting TDC and setting timing will come in right after….but take the time to check your work
 
Thanks, this is not a rebuild….just a cosmetic job….all new gaskets, painting, new fluids….etc…..my biggest concern is I moved the crankshaft 180 from where the engine stopped when I turned it off before starting this worked…had to paint the pulley, balancer and bolts…I’ve got everything marked and took lots of photos….I’m not sure by moving it if I lost the true starting position….
 
Did you have the distributor out during the refresh ?
Oiling wise you should be good as long as you didn’t mess with the oil pump.
 
Did you have the distributor out during the refresh ?
Oiling wise you should be good as long as you didn’t mess with the oil pump.
I took the distributor out….yes I also took off oil pump to repaint…I did not rotate the shaft….just put it back on…the distributor went right back in the slot…my main concern is I rotated the crankshaft 180 to paint the pulley, balancer and bolts….
 
I took the distributor out….yes I also took off oil pump to repaint…I did not rotate the shaft….just put it back on…the distributor went right back in the slot…my main concern is I rotated the crankshaft 180 to paint the pulley, balancer and bolts….
You will need to find top dead center on the compression stroke and get the distributor pointing back to #1 and I would prime the the oil pump before putting the distributor back in.
If you know you only rotated the engine 180 can you go backwards 180 and bring it back to TDC.
 
You will need to find top dead center on the compression stroke and get the distributor pointing back to #1 and I would prime the the oil pump before putting the distributor back in.
If you know you only rotated the engine 180 can you go backwards 180 and bring it back to TDC.
Thanks, am I to understand that if I would put my finger in the spark plug hole and rotate the crank and wait till it pops my finger out that would be TDC…..this would be the 1st cylinder on the driver side of the engine…..
 
Thanks, am I to understand that if I would put my finger in the spark plug hole and rotate the crank and wait till it pops my finger out that would be TDC…..this would be the 1st cylinder on the driver side of the engine…..
Correct.
And make sure “0” with the timing mark on the harmonic balancer.
 
Correct.
And make sure “0” with the timing mark on the harmonic balancer.
Fine, with that done what position would I have the distributor rotor pointed…or does it not make any difference…I have plenty of photos to get the actual distributor located close to its original position….I don’t have the equipment to tune my engine….I’ll most likely take it to my mechanic to fine tune it….
 
The rotor needs to point as close to the #1 plug wire on the cap as you can get it. You probably will have to seat the distributor a few times to get the rotor pointed correctly as it rotates on the way to be seated because of the slanted gear. This is one time I like Chevy's distributor as you either have it right or your 180 out.
I must tell you I have a Mallory uni-lite electronic distributor…does the rotor still need point to #1 plug wire…I appreciate all of your help…..
 
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The rotor needs to point as close to the #1 plug wire on the cap as you can get it. You probably will have to seat the distributor a few times to get the rotor pointed correctly as it rotates on the way to be seated because of the slanted gear. This is one time I like Chevy's distributor as you either have it right or your 180 out.

Use a magnet to pick up the gear and rotate one tooth at a time
 
The rotor needs to point as close to the #1 plug wire on the cap as you can get it. You probably will have to seat the distributor a few times to get the rotor pointed correctly as it rotates on the way to be seated because of the slanted gear. This is one time I like Chevy's distributor as you either have it right or your 180 out.
Huh? On Mopar 383s he's gonna be in or 180* out, no?
 
I rotated the balancer to TDC “0” and put my distributor back in and the rotor is now about 7:30 to 8:00 position…..if I understand correctly this is the #1 spark plug wire which it is showing me on the distributor cap….Is This Correct….please let me know…..
 
I rotated the balancer to TDC “0” and put my distributor back in and the rotor is now about 7:30 to 8:00 position…..if I understand correctly this is the #1 spark plug wire which it is showing me on the distributor cap….Is This Correct….please let me know…..
If everything was installed the factory way, with the slot on top of the oil pump driveshaft near-parallel to the crankshaft centerline (front-to-back), the #1 tower is closer to 5:00 when looking toward the driver side--
djfjjk.jpg


**With the rotor pointed directly center of tower#1, the ignition timing will be at
0°....it MAY not want to fire up and run with no advance.
There's two things you can do:
--Twist the distributor CW as the engine attempts to start. If you don't have a remote start switch you'll need a helper.
--"Static time" the engine. This is where you set the damper somewhere between 10°-20° BTDC, and then point the rotor at the center of tower #1.
I prefer the static time method, but either way a final timing adjustment will be required once it's running, to get it back to where you want it...
 
Last edited:
If everything was installed the factory way, with the slot on top of the oil pump driveshaft near-parallel to the crankshaft centerline (front-to-back), the #1 tower is closer to 5:00 when looking toward the driver side--
View attachment 1170826

**With the rotor pointed directly center of tower#1, the ignition timing will be at
0°....it MAY not want to fire up and run with no advance.
There's two things you can do:
--Twist the distributor CW as the engine attempts to start. If you don't have a remote start switch you'll need a helper.
--"Static time" the engine. This is where you set the damper somewhere between 10°-20° BTDC, and then point the rotor at the center of tower #1.
I prefer the static time method, but either way a final timing adjustment will be required once it's running, to get it back to where you want it...
It is to my understanding that the #1 plug wire is in the 7:00 to 8:00 position from factory….I never took the distributor drive gear out…..my past mechanic set it up and it ran fine….I’ve seen some post that said the 383 came this way….the #1 plug wire lines up with the rotor in the 7:30 position now …..the way I rotated it on TDC “0” on the balancer it can only go the way it is or 180 degrees opposite which I know can’t be correct….I’m no timing expert….that’s why I’m asking the forum guys to help me out….please advise me if the setup I have now will work…. Thanks, Steve
 
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