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Car trailers sturdy enough to haul a B body.

I've noticed, once I sold them for a few years, that the Midwestern-built trailers are all either a full diamond-tread steel floor or a full wood floor, and usually with a dovetail/beavertail, or whatever you call it in your part of the country. This allows for use other than hauling only a vehicle (sod, flagstone/landscaping stone, mowers, etc). Most car haulers will have a C-channel perimeter frame with a wrap tongue. a few have angle iron.

California trailers tend to have an open floor with flat steel areas for the cargo tires to roll, allowing only for a car, truck, or a wide tractor to be hauled. Not so many with the dovetail. Angle-iron frames seem to be predominate. It's a regional thing, to be sure.

As far as Canada or the East Coast goes, what is popular for a car hauler configuration there?
 
18 ft is plenty.
I prefer a metal deck, I sold trailers for a few years, the metal deck seems to tie everything together better.
furycamper.jpg
 
I like both metal and wood decks. Wood eventually needs replacing, is the only real drawback. My trailer (the one that got stolen in 2015!) was a 16' wood deck with a 3' diamond-tread dovetail, for a 19' 3" total load area. Four "D"-rings plus the "C"-channel frame meant I could hook anywhere and tie down securely. Mine looked much like yours, other than the floor difference. Looks like you have a nice one.

Yes, 18' is enough trailer for the vast majority of vehicle hauling, I agree.
 
patrick66 said:
I like both metal and wood decks. Wood eventually needs replacing, is the only real drawback. My trailer (the one that got stolen in 2015!) was a 16' wood deck with a 3' diamond-tread dovetail, for a 19' 3" total load area. Four "D"-rings plus the "C"-channel frame meant I could hook anywhere and tie down securely. Mine looked much like yours, other than the floor difference. Looks like you have a nice one.

Yes, 18' is enough trailer for the vast majority of vehicle hauling, I agree.
Click to expand...

The wood decks are a must if you think you might be hauling a tractor or equipment, or dragging a vehicle on with no tires.
As far as the length, 18 ft will fit a full size 4 door pickup with an 8 ft bed, most car guys wouldn't need more.
The only down side to having a nice trailer is having people want to borrow it.
 
I don't have a car trailer yet but I do haul a 19' boat around and it has a hyd surge brake sys, I dont think i will ever pull a trailer that doesn't. The boat weighs about 2500#, I know its less than a car but I you hardly know its back there during braking. The harder you brake the pull veh the harder the trailer brakes and it's so smooth. You don't have to worry about wiring issues either. The other thing I like is if your trailer ever comes off the hitch the brake away sys engages and lock the trailer brakes so it doesn't pass you on the highway. The only time I could for see and issue is if you tried to back up a steep incline without a lock out mechanism, that might cause the brakes to engage, I've never had that happen but I'm sure it could. Food for thought.
 
I paid around a grand for my trailer, many many years ago. Double rail 2x3 tubing both sides, multiple crossmembers, and a good strong tongue. I've had to paint it a couple times.
Looking at what is available on the west coast, and their prices, I doubt I would take five grand for it. I SURE wouldn't trade straight across for that new carson.
The only drawback on mine is the fairly small tires.... but they haven't been a real problem for 20 years or so.
I suppose if I wanted to, or needed to, I could finish filling in the open space and weld on some stake holes.... but I bought a cheap box truck that can do anything of that sort that I need done (and it can pull my trailer without knowing it's there.)
 
I have an early 2000's Carson Deluxe full diamond plate 18' trailer. It's solid. I've dismantled cars on it!

Tires are a PIA where I live.
 
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Kern Dog said:
I'm looking to buy a car hauler trailer. I have a habit of finding derelict or classic cars and have rented dollies and trailers for far too long.
There are a LOT of options so I am trying to make sense of all of it.
I will be towing with my 2007 Ram 1500 regular cab 2wd truck. Maybe on rare occasions, I'd use my 75 W200 Power Wagon.
I would prefer a used trailer but am open to whatever I can find. I am not in a hurry but I would like to have one as soon as I can find something that fits my needs.
I have no interest in buying another truck to tow with.
A buddy has tried to sell me his cobbled trailer and I have been as gentle as I can in telling him that I want something bigger. I want one sturdy enough to haul a B body or even a pickup truck if need be. It would be stupid to buy a 14 or 16 footer and then need to rent or borrow a longer one for a bigger car.
The ones I see with wood decks are cheaper but I think I want a steel deck. The dovetail design looks appealing. Electric brakes are cheaper than hydraulic. Are they good enough?
I'd like stake pockets so I could use the trailer for more than just cars.

Who is willing to chime in with some thoughts?
Click to expand...
I bought a used 16 foot Master Tow, only paid $2000 for it. Have had it now 13 years. Absolutely no problems, Have pulled it at 75MPH w/66 on back. Remember 10% of weight should be on tongue, And get a weight distribution hitch!!! Aluminum trailers are great but big money. Probably x2 of steel. My deck is solid, did not want an open. I also bolted two 6 foot E-Tracks near the wheel wells so it can also be used as a utility trailer. Use to drive Semi in the lower 48 so have a lot of straps for that purpose. I get 14-15 at interstate speed 65-70 behind my Dakota.

Babes cafe on way to Valley 2018.jpg Had to tow Curtis Lumber Sept 2011.JPG headed to Valley 10.70's.jpg
 
Free shipping to CA ??

:D
 
Trailers have gone out of sight in GA now. I sold my 20' 12,000 LB trailer this summer for $1000 more than I paid for it in 2006. As far as the floor goes a good wood floor will last a long time if you take care of it. Every other year I would pressure wash mine and then after it dried out good I would coat it with Thompsons water seal. Looked as good the day I sold it as it did new.
 
I thought the same thing.
 
I've got a carson dovetail like that, the fenders are low enough to open the doors it drives on easy but mine has the diamond plate deck, I added more d rings to the middle and both ends , I prefer a metal deck , you don't have to linseed oil it every year and I don't get slivers in my shoulder when I slide under to tie it down
 
I used to have a great all steel open trailer (JB brand from Indiana, custom built to my size/specs ~year 1996. It was a 16' steel OPEN CENTER plated bed, 20' total length, maximum width between fenders (82") so that my extra wide rims/tires can drive through it; removable fenders, 30" rear dovetail and long straight pull-out ramps, 4-wheel brakes, small front flush storage compartment (for straps, etc.). BEST features for me, as I planned... OPEN CENTER so that I could WORK UNDER THE CAR if needed, as well as total 20' overall length so that it FITS INSIDE THE GARAGE (21' depth) with my car on it (1970 Challenger). When my racing days had to be put on-hold for a few years (family health and $$$ matters), the car sat on it indefinitely (inside my garage)... until I decided sell it to a good friend as he was routinely borrowing it... and I could borrow it back if ever needed. Then it got stolen from him as he kept it outside (although chained)! SO NOW... as family matters and finances have gotten better, I'm back to racing and really would like to get another trailer of my own. MUST have: OPEN CENTER, 20' total length, maximum width 82" between removable fenders, and rear dovetail (~30-36"). I'll buy NEW (custom) if I have to, but am looking for a decent used one if out there. My car is drivable, but I'd prefer to trailer it.
 
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