Don't swap in a modern engine or efi for driveability

Fullthrottle303 said:

It drastically decreases the rpm's you're running down the interstate. This keeps you below stall speed on your converter, therefore it is slipping as you're driving. This is the reason for lockup converters.

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HawkRod said:

OK, I got it now! Yes, if you have a high stall torque converter you might drop RPM below the stall speed. The gear vendor change is not huge at .78 to 1, but I actually have this issue now in my 73. I threw in a torque converter that has a 3000 RP stall speed. I will be swapping back to a more reasonable stall speed converter very soon.

Having said that, I am pleased with the GV so far.

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Michael_ said:

I often read or see people saying that modern engines (ls, gen3 hemi etc.) or retrofitting efi gives them so much better (daily) driveability
and use this as a reason for the swap.

I really can't understand this. I've been daily driving old fashioned carbureted cars (even with manual operated carb choke) since i started driving
and no matter if short distance city driving or long distance trips, i absolutely NEVER had an issue of any kind with them.

I also drove a modern 2017 challenger hellcat and i can't really see an improvement in driveability with the modern drivetrain.

I mean is it that hard to pump the throttle a few times before starting when the car has been sitting for a while?
Or to pull the choke by hand if its a manually operated choke? I dont think so.
For the bit of hassle you save, you add a ton of complex electronics on top that are no fun to work on with a new engine.

And again, i just completed a nearly 600 miles trip with my 72 cutlass supreme (that still has it's original 350 olds rocket)...

View attachment 1140158

Every fool could replicate that!

So my advice when it comes to swapping in a modern drivetrain or efi for improved driveability is: dont do it.
Of course other people might have a different opinion but in mine its just a waste of time and money AND makes things unnecessarily complex.

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440 PHIXX said:

I’m old. I don’t like the sound of any of the “new” V8’s. With variable valve timing, they all idle like police cars. I’ll forsake the low end torque, to keep my rumpity rump 440’s.

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BeepBeepRR said:

As some of you may know I just recently pulled a 4.8 LS out of a 68 Cutlass 442 clone to swap it for a Corvette all Aluminum 5.7. The swap was already done I just replaced what he already had. But in the process gained a few parts. Like a 1968 Cutlass 4 core radiator a Quick Fuel 750 carb. He wanted to go EFI so I slapped a Sniper kit on it. The car ran decent but was not through the learning stage. I told him he needed to drive it so the Sniper would learn. Its been 2 weeks since I completed it and he was ecstatic about the amount of power compared to the 4.8. This was the only modern engine I have swapped over.

But on the reliability of a carbed car only depends on the owners ability to keep it tuned. Not everyone is mechanically inclined and to them EFI is easier to deal with. I think its more of a want than a need. The thought process is that it will run and drive like a modern car they can just get in it and drive across the country. And some people just get sick of replacing the same old damn parts that always break. Take the damn Orange ECU for instance. Only lasted 2 years. Does everyone carry a second ECU with them? Modern times people want ease of use. THey would have blown a brain gasket if they had to live through the 60's and 70's. 100k on a car was a death sentence. If they made it that far. Look at the Odometer in your classic ride. Most are well below 100k because at some point they became unreliable.

And by the way. The OP picture looks like it could have been taken in 1977 lol[/QUOTE How is 300k
Very nice amswer.

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Cojohnso1 said:

I agree. I had even a more immediate decision. I had an opportunity for a new Gen III hemi. (6.2 non supercharged.) For a possible swap out for my very non numbers matching (But period correct 440) in a very decent street driver '69 GTX. I investigated for about 3 hours. It came down to.

"Let me get this straight?" I am to spend $10g on a newer engine option that will also require wiring, motor mount/K-frame, bellhousing, clutch, exhaust header/manifold updates (Not included in engine price.) Pull a very decent running 440. All to gain 100 HP? And lose some low-end torque and the classic sound of the 440?

P.S. I am very capable of screwing up something that doesn't need fixing?

"Think I'll pass. A "No brainer"

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Cojohnso1 said:

I agree. I had even a more immediate decision. I had an opportunity for a new Gen III hemi. (6.2 non supercharged.) For a possible swap out for my very non numbers matching (But period correct 440) in a very decent street driver '69 GTX. I investigated for about 3 hours. It came down to.

"Let me get this straight?" I am to spend $10g on a newer engine option that will also require wiring, motor mount/K-frame, bellhousing, clutch, exhaust header/manifold updates (Not included in engine price.) Pull a very decent running 440. All to gain 100 HP? And lose some low-end torque and the classic sound of the 440?

P.S. I am very capable of screwing up something that doesn't need fixing?

"Think I'll pass. A "No brainer"

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440 Charger said:

Its all what you want to do.

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Cojohnso1 said:

I agree. I had even a more immediate decision. I had an opportunity for a new Gen III hemi. (6.2 non supercharged.) For a possible swap out for my very non numbers matching (But period correct 440) in a very decent street driver '69 GTX. I investigated for about 3 hours. It came down to.

"Let me get this straight?" I am to spend $10g on a newer engine option that will also require wiring, motor mount/K-frame, bellhousing, clutch, exhaust header/manifold updates (Not included in engine price.) Pull a very decent running 440. All to gain 100 HP? And lose some low-end torque and the classic sound of the 440?

P.S. I am very capable of screwing up something that doesn't need fixing?

"Think I'll pass. A "No brainer"

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Cojohnso1 said:

Of course it is. But "Should?" That's really the question of this thread. And incite/recommendations. Now had that been a Gen II Hemi? Almost a must. But in fairness to transparency? I have never pulled a healthy engine. And that's at the heart of my recent adventure.

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440 PHIXX said:

Sounds like Rock and Roll.

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Fullthrottle303 said:

Could you explain how you shift it when driving? Do you use the split in every gear or usually just at high cruising speeds?

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Michael_ said:

Since your discussing it right now anyway: Is there a lockup converter available for the 727 transmission?

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cdr said:

I combined old & new,512 cid, Hilborn stacks EFI, a518 overdrive lock up converter, big hydr roller has 12" vacuum in gear, street car, cold ac, drive it anywhere, even to the track, EFI is WAY better than any carb PERIOD ..........., I tuned my carb & it ran great, EFI runs AWESOME, not going to argue about it. Data logging , look at all the info on my dash

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