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Carb gasket thickness

Like said above. It can't evaporate faster than the fuel pump can refill the bowls with the engine running.
Doesn't matter what the fuel is, that just makes no sense.
I would do like the other guy said and when it stalls again, remove the air cleaner and work the accelerator pump to check for either accelerator pump problem or no fuel in the bowls.
 
The problem is vapor lock, not fuel evaporation from the carb. You need to figure out why it is vapor locking, tempurature or pressure, or both.
 
Car has stock 5/16 fuel lines are brand new. And i’m trying keep my car stock. Motor was rebuild with 383 Magnum camshaft like 68 Roadrunner 383 high performance camshaft.
 
I'm still running the factory heated choke thermostat inside the intake manifold after doing highway run and idling in driveway for 30 mins, fuel evaporate away in carb, when tap the pedal its dies, engine temp reads 190
At idle the fuel pump at 5 to 6 lbs should be replacing any fuel used or evaporating while running at idle.
Fuel perk or evaporation normally is a problem after the car is shut off.
Check your filter , If your pump is keeping up while driving it should be fine. Float levels or possible sticking float. pump the throttle while looking in the carb and ck for a decent pump shot also.
 
At idle the fuel pump at 5 to 6 lbs should be replacing any fuel used or evaporating while running at idle.
Fuel perk or evaporation normally is a problem after the car is shut off.
Check your filter , If your pump is keeping up while driving it should be fine. Float levels or possible sticking float. pump the throttle while looking in the carb and ck for a decent pump shot also.
I can restart car after car dies within 5 seconds and stay idling, until I put drive gear and its dies and restarted it again stay idling and put into 1st gear still running if keep pedal down 1/4"
 
Timing is ?

Possible Vacuum leak

Vacuum / Idle mixture screws setting

Is your choke plate opening all the way after engine is warmed up
 
Timing is ?

Possible Vacuum leak

Vacuum / Idle mixture screws setting

Is your choke plate opening all the way after engine is warmed up
Timing is initial 12 + Mechanical advance 26= total timing is 38

No vacuum leak because 14 in/hg vacuum because of camshaft not bone stock cam, Motor was rebuild with 383 Magnum camshaft like 68 Roadrunner 383 high performance camshaft. Engine shake very slightly when its idling

Choke opens all way up
 
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I started my car today in my garage all warm up 185 degree, factory choke didn't open all the way at idle, not open even 1/2 halfway, so running too rich if choke not open all the way at idle, accelerator pump gives very nice squirt.
 
One of the things I listed based on your last description

Glad you double checked , initially you said it was opening all the way

With car running at idle

See if your choke pull off is functional , should pull in the choke linkage with vacuum hose hooked up at idle

Choke thermostat - Getting heat thru intake manifold at operating temperature
 
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I started my car today in my garage all warm up 185 degree, factory choke didn't open all the way at idle, not open even 1/2 halfway, so running too rich if choke not open all the way at idle, accelerator pump gives very nice squirt.
Its a place to start, no matter if that is the problem it needs corrected. Yes once the engine is at operating temp the choke plate should be open. It can need adjustment at the well spring or at the carb.

Just a thought next time your up to temp , pull the air cleaner lid and goose the throttle , see if it pulls the plate shut killing the engine.
Like PR heads said also , the fuel system could be vapor locking on you.
I see 71Bee posted near the same ^^^^^ place to start looking.
 
The choke pull off is functional because choke flap opens about 1/8" or little more and so I did pull the air cleaner lid off and goose the throttle, it didn't pull the plate shut and didn't kill the engine because i can see squirt of fuel when tap throttle from outside of the car
 
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