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Clutch woes

prib

prib

Well-Known Member
Local time
3:54 PM
Joined
Aug 28, 2013
Messages
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Location
Hillsdale, In.
Need some advice... having lots of trouble shifting smoothly, clutch is realitively new, after inspection could see 2 fingers out evenly & 1 maybe 1/2" in or collapsed. Any recourse to get finger to release or removal only?a833 transmission fork not bent
 
I had clutch issues one evening at the entry gate at work. Getting the 67 home later that night wasn't easy. After inspection I had basically what you described. Two out, one in. I found the low finger was cracked/broken at the pivot point. I replaced the clutch.
 
I had a high pressure "Borg & Beck" or "3 finger" type McLeod PP. After having it in the car at least a year, the day before our annual "track day" one of the 3 fingers boogered up. Something broken in the PP. McLeod had since discontinued that part number. I figured it was a good opportunity to try my first diaphragm style PP, and got a McLeod, still high clamp pressure (2,900# IIRC) and it was noticeably "smoother" and a little easier to operate.
Now I'm in the "big time". American Powertrain hydraulic throwout bearing and a McLeod RXT dual disc clutch and pressure plate, cerametallic lining. Rated for 1,000 HP but the rating isn't why I stepped to that level. I have a HitMaster launch control system that once set, holds the pressure plate at a point I determine that allows just enough slip under power to launch hard without excessive tire spin. Once the time delay for that level of engagement expires, it fully engages.
It's that appx 1½ seconds of slip under power that made the McLeod rep recommend that setup, as the heat generated would not damage or destroy the cerametallic lining.
There are 1 or 2 levels below the RXT that is still a dual disc design, and one of the best aspects of the dual disc is great performance with very light clutch pedal effort, especially compared to any single disc clutch with similar performance capabilities.
Here's an example:
RXT is the one I got:
http://www.manciniracing.com/mcrxtsttwclk3.html
RST is an organic unit:
http://www.manciniracing.com/mcrststtwclk3.html
 
IMO, Something's broke, stretched, or bent. You'll need to take it out.
 
My thanks to all that responded, what I found after disassembling down to flywheel 2 of the 3 fingers worked the same &1was down half inch (reason for partial disengagement) hays clutch on top of cover has hex head over each finger, turned it and finger moved,evened all 3 and hoped. Had damn fiber disc in backwards,no harm to anything,after reassembly releases fine and adjustment is middle of rod not at end . 1 step forward 2 steps back... never give up
 
I use a .310" plate and a depth mic to set the 1.700" recommended.........
upload_2021-10-23_7-52-10.png

upload_2021-10-23_7-50-50.png
 
Thanks, didn't know that. It's back together now with a normal pedal. Anymore trouble and I will look at this first
.
 
Is there any specific reason for the 1.700 height or just a reference? My clutch is a hays brand not stock and I don't know the nominal height is. I made sure all fingers were equal before assembly my question is as long as fingers are same height and thrust brg contacts them at same time, the Z bar is only going to move so far ,as long as fingers are not lower than the 1.7 shouldn't be any problem....right? Same amount of movement, different height ?
 
prib said:
I made sure all fingers were equal before assembly my question is as long as fingers are same height and thrust brg contacts them at same time
Click to expand...
If one came loose on you and backed off the peens on it must have failed. I believe the 1.700" recommended finger height assures release of the disc with stock components. This is from way back, it's nothing new. Contacting all three fingers at the same time at 1.700" is their goal. A few either way won't hurt as long as they are even and the plate engages the disc evenly.

FWIW, A new 3100# pressure plate I bought from Mopar had one finger .050" out. The other two were spot on as assembled.
Here's the plate I had ground to .310" (from a 500 ton press ram spacer). It's just gets held in place of the disc between the PP and FW when bolted together. Several lengths of 5/16" key stock positioned right might do the job as well.
upload_2021-10-23_16-15-30.png
 
After several adjustments of fingers in and out, to see action, was able to get the release and grab that wasn't there before. Into reverse with no grinding. Next item is finding someone to rebuild my power steering gearbox, works fine leaks really bad. Can't get Cardone to go it. Anyone fairly close and reasonable price, illinois, indiana. Looks like it takes special tools.
 
Leaking from where? Input shaft or output? Both seals are easily changed IN the car without the need for any special tools!

Here's how to do the input seal.
superbirdrepairs2021 045.JPG
superbirdrepairs2021 046.JPG
superbirdrepairs2021 049.JPG
superbirdrepairs2021 050.JPG
superbirdrepairs2021 052.JPG


The output seal you use the pump pressure to blow it out by turning the wheel fully to the stop.
 
That genius! Both shafts are leaking,runs reservoir dry in 70 miles. What holds bottom seal in? Just take off pittman and crank wheel and hold it there? Probably will remove box, want to look at the return fluid line inlet. Isn't there a spring and check ball underneath? Wouldn't have to do this now if I had done it at time of c/o from manual. Should be able to pull bottom seal the way top is pulled?
 
I believe there's a retaining clip on the output shaft seal, I haven't done that one but I know @Richard Cranium has... but yes Pitman arm off, crank the wheel to the stop and pressure pushes the seal out.
 
dadsbee said:
I believe there's a retaining clip on the output shaft seal, I haven't done that one but I know @Richard Cranium has... but yes Pitman arm off, crank the wheel to the stop and pressure pushes the seal out.
Click to expand...


Yes, I replaced it last year & it wasn't that bad of a job at all. After you remove the pitman arm & pop out the lower seal, there is a snap ring that holds the upper seal in place. Remove that snap ring, start the car up and turn the steering wheel hard to the stop and this action blows the upper seal out. Be sure to have a catch bucket underneath when you do it. Put it all back together & you're ready to go.


6cb0afcbc6450110b88cea8b0805c80f.jpg
 
prib said:
After several adjustments of fingers in and out, to see action, was able to get the release and grab that wasn't there before. Into reverse with no grinding. Next item is finding someone to rebuild my power steering gearbox, works fine leaks really bad. Can't get Cardone to go it. Anyone fairly close and reasonable price, illinois, indiana. Looks like it takes special tools.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't let A1- Cardone rebuild my fingernail clippers......
 
Is there any thing else that comes out with the upper- lower seal? Don't need any surprises.
 
Thanks for the diagram, unit is on the bench. Now the fun begins, maybe.
 
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