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Long tube headers and my hammer

max340

max340

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Hey guys this is my second set of long tube headers that I’ve ordered from Summit. These are hooker comps pictured. The first set I got where are the Summit namebrand and they put the collector dead center of where the torsion bar is supposed to reside. Now I’m looking at severely beating the tubing to get the torsion to pass through. Is this right? Do you guys have to beat the **** out of the tubing to make the torsion fit?
image.jpg
 
While mine were in the car I stuck a pipe in the collector and bent the header toward the center of the body. It did the trick and mine are TTI's.
Mike
 
Great idea. I got it on a rolling cart now I’ll do that after I install it
 
493 Mike said:
While mine were in the car I stuck a pipe in the collector and bent the header toward the center of the body. It did the trick and mine are TTI's.
Mike
Click to expand...
Sounds better than beating on the tubes with a hammer....but it should not have to be that way.
 
I am working on a friends 70 383 4 speed Road Runner. It has headers on it & the clear everything, no denting the tubes. Kind of a P.I.T.A. to work on, but fit is very good. I believe they are "Hedman Hedders" made for Mopar Performance, & they are NOT small tubes, maybe 1 7/8". Car ran mid to high 11s with this combo. Have to remove the left header to take the factory starter out though.
 
By the looks of everything else, you must have new motor mounts? Brackets are installed correctly?
TTI's are way overpriced in my opinion, but they do fit. I have used 4 sets of them now with no hammering or bending required.
 
Once everything is installed in the body loosen the engine mount bolts to K frame/tranny mount .
Wiggle to settle and then do what 493 Mike suggests.
Tolerances vary from car to car.
 
Currently installing Doug’s on my 67 coronet w/440, what a PITA. Had to pull the sterling column and go in thru the bottom all while trying to install a mini starter at the same time. I’ll report back with any fitment issues.
 
Yes new motor mounts. The torsion is kinda shoved in sideways a little just so you guys could see the problem. These tubes could've easily fit with a couple of degrees more when welded to the flange for sure. How much money do you have to spend in order for **** to fit? TTI's are pushing $1000. I'm gonna whip out the porta power after I bolt this up to the car. Hope I dont make any leaks!
 
max340 said:
Yes new motor mounts. The torsion is kinda shoved in sideways a little just so you guys could see the problem. These tubes could've easily fit with a couple of degrees more when welded to the flange for sure. How much money do you have to spend in order for **** to fit? TTI's are pushing $1000. I'm gonna whip out the porta power after I bolt this up to the car. Hope I dont make any leaks!
Click to expand...

I decided to spend the extra $$$ on Doug’s so hopefully I won’t have any figment issues. Paid $775 from summit using a discount code from jegs. You can get them from Doug’s website and save 10% by signing up for their email marketing, which is a good deal.
 
Just a suggestion. After installation install that torsion bar last.Run the engine( break in ?) have the pipes hot when trying to bend them.
Along with making sure the header flange to head bolts are tight. You may find little or no adjustment is necessary.Then install the torsion bar.
 
20190302_140319.jpg
I put Doug's 2" on my B body 440 motor. Best fitting headers I've ever installed. No dents or dings required, 800 bucks was well worth it!! Plus they are beautiful.
 
Last edited:
I have 2 inch headers on my 63, and thankfully no hammer needed. Changing the #6 and #8 spark plugs is a joy though. I have to loosen the header from the head to get to them.
 
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