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Stock block, largest stroke recommended

Hi Little John,

(512ci motor in a street car 'at 600hp' in avatar)

I am medium sized John and we did the 543ci when it first came out in the early 2000's.
Piston slap if is the biggest problem with the 'short skirted' pistons!
Then there is the external oil-feed issue with the bigger than 4.250 crank.

But most of all was the ''CAP-WALK'' of the big strokers.
The 2 bolt caps just aren't up to the job and over 600hp they is POOR at best!

So we did some 'program cap' conversions and it worked very well indeed...
But the mis-informed and bias arguments has turned folks away from them???

I hear all the time folks saying ''its gonna be fine'' NO ITS NOT!!!

Unless you use very high octane and tune to the MAX, its gonna bash the CAPS!!!:monkeyleft: like this...
You can set up the modern forged pistons with a tighter fit, and there are abradable, oil retaining skirt coatings available as well to eliminate piston slap. I’ve built dozens of 4.50 stroke stock blocks with internal oiling as well. No big deal to do, even on a bridgeport.
 
Is bushing the main bolt hole or pinning the main caps a viable fix for cap walk.
 
What's the general consensus on using a BCR aluminum main cap in a street /strip bbm?
 
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What's the general consensus on using a BCR aluminum main cap in a street /strip bbm?
I’ve used these with good success. They have a one piece rear cap with integral seal retainer.
 
A center weighted crank takes a lot of stress away from some mains and spreads it out. I raced a megablock and a fully counter weighted crank virtually eliminated cap walk in that motor. 2432 balance weight, 7500 rpm. For a stock block I would use a cw crank, focus on light parts, partial fill and aluminum caps to help it all live. Always remember you are working with a block designed for Max 375 hp. Add all that up and consider that I have a brand new BMP 4.5 BORE aluminum block in my shop ready for assembly.
$5700 to my door, $1,000 to prep bores and lifters ,align hone. Now you have a base for a safe 1200 hp motor some day, and the block ways 143 lbs.
 
Always remember you are working with a block designed for Max 375 hp. Add all that up and consider that I have a brand new BMP 4.5 BORE aluminum block in my shop ready for assembly.
$5700 to my door, $1,000 to prep bores and lifters ,align hone. Now you have a base for a safe 1200 hp motor some day, and the block ways 143 lbs.
Although it's taking forever for me to $cratch and claw my way forward, I don't know for certain what my financial future will be for my 6+ years old ONE man small business.
Doing medical equipment repair and service, I'm confident that I will certainly have work, and it will continue to pay pretty well, BUT I don't know if I will pick up a number of significant clients or repeat business. My client profile is fairly broad based, so the "eggs aren't all in one or several baskets" so if I lose 1 or 2 (which I really don't expect) of my bigger income clients, I could make it up. OTOH if I pick up 3-6 one time per year annual service agreements with major facilities, that alone could be $15k-$60k in additional income, at least one year, but likely every year if I get a commitment.
My point is that with what income I have now, this year or 2023 my stroker will be completed. After losing 3 friends in as many years, we are all in our 50s, but the "BIG 6O" hits me this month, I know all too well that we aren't promised tomorrow much less "next year" so I really am motivated to get it done, in, and running well.
I decided that with a 700 ft lbs, 6XX horsepower expectations 541 stroker (4.50" bore w/4.25" stroke) build, low maintenance and high reliability as a must, I'm only going to get ONE bite at this apple, but investing so much money in top line assembly parts (crank, rods, pistons, heads, etc) why build something that takes that kind of money and is likely the ONLY chance I'll have to do it and trust a factory block with a BCR girdle system to last? I'm pushing the upper 20% of a factory block power capacity, and I'd never rest assured that I wouldn't have a failure or need a complete rebuild, plus no real ability to add power to reach another rung on the ladder? It just didn't make sense to me, like building a fancy house on a marginal foundation.
So my builder is a direct dealer with Bill Mitchell Products, and is a dealer for all the big name other parts I'll need, and his pricing is great. So going with a BMP 4.50 aluminum RB block is what I did, because every way I "planned out" the build always concluded with an aftermarket block.
I'm very likely to have them gap the rings and whatever else is required to be able to add a 300HP shot nitrous setup, and I have ZERO concerns about the block or any other parts being able to easily handle that.
When you can get the best at a great price, it makes it an easier decision, but I always came to the same conclusion: When you play in the 700/700 torque and horsepower yard, and you want your investment to be able to do more, or at least not have to worry and not have guaranteed maintenance and "wear/breakage" tear downs which take away from driving and racing opportunities that MAY not come my way again, an aftermarket block is the ONLY answer.
Good luck!
 
A 400 stroked to 512 would be a better choice than a 4.5 stroke 440. You can get up over 750 hp fairly safely. At this point I would sit down with a pencil and paper and figure out the cost of going 512/400 or 572 in an aftermarket block. If you go BMP Aluminum block you will shed over 110 lbs off the front, and have a salvageable piece should an un expected problem occur. At 15/1 compression you will likely need studs and Cometic gaskets. If you are going to run a race roller cam, focus on a bracket friendly combo. Put a pre filter in the pickup line. Incase you lose a rocker or roller lifter.
 
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