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Nylock nuts instead of castles?

Yah the aftermarket nuts that come with replacement parts suck as they're not the correct height, why you should always keep the OE's on disassembly, or as noted previously.. add a washer to bring what you have up to height of the cotter hole.
 
Forget Nylocks, check out Top Locks. One time use...

We ran those in the off road racing truck we built and they never failed.
 
Why would anyone want to re-engineer something that's not broke? We have a hard enough time
without thinking of ways to make life harder!
Yeah really, what is this turning into A-bodies only. Those guys have a better way for everything. LOL
 
How would a threaded nut be designed for a taper? The threads would not thread lol. Maybe I am misinterpreting something here. In most instanced when some thread interference is required the thread pitch is changed from "A1" to "A2" spec which is more or less locking. A2 spec fasteners typically have a life cycle because re-use rolls the threads back and the interference fit goes away. McMaster car has good examples of these specs.
 
He's stating in a vague way what I already have said much earlier. The castle nut lets you thread it on without any real resistance until it's seated and starts to pull the morse taper into it's socket. Using a nylock you'd be spinning the taper before it or the nut seats enough to tighten it.
 
When I was boat racing I saw a guy substitute a Nylock for the castle prop nut to save a little time. We went out for a heat and he lost a $300 prop. I was sold on castle nuts that day.
 
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