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U.S. Cartool Frame connectors and fuel line challenges!

zyzzyx

zyzzyx

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So , it's time to put in the 3/8" fuel line and the 1/4" return line. I really don't want to slice
and dice my new stainless lines up and have been scouring the forum and the net for answers.
The best answer I can come up with is to make a slot with a long burr starting at the original
hole, and cut a slot from there towards the right rocker panel until I can put the line in and
feed it through until it's in place. Even with the slots in the connectors, there's no way it will
fit without the slot in the torsion bar cross member. This is the only way I can figure out how
to put these guys in without losing strength. Any ideas or pic's? Thanks Guys!
 
I cut slots in the USCT connectors on my 69 RR and then reinforced them because they lost to much rigidity. Not a very well thought out design imo. I'll never use another set of them.
 
zyzzyx said:
So , it's time to put in the 3/8" fuel line and the 1/4" return line. I really don't want to slice
and dice my new stainless lines up and have been scouring the forum and the net for answers.
The best answer I can come up with is to make a slot with a long burr starting at the original
hole, and cut a slot from there towards the right rocker panel until I can put the line in and
feed it through until it's in place. Even with the slots in the connectors, there's no way it will
fit without the slot in the torsion bar cross member. This is the only way I can figure out how
to put these guys in without losing strength. Any ideas or pic's? Thanks Guys!
Click to expand...

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/my-69-road-runner.212496/page-3
I posted a couple pics in post 44 & 45.
 
We used them on my '63. I wouldn't use anything else...
IMG_20181030_090953475.jpg
 
USCartool. Best upgrade ever. Welder said they fit good too.
7F3BBD6A-2206-4562-88A0-44949390774B.png
 
Yeah Hunt2elk, You really added the steel to those pieces! I like the tube you welded in for the
E-Brake cable, I just tacked mine in place and ran a string where the cable ran and marked the
connector. Then I drilled two holes and ground them oval with a die-grinder. I think they're the
Cat's ***! All the force is forward, nothing side-to-side. They'll do what they're supposed to do.
Just trying to figure the best route for me. Making the slot in the torsion cross member is the
easiest because it's only about two inches long. Thanks!
 
You did a super neat job on the install but I wouldn't want my fuel line on that side of the connector for obvious reasons.
I'm not sure it's allowed for drag racing because of the same reason? By grinding my "slot" I was able to get the fuel line
through without too much problem and I'm so glad I don't have to cut and splice anything!
 
zyzzyx said:
You did a super neat job on the install but I wouldn't want my fuel line on that side of the connector for obvious reasons.
I'm not sure it's allowed for drag racing because of the same reason? By grinding my "slot" I was able to get the fuel line
through without too much problem and I'm so glad I don't have to cut and splice anything!
Click to expand...

Hmmm... not sure about any specific NHRA rule? This is not a race car. However, if you are racing the car, presumably you'd have a driveshaft loop if you break a U joint. And if you're at the level where you're exploding transmissions you're probably going to be doing things a little differently anyway.

When you install frame connectors you obviously have to choose where to run them because you're creating a new obstacle that takes up the same real estate as the fuel line. I thought about it a lot and concluded it was easier to go along the inside. Going outside, the bends were a little more complex plus you'll have to cross over the outer frame rail and run it down to where the spring hanger is. That's sort of the way the factory did it but the line ran to the rocker. Frankly I felt less comfortable doing that way because #1 there is very little room in that spring hanger area and #2 the line would have been more exposed to road debris or what have you. Having it on the inside seemed like the best compromise.

What I thought about after the job was done was putting the line inside the frame connector itself before welding it in. You'd have to figure out how to route the line in and out of it but that's fairly easily accomplished by drilling a few holes and employing various fittings. If I had to do it again, that'd be the way I'd do it.
 
I don't like the idea of hiding a fuel line inside a frame rail. Just my opinion
 
Like I previously said, I stuck a die grinder in the outboard slot in the passenger side connecter
and ground a slot starting at the original hole to give me a straight shot with the two lines.
Now to bend the lines around in the rear so they match up with everything! Phew!
20211129_103808.jpg
20211129_135052.jpg
20211129_141623.jpg
 
I installed USCT sfc on the Dart and Coronet. Both required drilling for the e-brake. I was upgrading the Coronet fuel lines for efi anyway so it went with the territory.
The way I look at it, just about everything aftermarket needs some fabbing to fit; distributor, aluminum radiator, headers, fiberglass hood, bucket seats, the list goes on. That's hot rodding.
 
Got Er Done! The Apollo PEX clinch clamps really worked nice. I used 3/8" and 1/2" clamps
and they fit nicely. Now on to the rear brake line on the other side!
20211129_135052.jpg
20211130_145519.jpg
 
O.K., I've got one last question about these lines. Where the heck does this clip/thingy go????
DSC04356.JPG
DSC04357.JPG
 
Hammer them up between the bottom seams where the floor and rockers meet !!
 
So there's one spot on the rocker that is kind of void of clip holes so pick a spot in the
middle and pound er in! I got it! Thanks!
Hey, wait a minute! That's a brake line, not a fuel or return line!
 
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