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70 GTX takes too long to start

Mopewbie

Mopewbie

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Local time
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Sep 10, 2021
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Location
Ash Vale, Surrey, UK
Sorry about the very silly question, but that's my fist big block and I still have loads to learn about it. Unfortunately with the winter coming and lack of daylight It will take a long time until I can spend some time knowing the engine, etc.

Anyway... the car takes way too long to start.
When I bought it the previous owner said "it usually takes one minute on the dot to start the car. Don't press the gas"

That means turning the ignition on and forcing the starter for one minute straight. That doesn't sound right to me, the 318 and the 360 fire straight away during winter or summer.

The 440+6 takes ages and then it's ok but now with colder morning it's being a pain, gave up trying to start the car the other day. It has fuel, it's all good, nothing has been changed.

The only thing I've noticed as soon as I got the car is that the idle solenoid is disconnected/not in use.

And again, since I don't know this engine very well yet I would benefit of a bit of advise before start looking around. Thank you very much.
 
All engines need to be rich to start from cold.
Take off the air filter and squirt some engine start in there. If it fires straight away you know it is lack of fuel.
If it has 3 carbs only squirt engine start down the middle one.
 
Don't touch the gas? The guy doesn't have a clue.. You floor the gas at least once to set the choke and give it a accelerator pump squirt. You may have to crank it to fill the carb bowl with gas if it has evaporated out which is a common thing now days especially with a Carter/Edelbrock carb.
 
Well, if it's stock.... check the operators manual for instructions. A cold start on a '70 vehicle of most flavors would require a pump or two of the gas.... not hard pumps, as you want to set the choke if automatic choke. Then crank, without touching the gas. If it does'nt start within a few seconds, you may have to try again. A good running engine, driven daily, should pretty much start and run with that set of instructions..... Of course, it's not 1970 any longer and there are many many variables that can change the starting procedure on a given motor as well.... Sometimes motors dont really have gas available at the carb pump shooter and are harder to start (must pump gas more)...others flood easily, especially in cold weather (dont pump much at all).
Contrast that to a warm engine start, where you probably don't need to pump the gas at all before cranking, but may need to open the throttle slightly while cranking to fire it up.
 
Does it have a choke, and is it closing fully before starting it cold after setting it as previously stated?
 
toolmanmike said:
Don't tough the gas? The guy is a douche bag! You floor the gas at least once to set the choke and give it a accelerator pump squirt. You may have to crank it to fill the carb bowl with gas if it has evaporated out which is a common thing now days especially with a Carter/Edelbrock carb.
Click to expand...
I agree. It would take a full minute or two to get my 440 fired if I didn't pump the crap out of it? Today's fuel evaporate even faster. Making cold starting even harder today. Your 440 especially with 6 pack sounds normal of not touching gas?
 
If it’s been sitting for 4 - 5 days you might as well find an old mustard squeeze bottle (or one from a hair saloon for hair treatments - they will withstand about any type of chemical), remove the top of the air cleaner and dribble some gas down the carb throat and then pump it a couple times to set the choke and let some gas drain into the intake and then turn the key.

If it’s only been a day or two since driving it, you can pump it a couple times, spin the starter 10 seconds or so, pump it two or three times, hit the starter and if it doesn’t fire after 10 seconds, repeat.
 
I cured that problem in 440 motorhome by installing a low pressure electric fuel pump before I did I would give it a squirt of gas in carb and make sure the choke is clossing fully . starts like fuel injected .
 
towtruckAl said:
I cured that problem in 440 motorhome by installing a low pressure electric fuel pump before I did I would give it a squirt of gas in carb and make sure the choke is clossing fully . starts like fuel injected .
Click to expand...
Yep

fuel pump.jpg
 
I've read that the majority of engine wear occurs from cold starts. It makes sense. The oil drains off of critical parts and does not get pressurized or splashed back on until the engine runs and oil pressure builds. Think of the rings scraping against the cylinder walls, the lifters scraping the cam lobes, the rod and main bearings against the crank journals, etc.
 
You have to pump the accelerator to squirt some fuel into the engine if recently run. If the fuel bowls are dry from sitting you gotta pour some fuel down the carb to prime it up, or get a prime pump like others have said. My 440 with four barrel carb fires within a couple seconds using these methods without a choke on it.
 
Thanks all. Yeah, I thought it was very weird so I usually pump the gas before trying to fire it up.
Will proceed the way I always did and tell the results. It has an auto choke.

Might have to try the squirt bottle, I put E10 fuel since I was using the car on a regular basis but I thing it's complaining about it after 2 weeks under the cover.
I managed to start it on Friday after a long time trying, it was a mix of everything. Pumping, not pumping, pumping while cranking, checking if was close or not, etc.

Did fill up the tank with E5 after that. I'll try tomorrow morning, finger crossed.

turbine68rt said:
Does it have a choke, and is it closing fully before starting it cold after setting it as previously stated?
Click to expand...

automatic one and yes, fully closed.
 
Yep got to pump it,I fire my 6 pack at least once a week or it gets mad at me.
 
every sixpack car I have owned needs a good 3-4 pumps on the gas pedal in the cold weather to get started.
if the choke sets - this will work.

like everyone above said - if it sits for serial days, then crank it a couple times to load the center carb.
 
You really need to know if the choke is closing all the way when the engine is cold. If is sits for a few days then fill the center carb through the bowl vent.

Don’t pump while cranking, it will open the choke. Also will help it to go lean and backfire through the carb destroying the power valve,
 
definately some throttle pumps required to start cold! first I'd check all the ports on intake and carb/carbs to make sure no unported vac. leak
 
I believe it needs to be fully closed but soon as the car fires off, the choke pull-off will crack the plate about an 1/8 of an inch.
there is an adjustment rod to set the gap with.

if you live in a very warm climate - the cold choke set like in the picture will likely work ok.
 
Even though you say "auto choke " and it kinda is; it could very well need adjusted. Spring tension, choke pull-off, etc.
 
Here’s my secret recipe. Works every time, numerous cars over the years. This assumes it’s been sitting, and choke is operational and pulls off.

Don’t touch the pedal.
Cranks for a 10 count
Set choke, full pump 3-4 times, not aggressively
Count to 8
Hit the key

She’ll fire instantly.
 
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