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Finally using non ethanol fuel

This is interesting, in that I've had similar experience, and both of us run PA fuel. Baby Blue (440 GTX) was an interesting test mule, in that I drove the car both before ethanol, and after ('83 to '91, and from 2013 to last month), and had no performance issues or component failures, and made no changes to the fuel system. The fact she had an electric fuel pump since the late 70s, may have helped with the evaporation issue.
I will say that each car has had the carb rebuilt with ‘ethanol friendly’ kits but it’s been a decade on one of the cars. Evap seemed the same to me, still had the same starting process after sitting for months. I think even the non-ethanol gas evaporates faster than it did back in the 80’s. I’ve seen enough videos on open containers for both, I noticed the non ethanol still evaporated. Just not as fast. So, give it three months a only a few ounces and it’s gone too.
 
I wouldn't go that far... at least around here..
1 Shell v power
2 esso, at least if you believe their propaganda, which I half heartedly do.
All others , no as far as I could research.

I tell my customers Shell Only.
https://www.pure-gas.org/
Canadian provinces are included on that site as well.
 
I guess I’ll be the guy that says his cars run just fine on 93 with the ethanol. My cars all run fine on it. I tried the ethanol free stuff and I couldn’t tell any difference. They all started the same, hot and cold. Long time sitting, short time, doesn’t matter. Performance felt the same. Never checked fuel economy, I’m a smiles per gallon driver. :)
I guess to be clearer, the cars run fine with the ethanol blends, once they are running. But when they sit, bad things happen. Harder cranking in the summer as the fuel with ethanol evaporats out of the hot carb bowl more, so yer filling the float bowl again after you’ve eaten your bowl of chili and beer at the Crow Bar.
 
I guess to be clearer, the cars run fine with the ethanol blends, once they are running. But when they sit, bad things happen. Harder cranking in the summer as the fuel with ethanol evaporats out of the hot carb bowl more, so yer filling the float bowl again after you’ve eaten your bowl of chili and beer at the Crow Bar.
I hear ya. I’ve read about all that stuff, my experience has been none of it. Couple of Carters, T-Quad and Q-Jet, mechanical pumps, and work well when heat soaked. They sit all winter and no issues in the spring. I don’t let them sit any longer than late December to early April.
 
I wouldn't go that far... at least around here..
1 Shell v power
2 esso, at least if you believe their propaganda, which I half heartedly do.
All others , no as far as I could research.

I tell my customers Shell Only.
Ya I should have said 'around here'.
 
I guess I’ll be the guy that says his cars run just fine on 93 with the ethanol. My cars all run fine on it. I tried the ethanol free stuff and I couldn’t tell any difference. They all started the same, hot and cold. Long time sitting, short time, doesn’t matter. Performance felt the same. Never checked fuel economy, I’m a smiles per gallon driver. :)
Don't forget you must tune the engine for the fuel being used. Leaner for straight gas. Jet and timing changes.
 
When I drove my Hemi GTX home from Virginia, I had the same experience in reverse. The previous owner had run non ethanol fuel (87 octane) with additives to boost the octane level. The car started hot perfectly until I put ethanol gas in it. I no longer have the problem, but I can't say for sure what solved it, since I made several changes at the same time. I started adding the Lucas anti ethanol treatment, and installed a new fuel pump and factory vapor separator. When I drove my '69 GTX home from Iowa (the corn belt) I went from the most ethanol laden fuel in the country to better stuff. The performance and mileage improved as I headed east. Had the hot start problem, eliminated it when I got home by making the same changes I did to the Hemi. I have no personal stake in plugging Lucas products, but I've used the anti-ethanol stuff for years in my GTXs, and have not had any fuel system related problems. When I sold Baby Blue, she had a 30 year old Holley Street Avenger carb, and 44 year old electric fuel pump that were still working perfectly.
I’ve been running 91 octane ethanol, with the Lucas Ethanol fuel conditioner and stabilizer poured in with it. The previous owner of my car was also using it. He is the one that told me about it. He also occasionally poured Seafoam into the tank.. I have never used any Seafoam since I’ve owned it.

There are no stations with pure gas near me that I’m aware of..
 
I’ve been running 91 octane ethanol, with the Lucas Ethanol fuel conditioner and stabilizer poured in with it. The previous owner of my car was also using it. He is the one that told me about it. He also occasionally poured Seafoam into the tank.. I have never used any Seafoam since I’ve owned it.

There are no stations with pure gas near me that I’m aware of..
Pure gas shows two locations in Phoenix........but both seem to be race gas only.
There is supposedly a station in Havasu that sells 91, but I'm not gonna drive 40 miles one way for it.
 
Pure gas shows two locations in Phoenix........but both seem to be race gas only.
There is supposedly a station in Havasu that sells 91, but I'm not gonna drive 40 miles one way for it.
That Pure Gas site shows a Union 76, on an Indian Reservation in Payson, that sells 91 octane. It’s a 54 mile drive one way from my house. In addition, even after finishing the brakes, the Super Bee won’t be able to make a trip that far.

Ramjet Speedshop, in Phoenix, sells Sunoco Race Gas in 5 gallon pails. Or at least they did, in Summer 2020, when I took these photos. I might consider getting a pail of that stuff, once I’m able to drive the car enough to use it before the gas gets old. Who knows how long it’s been sitting in the pail before you buy it though..

Since I’ve owned this car I’m always struggling to use up 5 gallons of gas within 3 to 4 months time. I find my 383 doesn’t consume the gas fast enough! Though it doesn’t help when you can’t drive the car and can only run the engine in the garage.

3201F7EC-F5B1-4DE3-9DFF-BFFC46FF5D84.jpeg 095EA3DF-D4D4-4B84-8429-0F7DB91B8EE4.jpeg
 
I use ethanol free on all my small engines and my Charger. Helps startups in spring.
 
Basically i agree with everything posted on this subject, but when talking boosted engine its a different deal. Ethanol cools the intake charge after being compressed by a turbo, etc. Plus E85 is around 108 octane which suppresses detonation under boosted conditions. I have Buick Grand National running E85 than does 30 psi commonly with no problem for 7 years.
 
A buddy of mine says you can separate the ethanol from the gas by pouring it into a jug that has some water in the bottom of the jug. Ethanol will move to the water leaving the gas above. Haven't tried it but wondering if anyone has heard of that.....? Doesn't make sense to me....
 
I'm running a 9.3 compression 440 2 4bll, iron heads and can run just about anything. Lower octane will cause more soot/carbon but I mainly run 92 octane ethanol during the summer months with Stabil 360 for a corrosion inhibitor. End of the year I'll run the tank just about empty and fill it up with 89 E free for storage.
 
A buddy of mine says you can separate the ethanol from the gas by pouring it into a jug that has some water in the bottom of the jug. Ethanol will move to the water leaving the gas above. Haven't tried it but wondering if anyone has heard of that.....? Doesn't make sense to me....

There's a couple of youtube videos on doing this.
 
I have to join the group that has never had a problem with E10 fuels. I know, over the 4 automotive forums I belong to, there is a large faction believing E10 will do harm to your classic. A couple years ago I did a non scientific test between my 75 C3 with a mild build 355 original Rochester carb and my 70 Swinger 340 with a stock LA and original Carter carb. The Vette got a diet of non-ethanol and the Dart got E10 @ 90 octane. Both fuels were purchased from the same station with the E10 being, on average, $.90 cheaper. I put about 2,000 miles on each car over the Summer and put them up in November for the Winter. In my experience there was no difference in mileage, running temp, performance or starting with both fuels. In the Spring both cars fired after 3 or 4 seconds to fill the fuel bowls with no difference at all. I will have the same Spring startup test with my 64 Pontiac 400 cube run on 91 Non-E and my new Belevedere 440 cube that has lived on E10 @ 93 octane for at least the past 5 years.
Furthermore I have a 20hp lawn tractor, 2 weed eaters, a chain saw, a snow blower and a leaf blower. All are 10 years old or more except the tractor at 6. All are run on E10 @ 87 octane and have been running that fuel forever. There might be something to the earlier statement that the quality of fuel in NW PA. might be better but I have no way of knowing if that is true or not. Bottom line is; do what works for you and enjoy the hot rod under you.
Jerry
 
I have to join the group that has never had a problem with E10 fuels. I know, over the 4 automotive forums I belong to, there is a large faction believing E10 will do harm to your classic. A couple years ago I did a non scientific test between my 75 C3 with a mild build 355 original Rochester carb and my 70 Swinger 340 with a stock LA and original Carter carb. The Vette got a diet of non-ethanol and the Dart got E10 @ 90 octane. Both fuels were purchased from the same station with the E10 being, on average, $.90 cheaper. I put about 2,000 miles on each car over the Summer and put them up in November for the Winter. In my experience there was no difference in mileage, running temp, performance or starting with both fuels. In the Spring both cars fired after 3 or 4 seconds to fill the fuel bowls with no difference at all. I will have the same Spring startup test with my 64 Pontiac 400 cube run on 91 Non-E and my new Belevedere 440 cube that has lived on E10 @ 93 octane for at least the past 5 years.
Furthermore I have a 20hp lawn tractor, 2 weed eaters, a chain saw, a snow blower and a leaf blower. All are 10 years old or more except the tractor at 6. All are run on E10 @ 87 octane and have been running that fuel forever. There might be something to the earlier statement that the quality of fuel in NW PA. might be better but I have no way of knowing if that is true or not. Bottom line is; do what works for you and enjoy the hot rod under you.
Jerry
The problem is any fuel with even just a slight amount of alcohol attracts moisture.....even as little as E10. Ethanol/alcohol also attacks fuel system soft parts unless it's made for it and the fuel just doesn't last nearly as long as non ethanol fuels. On top of that, I did notice a difference in fuel mileage when the E10 hit the pumps around here. I used to keep track of my mileage all the time and over a period of more than a year, my log book showed a difference. My diesel was the one that showed the biggest drop when the bio-diesel low sulfur stuff was introduced. Never saw 25 mpg again with that thing no matter what I did.

Got a question for ya. If you go with E-85....why do you have to richen up the carb so much? It's just the nature of alcohol based fuels. It takes more volume to do the same thing and E-10 isn't any different....just not nearly as noticeable. I've also had more problems with small engines that sit for long periods of time like generators etc. if I don't treat the fuel with products like Sta-Bil etc. Straight gasoline will always last longer than fuels that are spiked with ethanol. I'm actually cycling the fuel in my generator and other small engines that haven't been run in awhile or hasn't had fresh fuel in the last 10 months and dumping it into my beater pickup to burn it off.
Sick of cleaning/replacing carbs on my small engines.....
DJ
 
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