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Calvert Caltracs for B body

I have the Competition Engineering Slide a Links on a 74 duster along with the 002 and 003 SS springs. Rear shocks are the Viking double adjustable. Haven’t did any adjustments other then the initial adjustments. 29x11.5 Hoosier qtp slicks. 3300 lbs with driver. 10.37 et at 129.65 mph. 1.451. 60 ft. This is a foot brake car. Kim
 
My car typically 60ft's at 1.45-1.47 with the CalTracs - 3650lbs on 9-inch slicks, foot brakin'
 
Nope, not all the Stock/Super Stock Guys are running Caltracs, not even close.
Before Caltracs, we learned how to make Super Stock Leaf Springs work and work consistently.
Many of the old school Racers have stuck with their Leaf Springs and continued to dominate at the Track.
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Contrary to popular belief, Caltracs do not improve all suspensions and have actually slowed down SS Spring Cars that were already set up correctly.
If you're new to racing, I recommend you install a Super Stock Leaf Spring System on your Car. The Key is getting the correct spring rate, using solid spring perch bushings and setting up your Pinion Snubber AND Pinion Angle correctly. It is also important to have the springs freshened every 3 years. ALL of this is pointed out in great detail in the Mopar Performance Chassis setup Book. This is also the most economical way to set up a stock/super stock suspension.
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Greg Luneack at Tri City Competition sells Super Stock Springs (painted red) tailored specifically for your Car. It is recommended that you weigh your car before calling him to order your setup. Weigh the front, rear and overall weight of the Car. They can also freshen your Springs.

View attachment 771270
 
if I remember super stock springs and extended front mount with the one side has a extra set of half springs, and use adj pinon snubber, WHy change what engineers did in direct connection, in late 60/early '70s, I thought of going with 20" caltrac bars on my s.s. leafs, but why? I run bracket roadrunner 11.70 car
 
Well, I went with a combination, and I think that I read in this thread that matters. The combination is Calvert split mono leaf springs AND Smith Racecraft Assassin Traction Bars (similar to CalTracks, but better, IMO)
Rather than move/add/remove multi leaf clamps, I "believe" (because I haven't had time to try) making adjustments on the spring preload, and possibly moving the Assassin bars around (with more adjustments available in this regard than CalTracks) relative to the components they attach to, and that part is done. Of course there's all the other adjustments, shocks, etc, but it "seems" like CalTracks or Assassin bars make it easier to get dialed in?
 
Caltrac bars work great. I run them in my hemi car. They like any system require “work” to get figured out and dialed in as every car is different. Sure some of the other systems have more adjustability but in the hands of normal people they are not necessarily better. The more complex systems can be very easy to get out of whack and be very hard to get dialed. One reason some people still build ladder bar cars. They are relatively simple and easy to make work. Sometimes less is more..
 
I don’t like the look of the caltrac single leaf spring. :)
 
I was under the impression that 4-link systems shined in high HP race setups. Where small adjustments make big difference. But in stock/super stock builds? (8.90 or slower) there is little gains with investment to a more advanced rear setup vs SS springs/snubber? Most these race setups are of cars heavily tubbed and narrowed rears. But in the stock or mini tubbed world? SS spring setup is certainly the first to consider?
 
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I don’t like the look of the caltrac single leaf spring. :)
Hideous, right?:poke::D
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My super bird there’s a 500 stroker in it. I put a new set of SuperStock Springs of it I couldn’t get traction with them on the street. I put on a set of caltracks . Night and day difference The picture was when I had the super stock springs on I was doing Around 40 miles an hour

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My super bird there’s a 500 stroker in it. I put a new set of SuperStock Springs of it I couldn’t get traction with them on the street. I put on a set of caltracks . Night and day difference The picture was when I had the super stock springs on I was doing Around 40 miles an hour

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Automatic or Manual transmission?
I'm lusting after your car! Rear gear and final drive ratio? Any suspension changes up front? Brakes?
:popcorn2::popcorn2::popcorn2:
 
My heap is a low 11 second stick shift car.
With the stock spring, it wrapped up so bad the u joint ripped out the the yoke first time I dumped the clutch.
After that, went to XHD springs with a snubber, unclamped, cheap truck shocks, and it worked really well for what it was.
@ 17 seconds you can see the springs working
Dragstrip 2 - YouTube

I went to split leafs with no bars, the results were pretty dramatic, wouldn't hook up until 3rd gear

Tire Spin - YouTube

With the Assassin bars, on the street, it's lifting the front tires, although it's hitting the back tires too hard. Smith said start in the bottom holes,and work the rear of the bar up until its still hooks up, but doesnt smash the tire, and you arent over working the shocks.
 
My heap is a low 11 second stick shift car.
With the stock spring, it wrapped up so bad the u joint ripped out the the yoke first time I dumped the clutch.
After that, went to XHD springs with a snubber, unclamped, cheap truck shocks, and it worked really well for what it was.
@ 17 seconds you can see the springs working
Dragstrip 2 - YouTube

I went to split leafs with no bars, the results were pretty dramatic, wouldn't hook up until 3rd gear

Tire Spin - YouTube

With the Assassin bars, on the street, it's lifting the front tires, although it's hitting the back tires too hard. Smith said start in the bottom holes,and work the rear of the bar up until its still hooks up, but doesnt smash the tire, and you arent over working the shocks.
Thanks for that post. I may lean on you for advice given that you have "the rare in racing" manual transmission and Assassin bars.
Mr Kim Smith was one of the reasons why I went with Assassin traction bars vs CalTracks. He was helpful on the phone (as I have also heard Calvert Racing is) and also lives not far from me.
What really did it is the build quality and slight difference in design. I prefer the way they contact the leaf springs, there's more adjustment available, loops for trailering tie down straps, and road clearance is in between the short CalTracks and the full size CalTracks.
 
Thanks for that post. I may lean on you for advice given that you have "the rare in racing" manual transmission and Assassin bars.
Mr Kim Smith was one of the reasons why I went with Assassin traction bars vs CalTracks. He was helpful on the phone (as I have also heard Calvert Racing is) and also lives not far from me.
What really did it is the build quality and slight difference in design. I prefer the way they contact the leaf springs, there's more adjustment available, loops for trailering tie down straps, and road clearance is in between the short CalTracks and the full size CalTracks.

I went with them for the exact same reason, although the adjustment part doesn't need to be so extensive. Those tie downs alone are a cool feature, and even though we will probably never bend a spring at our power level, (well mine anyhow, around 700), it just seems to be better.
Calvert is obviously a great brand though, so not knocking them at all, plus they are a great asset to the race community.
At the end of the day, was all the money spent to go from the unclamped XHD to to Assassin/Calvert setup worth it? Probably not. The only way to know though was try.
 
The super bird has a 727 auto and Dana with 3:54 gears. Motor is 11.4 Compression The car Has only 1 cheap paint job. Original vinyl top. I don’t ever plan on restoring it.
 
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