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440 source sheel metal valley tray .

cj's mopar

cj's mopar

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Hello has any one used a 440 source valley tray with a Aluminum Edelbrock Manifold?
Does it fit? I see they gave one for the RPM intake was going to try it ..
 
There is a flat one for manifolds that don't have the heat crossover, for the RPM you have to have the one with the pocket.
 
Will this work with a Aluminum 6 pack intake?
 
If you put the intake on the engine and are able to see that the intake doesn't go any farther down
than below the front and rear sealing rails, you can use a flat pan. Otherwise you'll need to either machine the
bottom of the intake for clearance or use a pan with a depression in it.
 
cj's mopar said:
Will this work with a Aluminum 6 pack intake?
Click to expand...
Saw this on a steering wheel of a car at Bonneville......If at first you don't succeed......read the instructions!

If one goes to the 440 Source website they will see that the 440 Source valley pan is designed for the unique Edelbrock RPM Performer manifold only and no other manifolds with the exhaust cross over.
 
I have an Indy dual plane manifold and the exhaust crossover is flush! When I put the flat pan on, it just barely touches thecrossover. Measur, measure, measure.
 
Trying to possibly eliminate the stock tray and doubled gasket s, due to decked block and shaved heads .
Have not been able to mock up yet waiting on head gaskets.
.060 off the head a and .017 of the block .
Trying to avoid any more machine work.
 
I never got mine to seal right and went back to stock. A dab of sealer to hold the gaskets in place makes the task much easier.

sjd
 
Are the intake sides of the heads corrected
cj's mopar said:
Trying to possibly eliminate the stock tray and doubled gasket s, due to decked block and shaved heads .
Have not been able to mock up yet waiting on head gaskets.
.060 off the head a and .017 of the block .
Trying to avoid any more machine work.
Click to expand...
 
cj's mopar said:
Trying to possibly eliminate the stock tray and doubled gasket s, due to decked block and shaved heads .
Have not been able to mock up yet waiting on head gaskets.
.060 off the head a and .017 of the block .
Trying to avoid any more machine work.
Click to expand...
Looks to me like you are going to be doing a lot more machine work. A lot.
 
Maybe or a valley tray and a .015 thou gasket might make it happen . Lol
 
cj's mopar said:
Maybe or a valley tray and a .015 thou gasket might make it happen . Lol
Click to expand...
I don't think anybody should be laughing.

The theory goes like this....

....If the engine is torn down and everything fit good before the tear down.....

....then if you mill a total off the head and block mating surfaces .077".....

....and use the same thickness gaskets and reinstall the same parts after milling....

....for everything to fit as it was before....

....you would need to also have milled the intake manifold or the cylinder head intake surface, or a combination of the two, a total of .095"...... (.0123" for every .010" off the head or block)....

....plus the block rail surfaces on the front and back would need to be milled .131" (.017" for every .010" off the block or head)

Maybe you'll get lucky somehow. I guess you'll find out when you get your head gaskets and mock things up. A thicker head gasket than the one you took off would help some.....but then why have bothered to mill the heads so much if you're just going to use a thicker gasket to raise things back up?

I've said my piece....good luck.
 
Last edited:
When your ready to test fit put a light coat of prussian blue on intake surface. The prussian will transfer to heads. Needs to be carefully done, it doesn't dry fast like dykem blue. Wear gloves and have paper towels for clean up. It's what artists use. Prussian is available on amazon or where they sell art supplies.
 
All I can do is laugh at this because , when I had the machine work done the engine builder did not even ask or mention correcting the intake side of the heads. The guy who did the work is very good at his craft but does not build many Mopar emgines. To his defense and my ignorance. Live and learn .
IQ52 said:
I don't think anybody should be laughing.

The theory goes like this....

....If the engine is torn down and everything fit good before the tear down.....

....then if you mill a total off the head and block mating surfaces .077".....

....and use the same thickness gaskets and reinstall the same parts after milling....

....for everything to fit as it was before....

....you would need to also have milled the intake manifold or the cylinder head intake surface, or a combination of the two, a total of .095"...... (.0123" for every .010" off the head or block)....

....plus the block rail surfaces on the front and back would need to be milled .131" (.017" for every .010" off the block or head)

Maybe you'll get lucky somehow. I guess you'll find out when you get your head gaskets and mock things up. A thicker head gasket than the one you took off would help some.....but then why have bothered to mill the heads so much if you're just going to use a thicker gasket to raise things back up?

I've said my piece....good luck.
Click to expand...
 
I don’t think this is a Mopar only deal. The basic principles of Geometry apply to nearly all V configuration engines, and dictate that if you change the height of the deck, you are essentially narrowing the engine itself. Thus, you’ll then have to change the mating dimension of the manifold correspondingly.
 
They're flimsy.
It kept developing leaks. I finally ripped it off at the track after oil covered my engine compartment

Screenshot_20211229-113713_Gallery.jpg
 
bobtile said:
They're flimsy.
It kept developing leaks. I finally ripped it off at the track after oil covered my engine compartment

View attachment 1214506
Click to expand...
Oh yeah, same here. I even tried tack welding reinforcing strips on it and it still would break the seal along the head and leak. It went into the dumpster.
 
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