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Holley nonadjustable

Tylor

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Has anyone ever use the HOLLEY 4-barrel that is non-adjustable and set right out of the box? Its a 600cfm with electric choke. You and play with the idle mix screws but not the floats. It ran like a champ with no fumbles problems but I played with the idle mix screws and now shes a mess
 
I would look up on the web how to set the idle mixture screws. Something like

I would start by gently seating them and then back out 1.25 to 1.5 turns. They should be the same on both sides. Then I would adjust to highest vacuum reading using a vacuum gauge. Both same amount. Then I would open up by about 1/8 to 1/4 turn both sides to make a little more rich because that will help with transitions.

If you have done other things, like changing the setting on the accelerator pump cam, look that up or ask.
 
Careful. Some of the emission carbs had backwards idle mixture screws. Screwing them in made the mixture richer, not leaner. They did that so the backyard tuner couldn't make the idle too rich.
 
Its the carb that has the Tru-Set needle valve and the instructions say not to touch the screws
 
Hence the reason when I've been tasked with writing manuals for equipment I always put the comment

"What? Couldn't get it to work? Hoping to find help in the manual?"

For some reason the office manager tasked with proof reading always takes it out.... (well actually the first time she missed it) LOL
 
Post up the list number for the carb and the literature revision number.
 
if that needle get crap in it your flooding , i like to be able to pull it out to clean and crap out.
 
Most without externally adjustable float (like 1850s), float bowls still provide for float level adjustment of the floats inside. I would not install a new Holley of this type without first pulling the bowls and checking the float level and drop. Things happen in the factory and in shipping.
 
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IMO.....Some models of Holley carbs have FIXED (thru built in orifices) primary idle / transition fuel feed systems, including the reverse or "backward" idle air bleed adjusyments, as #3 has suggested. Some emission control carb requirements also featured a "hidden" air bleed adjustment, located in the front of the vertical wall of the choke's air horn casting. It is in the bottom of the boss that is part of the air horn casting and is adjustable. If the primary metering block is removed, there is a connecting passage way to the adjustment passageway. If the incorrect metering block gasket is used, this passageway will blocked, possibly causing a rich mixture. Not every model has this feature but if it does, it can upset the idle fuel feed to cause very poor idle conditions.......just something else to possibly consider.....
BOB RENTON
 
Excuse the old and nasty box. I'll put a vaccum gauge to it and see what comes up

20220102_091119.jpg
 
It ran like a champ with no fumbles problems but I played with the idle mix screws and now shes a mess
This is the part I don't get lol Did you try to put the idle mix screws back to where they were?
 
This is the part I don't get lol Did you try to put the idle mix screws back to where they were?
I did several times my friend lol I think I got it now. I did the normal reset and I got 20 on the vaccum gauge. The thing is it the carbs that are calibrated out of the box and its says not to touch the idle screws because they already set. I think it all good now just needed to do some research
 
I doubt any carb is set correctly right out of the box. They have them in a general ballpark setting so it'll work.
Every engine is different, with different needs and would require different settings on a carb.
 
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