To remove rear main seal with crank in. Don't me how it works.
Rear main seal leak and need advice
- Thread starter Beekeeper
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That’s a sneaky Pete seal install tool. Once you remove the old seal you sneak the cable around and up behind the crank in the seal groove. Then small gripper clip grabs the new seal and you pull the seal in.
Mojoe9955
Well-Known Member
I think you use to pull the upper part of the old seal out, then pull the new one in...with motor still in the car
Gunner1
Well-Known Member
Just a thought. I’ve seen blocks that leaked like sieves. We found that blocks that had been line honed seem to be represented at a much higher number. What we found was the relationship of the crank centerline being moved a couple of thousands and the seal centerline staying the same contributed to the problem. With a high performance motor having looser main clearances and higher leakdown numbers due to looser piston to wall as well as increased ring gaps. This caused increased crankcase pressures which in conjunction with a seal misalignment with the seal/crank interface showed an increase in leaky rear mains. We switched our model to only cutting no more than .002 off a cap. If the block showed that it might need more to clean up we would use the line bore and set it up to take the majority of the cut out of the cap. The other problem we found was rear main caps cut at an angle. Then when they were honed the centerline was straight but the seal top half was not parallel to the crank surface. Big deal on chevys and fords. The info on the pan bolt interference was a great find. Oh and I know some cranks Were made with the knurl cut backwards. Nothing can make one of those seal. Not sure if any 440s were but I do know a batch of 460 ford strokers did.
Gunner1
Well-Known Member
Yup had to lube the snot out of the seal cause it was still a booger to pul thru. But a good rope install was leak free for a long time done right.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Awesome, when does it go into the car?
Once I get the fuel distribution sorted I plan to go through the gearbox and then into the car it goes. It’s going to take some time for me to get the jetting sorted out on these carbs. I tried bigger metering rods but still rich at idle and it was the leanest calibration on the tuning chart.
From here on I will be trying different jet and rod combinations to work out the rich idle condition this is a learning experience for me as I’ve never dealt with dual 4 barrels on anything. It’s running pig rich and I’m getting gas in the oil and changing brand new oil every time I run it will get really expensive quick.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
What kind of vacuum at idle and what springs are in the carbs?
10” of steady Vacuum and I completely removed the step up springs so I have not tried the yellow springs yet it had Orange springs in it. I moved the covers over so I could see the step up pistons and they were pulled down tight but they would dance a little every now and again.
I will put the yellows back in next time I run it just wanted make sure it wasn’t getting on the power circuit while idling. I’d like a jet rod change low enough to keep it from running rich I would settle for a lean idle mixture at the moment.
I will put the yellows back in next time I run it just wanted make sure it wasn’t getting on the power circuit while idling. I’d like a jet rod change low enough to keep it from running rich I would settle for a lean idle mixture at the moment.
I AGREE!!!!
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Another problem area isn't the seal at all. If the retainer bolts are left without sealer across the hole, oil can find its way through the void and in-between the gasket. This can look like a rear seal leak but it isn't. I didn't know about this before. Every time I would jack up the front of the car for awhile then let it back down, I'd find a small spot of oil on the floor. A member on here had mentioned this occurring if the retainer bolt holes weren't filled with sealer before installing the gasket and bolting on the pan. I thought my rear seal might have had a leak but I changed pans earlier this year and apon inspection the side retainers and crank seal were dry. I sealed the retainer bolt holes flush with sealer before installing the new pan, no more leak anymore.
The holes are not filled flush with sealer in this picture.
BTW there is a Sticky on rear main seals....
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...ial-rear-main-seal-replacement-thread.175771/
The holes are not filled flush with sealer in this picture.
BTW there is a Sticky on rear main seals....
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...ial-rear-main-seal-replacement-thread.175771/
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When you look at the size of a new rope seal, I don't see how you could ever pill it through. Even worse, how are you supposed to cut the ends?
70rcode
Well-Known Member
Hi Beekeeper,...The best instructional video I've seen on this leak problem with really clear illuminated views on the specific fitment problem areas & expertly done.....Hope all your motors run drip free....Hope things are good in Eastern Tn as I go thru through town to visit my son on Clinch Mt Ridge, near Spruce Pine Church..... Maybe we can meet up sometime.
Shoot yea maybe we could meet up sometime. My taxidermist lives on Spruce Pine
I just put that in my boys 4.3 engine and holy smokes did it stop his rear main seal leak. I’m seriously thinking about just putting a rope seal in mine and add the blue devil to it on its first run. This stuff has made a believer out of me and his truck leaked worse than my car did.
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Years ago I had a well worn 79 Dodge 1 ton and it put down a spot of oil that was about 4" in diameter every time I shut it off. Even the clutch was oil soaked so in went a bottle of stop leak. Don't remember the brand but after leaving it in there for about 200 miles I changed the oil when the leak was about the size of a dime. I would imagine the engine still had the original rope seal in it. I haven't had good luck with lip seals either but I know the rope seals worked well.
Challenger340
Well-Known Member
We use the factory retainers, stock neoprene seals in the Kits..... never an issue.
We 'hang' every BB Mopar engine we assemble here with just the Crank/Seal installed and completely submerged in Oil for a few hours before proceeding with the rest of the assembly.
If it's gonna leak ?.... we want to know BEFORE we run it on the Dyno !
Forget the side seals, we use the side to side 'play' in the retainer and move/drag the seal half side that doesn't seal against the crank over into contact(BB Mopars are notorious for that).... then tighten the Bolts and just silicon the sides up.
Again here...
Factory retainers, stock seals.... never an issue.
We 'hang' every BB Mopar engine we assemble here with just the Crank/Seal installed and completely submerged in Oil for a few hours before proceeding with the rest of the assembly.
If it's gonna leak ?.... we want to know BEFORE we run it on the Dyno !
Forget the side seals, we use the side to side 'play' in the retainer and move/drag the seal half side that doesn't seal against the crank over into contact(BB Mopars are notorious for that).... then tighten the Bolts and just silicon the sides up.
Again here...
Factory retainers, stock seals.... never an issue.
Do you clock your seals? Again, my engine builder guaranteed mine wouldn’t leak. Factory retainer, felcro black rubber seal, he claimed it didn’t need clocked if done correct. He did use the side seal but I couldn’t tell where it was leaking because everything was wet. He swore on the Bible it wasn’t leaking at the block seal but that’s exactly where it was leaking at. Can you clock the seal at 12 and 6 o’clock and press the retainer on the seal itself? Had a guy tell me that’s way he done them and he never uses a side seal.
Frank Mopar
Well-Known Member
One word. Fastfish
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