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66 Charger disc brakes

Skatpak

Skatpak

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I am considering changing from front drum to front disc brakes. Im not sure what's all intailed. Has anyone done this? What's needed and how difficult is it?
 
There are several venders selling disc brakes.Do you want original MOPAR or an aftermarket brand?
 
There is a way to do it by keeping your drum spindles now.
I think it is "Scarebird" or something like that.
But I've always done it the bolt on way.

If you do, go with the larger "Cordoba" rotors.
Since you will need to buy rotors anyway.
It will help.
And with the larger rotors you will need the larger caliper adapters.
Doctor Diff is a good source but I don't see them on there now.
https://www.doctordiff.com/brakes/front/
But with the larger rotors 14 inch rims won't clear.
You will need 15 inch rims.
Brake lines from a St. Regis will work.
You can junk yard the spindles.
Used to be that was all.
Now they are reproduced.
Again,
https://www.doctordiff.com/reproduction-disc-brake-knuckles.html
If they ever get off the ships from Taiwan or where ever.
https://www.allpar.com/threads/disc-o-tech-stop-on-a-dime.237038/
See also re the spindle debate.
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/mopp-0503-swapping-a-and-b-disc-brake-spindles/
Myself?
I wouldn't get wrapped around the axle on that.
If I had a pair of spare F body spindles laying around I would try them and see if there was a problem
WAIT!
I do have a spare pair laying around.
And if your car has a factor anti sway bar you will need to swap the spindles side to side to move the calipers to the rear.
 
Last edited:
In terms of minimally invasive changes you can use the stock drum spindles with ‘67 Mustang rotors and 4 piston calipers. That’s what Leeds sells. Goes in easy and works well.

Many, including Leeds and Wilwood, use a dual 8” booster. These have a design flaw and will get sticky in a hot engine compartment. Brakes drag and you need to pull the pedal back up. I’m on #3 and have heard of many others with the same issue. Get a correct original booster, or at least a factory one.
 
I used 1970 B-body stuff on the front of my 1964 Polara. This was years ago, and I picked all the stuff off a junkyard RoadRunner. As poster #4 said. swap the spindles side for side to put calipers in back, otherwise, they hit your sway bar. Spindles are totally interchangeable with no change to suspension/steering geometry. For dual diapragm booster, I use ones from late '80's to early '90's B-vans. They mount on a 90 degree bracket under the hood and are easy to get to. Optionally, non-Hemi Bendix boosters are being reproduced. Also, combination valves are being reproduced. I used to get mine from junkyard Dippy/5th Ave. I have also helped guys doing this conversion using Dippy/5th Ave. spindles and parts. Rotors and calipers are still available at parts stores and are dirt cheap.
 
Let me say that I have never tried this, however I have considered it many times for the front on my 67.
I was told by many first gen Charger people that the 1976-80 Dodge Aspen/Plymouth Volare spindle and brake set up will bolt right on the our cars. I would like to speak to someone who has tried it but (again I heard) it was simple and you can keep your 14 inch wheels.
 
ODZKing said:
Let me say that I have never tried this, however I have considered it many times for the front on my 67.
I was told by many first gen Charger people that the 1976-80 Dodge Aspen/Plymouth Volare spindle and brake set up will bolt right on the our cars. I would like to speak to someone who has tried it but (again I heard) it was simple and you can keep your 14 inch wheels.
Click to expand...
Easy as a email to Dr Diff.
 
I used spindles, 11" discs. and proportioning block from a 73 Dart
(all fit my 14 inch American Racing wheels)
I used the calipers from an 80's fmj so I could rear hang them and still use my sway bar
My car is a 66 and I got all of the lines from inline tube including the dual set up
since I have manual brakes I had to get a Master cylinder with a 15/16th bore
I have good brakes but it does take a lot of pressure on the pedal to stop

I went through a lot to get it right
I wasted a lot of parts
but with what I know now and the easily available parts. I would just call Cass at Dr Diff and order it all from him
 
Thank you all for all the info, now ive got my homework a head of me.....
 
I used late 70s Aspen/Volare disc brake setup on a 69 Charger a few years ago.

Lines from a early 70s Camaro and it was all 100% drop in conversion.

BUT, that car was in original Bendix disc brake car so I didnt have to change anything with master cylinder / booster assy
 
I installed 67 coronet 500 hemi disc brakes on my 66 Charger. to do it this way, you need to use the spindles,pdb booster and master cyl, brake lines, hoses, and valve. these are kelsey-hayes 4piston calipers that are difficult to find, but my 14” stock wheels and stock wheel covers fit perfectly.
 
BTW If you go with original Bendix 4 piston calipers, beware they can be VERY expensive!
 
Pics below. I just did this on my 66 Charger with one of the power disk brake kits that cost about $900 for all the parts, I wasn't worried about "original mopar" parts though because I just wanted good safe breaks so the car is a pleasure to drive and I must say I achieved that. Other than buying the brake kit the other significant change was wheel size. The brake kit requires 15" wheels for clearance and the stock wheels are 14". After all said and done, I would highly recommend it!

If this is a route you want to take let me know and I can provide specifics on parts as well as wheel/tire specs that I went with.

IMG_0254.jpeg
IMG_0255.jpeg
IMG_0261.jpeg
IMG_0262.jpeg
IMG_0263.jpeg
IMG_0264.jpeg
 
Original 66 to 69 disc work great, had a 69 Coronet 500. The price for original parts even repop stuff is spendy. As you said in post #10 do your homework.
 
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