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Adjusting door hinges

Richard Cranium

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I have to move a door up to align with the fender better by about 3/16”. Do I move the hinges on the door or on the body to accomplish this?
 
up and down is accomplished with the hinge to pillar bolts. in and out is the hinge to door adjustment.
 
And it is nice to have a helper when moving the door up.
 
you may have to tap them with a hammer after the bolts are loose...... dont run the bolts out more than necessary

the weight of the door will want to pull the upper hinge back and the lower hinge forward....... have the door open as much as possible while the bolts are loose

and those upper hinge bolts on the inside are probably gonna suck to get to
 
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From the Factory Service Manual:
 

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  • 1967-1970 B-BODY-HINGE-INSTALLATION-INSTRUCTIONS 1.pdf
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  • 1967-1970 B-BODY-HINGE-INSTALLATION-INSTRUCTIONS 2.pdf
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I have to move a door up to align with the fender better by about 3/16”. Do I move the hinges on the door or on the body to accomplish this?

how does the door line up with the quarter? and what do the 3 gaps look like?
 
Ya,, pics pics. Generally you line up the door to the quarter and cowl, rocker.. then line up the fender to match.
 
Not sure if typical but when I removed the driver side hinges on my 66 to rebuild there was caulking in the square holes in the hinge to pillar mount - for waterproofing I guess. That old dried up caulking might interfere with raising the door if not removed.
 
Also, consider the alignment to the quarter lock pillar & lock striker when doing so.
 
how does the door line up with the quarter? and what do the 3 gaps look like?

The gaps don’t look bad and it’s fairly good on the rear of door - quarter panel, although it could still come up a smidge. As you can see, it’s the front that is really off…..

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It looks like your door needs to tip up at the back to open up the gap there a little and close up the gap at the front. This would mean loosening the bolts at the door. Passenger side.
 
Open the door and try to pick up on it. Maybe your hinges are getting wore causing the back to sag?
 
looking at the pics and not being there personally......the door can't go higher in the back, its already there; and the body lines appear to line up

rear of the fender is a little high, and needs to come up in the front to close that upper gap to the door.; but most of your issue is trim alignment. I bet the end clips on the door and rear clip on the fender have a nut and will allow you some wiggle room......i wouldn't touch the hinges until last if nesessary

assuming it's very similar to 68-70 in the cowl area, there is an "ear" on the cowl that the fender sits on with a stud and nut..... if there is no shim there, the ear may need to be beat down a little as it will hold the fender up...... if the nut/stud is loose, tightening it will pull the fender down
 
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Why not raise fender at the front. May need up the hood bumper also.
 
it needs a little bit of everything....... if it was here, i'd probably have the fender off and get the door as perfect as can be...... see if there is any wiggle room in the trim, and fit the fender as needed...... sometimes it's easier to just "dive in" and start from scratch
 
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Why not raise fender at the front. May need up the hood bumper also.


If anything, the fender would have to come down, however, the fender lines up with the cowl.

The rear of the door could come up maybe a strong sixteenth. It doesn't look like it in the picture, but the body lines between the door and fender are off equally with the body side molding.
 
If anything, the fender would have to come down, however, the fender lines up with the cowl.

The rear of the door could come up maybe a strong sixteenth. It doesn't look like it in the picture, but the body lines between the door and fender are off equally with the body side molding.

he means raise the front of the fender, the rear could come down a smidge....raising the front will close the wide gap at the top
 
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