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Front brake conversion

D

djbr459

Well-Known Member
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Jan 15, 2014
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Hi everyone,
I converted the front brakes on my 66 Coronet.
All new parts from Right Stuff.
The pads are very tight on the rotors. I had to hand force the calipers onto the rotors and they will not rotate.
The pistons are pushed in all the way. I have not yet bled the brakes.
They are manual brakes.
Has anyone had this happen?
 
Is the caliper centered on the rotor, sometimes the caliper can be off set and needs to be shimmed slightly.
 
Red63440 said:
Is the caliper centered on the rotor, sometimes the caliper can be off set and needs to be shimmed slightly.
Click to expand...
The caliper is centered on the rotor.
Seems like the pads are too thick.
 
I would give “Right Stuff” a call and explain things to them.
 
Red63440 said:
I would give “Right Stuff” a call and explain things to them.
Click to expand...
I'm waiting for them to reply, I just thought that I would check to see if anyone else had this issue.
Thanks
 
Wish I had a sure answer for you. Good luck!
 
Last edited:
Is this problem on both calipers? Offhand, I’d check the pad plates and the guides for burrs that might be causing them not to fully seat. Other thing is to check the tolerances on the rotors for proper install. Not knowing how much you know this stuff, this might be insulting your knowhow. Just a quick thought while you wait to hear from the supplier.
 
Ron H said:
Is this problem on both calipers? Offhand, I’d check the pad plates and the guides for burrs that might be causing them not to fully seat. Other thing is to check the tolerances on the rotors for proper install. Not knowing how much you know this stuff, this might be insulting your knowhow. Just a quick thought while you wait to hear from the supplier.
Click to expand...
The problem is on both sides. The pads are fully seated. Thanks for the response.
 
Can you post a few pictures? Might be able to identify something obscure that way.
 
Maybe they sent you the "wrong stuff"?


Sorry couldn't resist that one.
 
Are the brake line connected with fluid in it? If so try opening bleed to relieve pressure to see if that frees up rotor.

I got a new master cylinder that had 2 brake residual valves in master cylinder I had ordered disk/drum but it had valves front and rear (drum/drum). Caused the brake pads to not retract, noticed this after test ride and smelled hot brakes. Removed valve from master cylinder by putting a screw in it and using pliers to pry it out, no more brake rotor drag.
 
Carcinogen said:
Are the brake line connected with fluid in it? If so try opening bleed to relieve pressure to see if that frees up rotor.

I got a new master cylinder that had 2 brake residual valves in master cylinder I had ordered disk/drum but it had valves front and rear (drum/drum). Caused the brake pads to not retract, noticed this after test ride and smelled hot brakes. Removed valve from master cylinder by putting a screw in it and using pliers to pry it out, no more brake rotor drag.
Click to expand...
The master cylinder is not installed yet.
Break lines are new and no fluid in them.
Thanks
 
djbr459 said:
The master cylinder is not installed yet.
Break lines are new and no fluid in them.
Thanks
Click to expand...


The pads may have shims which can cause them to be too thick. If they have shims (thin metal back side of pad) you can usually remove them
 
Is there a Caliper bracket that bolts onto the spindle? Is it possible le it is bolted to the spindle incorrectly?
 
Redsawacs said:
Is there a Caliper bracket that bolts onto the spindle? Is it possible le it is bolted to the spindle incorrectly?
Click to expand...
I thought about that so I checked the caliper brackets and they are correct. Also, there are no shims.
Thanks
 
Right Stuff should have responded to you by now...
 
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