• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Frustration

Frustrating?
Ha Ha
Yup, we have ALL been there
Pulled a Hemi out of my Superbee in May because one of the 2 terminals on the Starter was spinning (TTI Header application) zero clearance and I inadvertently damaged 2threads for the header on the Hansen Stage V drivers side head!
Hemi is STILL in my "Game Room"
Yup, do not give up!


OIP.1r0mCN6XZmrk8rO7QzokvAHaHa.jpeg
 
As has been mentioned, if the heads were milled or the deck was milled it can be tough to get the bolts started... Ideally the intake surface of the heads should have also been milled but some guys insist on milling the intake so fitting another intake can be a problem...

Thinner gaskets is one option, I've had decent luck getting one bolt started then going to the other side & using a 1/4 or 5/16 Allen wrench in a bolt hole as a pry lever to pull the manifold down & start a second bolt...

If it's truly a no-go taking a cut off the manifold is always an option but if you take to much you've created a worse problem so I try to avoid that... Not the right thing but I have opened up the bolt holes on a couple manifolds to get bolts in without cross threading...

It can be a PITA, patience & persistence...

Oh, one other thing in the late 70 Chrysler started using bolts with a un-threaded lead in that helps getting bolts in straight... ARP 1437

View attachment 1229904

Where can these bolts be found ? I found stainless 444-2001...
 
I have dry fitted the intakes without gaskets before and seen how close I was with 5/16 bolts in place of the 3/8-16 bolts. How those smaller bolts angle can tell you pretty quickly where your misalignment issues are happening at, but it usually almost always means the intake needs milled (well, the intake surface of the heads and the rail of the block more so but it's a little late for that!). I've been at the opposite end of the spectrum once with a heavily milled intake on a stock engine. Two tubes of ultra black and a set of steel along with two sets of composite gaskets later we managed to make it seal. We wound up sandwiching the gaskets together with ultra black a little over 1/16 thick and let them set solid before skim coating the heads and intake. It should have never worked as well as it did. So yes, where there's a will, it can be made to happen.
 
I hate to be the one to say it, but...'Jegs' parts are chinese knockoffs so no surprise it's giving you trouble...heck I've got a few Edelbrocks from different engines on the bench that don't come close to matching each other!
Since the engine is assembled (and in the car?) the best solution now is to have the manifold flanges milled. Find a good machine shop and price it out; it's typically not very much (my guy here charges $60). If it fits right without gaskets, that's a good thing to know because now you know how much to have shaved. That *should bring the front and rear sealing edges closer together as well.

I've had to run a die grinder to elongate the holes and then they lined up better on some intakes....should be able to see which way to go by setting the manifold on it and aligning it with a couple punches or studs. I thought I was the only guy who got all of that weird stuff.....
 
"Man built it, so man can fix it", is what I always tell myself. There is always a solution. Don't give up.
I'd say that the heads probably have been milled, might have to have the intake milled as well.

Heads made in America .....Intake made in China.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top