• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Correct 1971 Charger Disc Brake Proportioning/metering valves

MoparGuy68

Well-Known Member
Local time
10:04 AM
Joined
Mar 31, 2019
Messages
780
Reaction score
550
Location
Phoenix, AZ
I’m asking people on here that have 1971 Chargers, with factory power disc floating piston brakes, what kind of proportioning/metering valve setup they have on their car? And also, what is the correct factory setup when the car was new?

According my factory service manual, it shows that the unit currently installed on my car is incorrect. My unit appears to be correct for a C-Body, NOT a B-Body. The C-Body unit is a single unit described as a Brake Warning Switch/Metering Valve.

The red unit is currently on my car. It matches the appearance of the service manual photos of the C-Body unit.

In addition, according to the manual schematics, this C-Body unit is NOT even connected to the brakes properly!! The passenger caliper is connected to the rear drum brake port on the unit, and the rear drums are connected to the passenger caliper port. I shook my head in disbelief when I discovered this.. It was an unfucking believable moment.. And the lines have been connected like this for 13+ years.. This was a scary discovery.

4E6E692B-1490-4B83-9F5D-DBE6CE7B4D08.jpeg A1EB8B7D-411F-47AF-A06C-251C61523A5F.jpeg 39B3B7C4-5120-46DD-B629-5057A0636E99.jpeg 45B82BFA-68F0-45DB-8BFC-2969BB054F44.jpeg C647B00A-39C4-4753-B11F-569653E610D3.jpeg
 
The service manual states my car should have a Brake Warning Switch/Proportioning Valve unit, plus a second smaller Metering Valve unit. As shown in these photos.

Is this two unit assembly what you guys have on your factory correct 1971 Chargers with floating caliper disc brakes up front and drum in the rear?

BBEA01A2-AC3D-49C5-B96A-98CC9B0CD003.jpeg 264B55BD-593C-4737-8A96-D964C611ABAD.jpeg 6DED043D-867B-42B2-9907-55E7E7EF2884.jpeg
 
Yes the 71 should have a 2 piece brass setup like shown above. The one piece cast iron setup is 72-up for B-body. It will work fine when installed correctly but is not "correct" for 71.
 
Swap the rear and pas side?

It sure looks like the pass side line is going up the firewall (and presumably over), rather than down and along the frame horn.
 
Yes, I have a cast iron 3 combination unit (warning switch, proportioning valve, metering valve). So, not correct or original to the car.

This cast iron unit is currently attached to the inner fender by a a single bolt, with a lock washer and nut. I only see one other hole in the inner fender, that is very close to the hole currently being used to secure the cast iron unit.

Don’t know if the inner fender is original to the car or not. I am not seeing any other mounting location for the secondary metering unit (if the correct two unit setup is used).

Could someone please post a few photos of their 1971 Charger, with factory two brass unit setup, so I can see where the two separate units are mounted to the inner fender? I’m referring to the factory two units that are each separately mounted to the inner fender, not the two units attached to each other then mounted to inner fender (that one is not factory and it doesn’t look like anyone has it available in stock).

I have attached photos of my current single cast iron unit installation.

4D3A61DB-8943-4CA2-83AC-A5675790E1A6.jpeg 0F611E9E-F10F-48E1-8F71-B4A777BCA281.jpeg 9CAF414D-0B61-4A5A-9E16-A727897A7C10.jpeg F00DF811-65E4-44FD-8436-A1A098835880.jpeg
 
This is a 71 Cuda but is the same as your 71 B-body. I'm trying to find a better shot.
I've had several of these 71's and the ones with the two units mounted together and going to the one mounting hole above the access hole is correct.
20160406_104430.jpg
 
I ordered my valves and lines from Doctor Diff last Thursday.

One small box arrived, on Tuesday, containing only the proportioning and metering valves. I was expecting him to send out everything together.

After examining the valves, I see the L-brackets don’t position the valves parallel to the inner fender mounting surface. The proportioning forward facing ports are angled towards the inner fender. The metering valve rear facing ports are angled toward the inner fender.

Moparmarks valves (in the post above) look like they sit parallel to each other and his inner fender. Mine don’t. I don’t have the lines yet, and don’t know if this will cause a problem attaching them to the valves, or cause me to have to bend lines to keep them from hitting the inner fender.

I do know if these valves were going on a show car it would not score 100% because of the jumbled valve arrangement. I doubt Chrysler would have used valves that fit like this 51 years ago. It’s that swell made in China quality..

57F35F00-3278-4B3F-827F-43360BC8A2BD.jpeg 3C2ED646-C25E-4F98-B735-76BA06C91E51.jpeg 029D72AD-4223-4811-990D-D36BD1A73A1C.jpeg 93DE4353-2ACC-4A0F-B846-D7B7DA1EC163.jpeg
 
Lines get drop shipped from Right Stuff or similar, as Docdiff doesn't make the lines. I'm in the same boat, that I didn't see until check out. $66US extra for shipping for just the 2 rear end lines, on top of my axle kits and other parts that had $106 shipping tacked on.
 
After a break from the Super Bee, I’m back at work on the valve and brake line installation.

When attempting to route the new line that runs from the metering valve across the firewall to the passenger caliper I’ve run into a problem, which is in the area directly beneath the booster/master cylinder.

I cannot reference the old installation, as it was NOT factory and completely incorrect for a 1971 Charger. The Factory service manuals that I have are of no help either.

I’m uncertain of how the line should run underneath the booster. There are currently 4 holes in the firewall in this general area. On the lower left is a large hole that has been plugged up with silicon. Diagonally up and to the right of that is a hole that the speedometer cable is run through (the grommet in this hole is damaged). Next up and to the right is a smaller hole with the inside hood release cable running through it (this car did not have the inside release from factory). Further up and to the right of that one, is the 4th hole which has a grommet in it but no cable passing through it.

It looks as though the speedometer cable is currently in the way of where this brake line should run against the firewall. As you can see, the end the brake line that should connect to the rear port on the metering valve is not even close to where it needs to be. I’ll have to do some bending on that to get it into the proper orientation.

Can anyone tell me specifically what those four holes in my firewall are for? And which ones were made at the factory, and if any were made by a previous owner and not the factory (I suspect the large hole currently plugged with silicon). Is my speedometer cable currently in the correct factory hole?

Does anyone have any photos of how a factory passenger caliper line should run underneath the booster on a 71 Charger? If you do, could you please post them.

DAAC568A-F73E-4A78-9F18-B6A6F680F4FE.jpeg AEF7A18E-576E-484D-B171-17EFBFBE8E48.jpeg E756BAB8-5B5A-4684-92B7-53AAC0A2F3E2.jpeg 9616D176-D59A-44EF-ACBD-B552961961DA.jpeg B81AB254-9A01-4C26-AE53-D2D21BBE1D86.jpeg 15B1916B-ECB7-4F34-A385-66E33C48994B.jpeg 48B34DC5-268A-4C6A-B6A8-870FFE7C9D1E.jpeg 4AC3A9C7-9395-4E24-BE14-C621D1536085.jpeg
 
This is what I’ve got now. Trying to decide whether the speedo cable should run between the inner fender and the brake lines, or on the opposite side of the lines. I just don’t know how the factory correct way is supposed to be..

D613812A-E72D-4661-AF49-EFA4AA7AD906.jpeg 9F2C1A70-A608-4C64-B152-49A26AAD4452.jpeg 6B1159C3-4897-4D43-8649-A96259CD4BF9.jpeg 1CEF7492-976E-423C-ABBA-B19F37AE5CFA.jpeg 9B47CEB8-1643-4D6C-8AF4-C96B9F0A9B83.jpeg 787DFEE9-2FEF-42B8-A0A4-D1501AF81FA4.jpeg
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top