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Door Alignment Question

Moparfiend

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Hi I hung my doors with newly rebuilt hinges (Kudos to MoparLeo who did an incredible job on the hinges very professional!!) got all the gaps really good but the handle end is 3/16 high one side and 3/16 low on the other door. Thats the only edge thats off. I realize its almost perfect but not quite and needs a small tweak.

Question how should I proceed to adjust the door to raise the handle end up or down ~ 3/16”?

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Hey Ron. Hard to say without seeing the Bermuda Triangle area at the cowl/fender/door. Once you get that area right then just rotate the back up and down. Typically have to go too high so the weight pulls it down the the right level.
 
Hey Ron. Hard to say without seeing the Bermuda Triangle area at the cowl/fender/door. Once you get that area right then just rotate the back up and down. Typically have to go too high so the weight pulls it down the the right level.
Thanks Jim, yeah after doing both doors and getting so close you kinda get a feel for it just like reading and adjusting panels. I thought of preloading the door to allow for sag but didn’t do that. I bet thats the trick! At least I know how much on the low door. 4 hands wold make the job a lot easier but my makeshift door arm works quite well.

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In my experience, the interior hinge bolts adjust “twist” of the door, the door hinge bolts under the fender adjust vertical and the top and bottom of the door in and out. I adjusted mine without the door striker in place. It seemed to make it much easier.
 
In my experience, the interior hinge bolts adjust “twist” of the door, the door hinge bolts under the fender adjust vertical and the top and bottom of the door in and out. I adjusted mine without the door striker in place. It seemed to make it much easier.
I am so dizzy trying to figure out what you just wrote lol
 
It helps to have the full weight of the door present when adjusting doors. If you have the guts out of it throw some ballast in there while your'e hanging them or they will be lower after you put them all back together. Even properly wighted a hair high on the handle end may not be the worst thing, after you open/ close the doors a thousand times they may settle in a touch.
 
you have to raise the whole door if not and just raise that end it lower the front of the door it can be a pain ive spent hrs aligning doors
 
The rule of thumb is the door side hinges move the door in n out,the pillar hinge moves the door up n down.Only do one adjustment at a time.You shoild have your stricker in place.
 
Did you put new hinger pillar's in. Foun my bolt holes where off and had to drill out my hinges some to make them work. Aftermarket parts suck.
 
it can be a pain ive spent hrs aligning doors
And here I thought I was the only one that spends days adjusting doors and windows, lol.
 
My windows with the channel felt is giving me prob's. Could not get the curved ones but now have a set. Have an AC car so don't have to roll down the windows to get fresh air. LOL. Fixing to get back into the door and see if I can fix the problem with the new channel felts.
 
You have stated that the door height at the fender is correct. And that The rear of the door is too low. How does the gap at the door to 1/4 panel look? How does the gap at the front of the door to fender look? Are they the same distance top to bottom? The door will need to be raised to match the 1/4 panel. Depending on the gaps just mentioned will determine what needs to be done. Either the upper hinge at the body needs to go forward. Or the lower hinge needs to go rearward. If the door and 1/4 gaps are already good, the front of the door may need to go up at both hinges at the body. Then the fender raised to match. We always align the doors to the 1/4s first. Then adjust the fenders to fit the doors. It's all a juggling act as the panels on these cars were not all that straight to begin with. On my 64 the gap at the passenger door is closer at the bottom of the door due to the fact that the 1/4 was welded on crooked from the factory.
Doug
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The current gaps all around are good. Not sure my pictures help but all gaps are even. The only issue is door height at the handle side. NOW a good point my doors are empty and the strikers are not in. From what I hear I should probably stop here and preload the doors and attach the striker hardware.

Should I stop here and start the bodywork and do final alignment after paint and assembly? I think this makes sense….
 
You should still put your door alignment where it lines up to every thing.If you are replacing rear quarters the door being lined up will align the quarters.The doors being align, help in the alignment of fenders and rear quarters.
 
I would think preloading the doors would be a good idea. Then get the door where you want it (gaps), then put the striker in and adjust the striker to the door.

But I am no expert!
 
Don't go further until you have the doors aligned correctly. No paint and bodywork yet.
 
Don't go further until you have the doors aligned correctly. No paint and bodywork yet.
Everything is aligned but the height of the door at the striker is not perfect on one side. Its a little low. Otherwise its good to go on both sides. I’ll try to adjust it a little high so that the door when loaded should be just right.

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