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Timing Jumping around

Slant 6 Music

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71 GTX. 440+6. Stock build. Total Street car. No track for it.

When I run the timing light, I get fluctuations of 5 or more degrees in both directions, non stop strobing the time plate. RPM's on digital readout move up and down a little, but not bad. 50 or so.

Initial is around 13 and total about 29, maybe 30. I say around, because I have to estimate the middle of the strobe going up and down on the timing plate.

Engine idles smoothly and there is good power when the outboards kick in. Been able to run on pump gas 92 and dial in vac advance without pinging.

ECU. Orange box (older made in Mexico). Swapped in a Chrome box made in USA, no difference in timing readings.
Disti. Same era stock style electronic. Added a Limiter plate. Had a very knowledgeable and experienced mopar mechanic go through it and he thought it was in good operating condition.
Innova Digital Timing Light. Compared against 2 other lights, all the same results.

Talking to the folks at 4 Seconds Flat (FBO), she mentioned that the ECU box can definitely cause the timing to retard and bounce back and forth. Said that their product is digital, better, etc. But before I throw money at it, I want to make sure I'm going in the right direction.

Any comments or suggestions appreciated. Thanks in advance!
 
Is the timing being checked with the vac advance hose disconnected and plugged? When reconnected, is a ported source being used and not manifold vac?
 
a very simple test is hook up a vacuum gauge and see what is going on. Second item the reluctor on the slid state might be bad they make one that stops the wander for 20.00 from mancini.
 
a very simple test is hook up a vacuum gauge and see what is going on. Second item the reluctor on the slid state might be bad they make one that stops the wander for 20.00 from mancini.
Thanks for that info. I'll look into that. Timing chain too. I'll post results as I approach it one item at a time.
 
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This is from “on all cylinders”.com
by Summit. The picture doesn’t look clear when enlarged so go to the site.
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2016/03/31/vac-visual-quick-guide-vacuum-gauge-readings/
 
Last edited:
Also check the gap on the reluctor in all 8 positions it should be .008. If it is significantly off the upper dist shaft is bent.
 
Get one of these from Granger.
https://www.grainger.com/product/36...alflBuMIZjsOFqFi9oBoCzOcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Tighten it barely snug low on the distributor shaft. It'll bottom on the oil pump drive. Pull it back out and then fully tighten it on the shaft. It will keep the oil pump drive gear from floating up and down, The up and down movement of the helical gear changes the timing. Of course this assumes your distributor is in good shape and the timing chain is reasonably tight. It's worth $2 to try.
Doug
 
Get one of these from Granger.
https://www.grainger.com/product/36...alflBuMIZjsOFqFi9oBoCzOcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Tighten it barely snug low on the distributor shaft. It'll bottom on the oil pump drive. Pull it back out and then fully tighten it on the shaft. It will keep the oil pump drive gear from floating up and down, The up and down movement of the helical gear changes the timing. Of course this assumes your distributor is in good shape and the timing chain is reasonably tight. It's worth $2 to try.
Doug
This is a great idea should you put two collars on and lock tite set screw? Also would a flat Torrington bearing be used also??
 
The distributor and oi pump drive move as a unit. No need for a Torrington. Yes I would Loctite the screw. no need for 2 collars.

Doug
 
Also to add complications, try wiggling the dist drive around to see if the busing is loose.
 
Thanks for all of the info. Over time, I'll examine these approaches. The distributor has been gone through and is in excellent condition. You can't tell by listening to and feeling the engine run that anything is off. Just with a light on it. Again, I'll post results when I finally figure it out. For now, I've had to move on to other items on the car. Thanks!!
 
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