4208.7 AWB manual
- Thread starter rt1976
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I don’t know, are you building a awb or do you just want it for posterity, it really isn’t that much help without the blue prints.
Haldiman’s book is little better
Front
funnykarman
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I have one send me your mailing address and I will send it to you . My car is already been done .
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Cool thread!!! Kinda wondered how they were done....
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I thought the same thing but knew this was going to turn into more of an infomercial thread lolYou should have started a wanted thread.
rt1976
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Thanks I will
rt1976
Active Member
Yea ..my bad
You should have started a wanted thread.
B
Doing the front end that way is a lot of work it is my understanding the factory made them that way but the grassroots guys used straight axles which is a lot easier and I think looks much better and will handle better as well ,I have built several AWB cars and did not use this manual . The main thing is to make sure the car is level when you start cutting .
We used this method, no jigs needed, you just cut out the bottom of the existing frame, slide the new 2x3 into the cut, weld it, then in the front, weld it to the bumper mount (we put in a spacer) then cut all the old frame away and everything is still aligned as original and works for either beam axle or K/torsion bar setup.
Sticking with torsion bars adds another can of worms.
We used C body T bars, which are only 9" longer than a B body, you of course need 10, and the hex is bigger, we had a machine shop grind the hex down to b body size and welded the receivers 1 inch forward in the drop down extensions to make up the difference.
We used C body T bars, which are only 9" longer than a B body, you of course need 10, and the hex is bigger, we had a machine shop grind the hex down to b body size and welded the receivers 1 inch forward in the drop down extensions to make up the difference.
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skicker
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I used a straight axle front end on mine...
The 4208.7 manual is cool to look through but really doesn't cover many of the things that need to be modified when doing the relocation of the rear suspension...
The big difference is they were working with new panels back then...you need to cut things and separate spot welds while still keeping the integrity of both panels when you begin to reinstall everything...
Accurate layout and cutting is key to things going back in easier...
The 4208.7 manual is cool to look through but really doesn't cover many of the things that need to be modified when doing the relocation of the rear suspension...
The big difference is they were working with new panels back then...you need to cut things and separate spot welds while still keeping the integrity of both panels when you begin to reinstall everything...
Accurate layout and cutting is key to things going back in easier...
And a BUNCH of spot weld cutters.........lol
skicker
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I cut mine probably different then anyone else...I remember seeing the flat panel in the trunk floor where the floor was forward and the tailpanel and tunnel to the gas tank were in stock location...always hated the bland flat panel that was added in the rear...
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