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Cooling System Cracking Noise

John K Nelson

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Jan 6, 2018
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Location
South Dakota
64 Plymouth, 502 wedge, street/strip. Engine rebuilt 2020: New heater core 2009.
December: New fully welded Cold Case aluminum radiator installed. Terrible cracking/popping noise after warm up and for ~1 min after shutting off. Upper hose, warm to hot. Heater valve open. Good heat from heater. Coolant violently boiling? Coolant: water w. Water Wetter for race track requirements. January: Changed t-stat from 195 to Motorad 206-180 and verified that the 195 has been installed correctly. SOS. Temp gauge never gets past 180, idling in a cold garage. February: Bought a Lisle burping kit. SOS. Bought a Stratos burping kit for heater hose. SOS. Pulled t-stat drilled 1/8" hole in flange. SOS. Considering therapy. Two bad t-stats? Unlikely. Run w/o t-stat?
Any ideas out there?
 
new engine? if not did you have this problem before? If not new what have you changed before this happened. More info could help.
 
Have you tested the radiator cap? If it's not holding enough pressure it will reduce the boiling point of the fluid in the system..
 
64 Plymouth, 502 wedge, street/strip. Engine rebuilt 2020: New heater core 2009.
December: New fully welded Cold Case aluminum radiator installed. Terrible cracking/popping noise after warm up and for ~1 min after shutting off. Upper hose, warm to hot. Heater valve open. Good heat from heater. Coolant violently boiling? Coolant: water w. Water Wetter for race track requirements. January: Changed t-stat from 195 to Motorad 206-180 and verified that the 195 has been installed correctly. SOS. Temp gauge never gets past 180, idling in a cold garage. February: Bought a Lisle burping kit. SOS. Bought a Stratos burping kit for heater hose. SOS. Pulled t-stat drilled 1/8" hole in flange. SOS. Considering therapy. Two bad t-stats? Unlikely. Run w/o t-stat?
Any ideas out there?
Coolant violently boiling but water temperature never gets past 180. That does not make sense. Cant have it both ways. I would verify what the temperature really is.What are you running for water pump, fan and shroud?
 
That's a good idea - run without t-stat. If it still does it could be water pump...
 
I had an impeller come loose from the pump shaft once. It took a while to track that one down.
 
You sure it's not just that aluminum rad expanding and contracting? Loosen it's retention bolts off a turn so it's free to "move" and see if the cracking sounds go away...
 
Does the coolant system have an air pocket? If water pump is working correctly, t stat has been checked, radiator is flowing, pressure cap tested, then it is engine related or air in system. I would verify that fan is pulling air, test for hydrocarbons and most importantly verify that the cooling system is not locked due air preventing coolant movement.
 
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