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Cragar SS Uni-Lug vs Direct Drill

roadrunnerh

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I believe you are correct. Need longer studs for the direct drill. I looked at both also and ended up going with magnum 500's. ruffcut
 
I don't see where it says anything about new studs.. It mentions conical lug nuts....

Uni-lugs use old school shouldered lug nuts that have never seems as secure as conical lug nuts...
 
Direct drilled. No longer studs are need. Ask me how I know.
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Pre drilled all the way. You just need the correct lug nuts.
 
Put on first set of Cragar SS about 50 years ago. Didn't need long studs then, don't need 'em now. Absolutely not. You'll need the shank lug nuts, of course.
 
Have the new style conical nuts on the front. Old style unilug with washers on back. No new studs required on the front...got rid of the left hand studs decades ago. it's great to FINALLY get rid of the unilug.
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On one of my cars, I have a set with 2 unilug style, and 2 original wheels I've had since the early 70's
 
Thanks for the responses guys! The unilug uses the shank lug nut, runs through the wheel to contact base of wheel stud, so stock studs ok. I was just wondering if I'll have enough thread engagement with the direct drill with conical lung nuts which do not run though the wheel.
 
@roadrunnerh I don't know about the Cragers, but I've got a pair of the conical lug torque thrusts.(chinese made). I would not run them on the stock studs.
Assuming the stock 3/4" long 1/2x20 studs, the center of the torque thrusts is at least a half inch thick. So 1/4" of thread engagement, plus whatever is in the conical portion. So, six, maybe seven threads? The old mag shank wheels could use all the threaded length of the stud, with the right length shank. Personally, I would rather have 18 than six. But I don't have to worry, everything I've got has three inch studs or longer, front and rear.


Edit: this was discussed on the a-body side. (Just remembered). Turns out the conical seat cragars REQUIRE a unique cragar lug for the conical wheels, with a conical seat AND a short shank. A body guys have had then come loose with just the conical nuts. Determined by the diameter of the lug holes in the wheels.
 
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Thanks for the responses guys! The unilug uses the shank lug nut, runs through the wheel to contact base of wheel stud, so stock studs ok. I was just wondering if I'll have enough thread engagement with the direct drill with conical lung nuts which do not run though the wheel.
I put Cragar direct drill wheels on my Super Bee. If I remember correctly, there was about 3 threads of contact with the original studs. Not enough for me, so I changed all 20 studs.
 
I got Cragar SS uni-lug's on my Coronet, I hate the new style lug washer it always fights me to stay in place between the tabs on the wheel and when removing they sometimes bind on the lug and scar it, pita.
 
been running unilugs for years without any trouble
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that brings back some memories, the lugs with both ends usable for l/r thread and the little inserts you pushed in to cover the unused thread end, the offset washers to cover the slot! certainly wouldn't attempt to use them now with a little more understanding of the loads applied and the realization the wheel needs to be centered properly! wonder how I'm still alive!
 
I bought my unilug Cragars used as a kid when I was 16 back in the mid 80's before I knew any better. Been on my car ever since without any issues and are still on the car today. That's 37 years at about 4000-5000+ miles a year. I would say they work just fine.

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@Charles Cook How much thread engagement did you get with stock wheel studs on your direct drill wheels?
I ordered the correct acorn shank style lug nuts with the wheels. The shop I purchased the rims from hooked me up with the correct lugs so I wouldn’t have to change studs. The shank part of the lug nut give you plenty of threads on the original studs. A good wheel distribution center can get you the correct lug nuts.
 
I ordered the correct acorn shank style lug nuts with the wheels. The shop I purchased the rims from hooked me up with the correct lugs so I wouldn’t have to change studs. The shank part of the lug nut give you plenty of threads on the original studs. A good wheel distribution center can get you the correct lug nuts.
If I get a moment today I’ll remove one of the lugs and post a picture.
 
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