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Green axle bearings

SlinktRR said:
I listen to Ehrenberg too, but not 100%. His stance on double pumpers washing down cylinders with excess fuel I don't agree for example, I've been having good luck with my carb tuning I guess.
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Definitely, but I like his explanations. He is SAE certified and very experienced just in MOPARS, and my only knowledge of him is through reading his stuff in Mopar Action but he usually makes a lot of sense. And even sometimes his answer is “I don’t know”, which is refreshing to see someone admit. Tone Defoe was another great wealth of knowledge back in the day.
 
Thanks to all that replied. Very good conversation..
 
Gldwing57 said:
Thanks to all that replied. Very good conversation..
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If you want to obtain more info...A LOT more...do a search on this site for green bearings. About fills up a library, lol.
 
Ron H said:
If you want to obtain more info...A LOT more...do a search on this site for green bearings. About fills up a library, lol.
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I've been to the Bearing Technology site. www.brgtec.com/ Bearing Technologies purchased Green Bearings several years ago.
The information I seek relates to design information (dimensions, manufacturing tolerances, design limitations, max radial load, max axial load at max RPM, L-10 life expectancy at maximum conditions, optional additions to the basic design like shield and seal types, snap ring groove position, lubricant used, type of bearing: Conrad type, maximum type, rolling element seperator type...brass, steel, synthetic...these items all go into the selection of the optimum bearing type. I realize the ~ 95% of the users have no use or understand the information I seek and base their decision on what certain vendor's have available for sale. But, what is their recourse in the event of a failure? Will the bearing supplier cover all related costs or just offer a new bearing or a disclosure of: "it was installed wrong". Personally, when and if my axle bearings need replaced or serviced, I'll replace them with the OEM Timken Tapered axle bearings as originally installed. I see no need to install anything else. What others choose to do with their vehicles for what ever reason is OK.
BOB RENTON
 
What I have seen with the Green roller bearings is they locate the axles slightly closer to the axle ends, and if the diff center pin is not removed, or the axle ends slightly ground down, the axles will both contact the center button before the bearing flange is flush to the backing plates. Many don't notice this and just tighten the ends down so the axles have pre-loaded the bearings with outward pressure, and that wears the bearing out quickly.
There is also the two different green bearing retainer designs. The solid plate end design, and the floating plate design. I likely messed up the exact names, but the floating type has a clip on the bearing and a plate with a hole in it that is smaller than the clip that holds the axle in.

The tapered bearings are a stronger design, but not well sealed. They should be inspected and greased like the front wheel bearings.

When I did the rear disc brake conversion the kit said I had to use green bearings, but looking at it, that was just because the kit is designed to center the rotor in the caliper. i could have used the taper bearings and shimmed the calipers to center them.
 
What’s the saying; If it isn’t broke don’t fix it? Installed green’s at the suggestion of a bud who is a talented mechanic when restoring my car. Some years before I had swapped out the old tapered setup in my ’63 for a ’65 Coronet rear. The OEM bearings were friggin FINE. First set of green’s lasted about 1,000 miles so back to the hassle of replacing the bearings with a new set of greens, so far so good. There were stories of some bad batches of these bearings. If I had a do over? I’d a just left well enough ALONE.
 
Ron H said:
What’s the saying; If it isn’t broke don’t fix it? Installed green’s at the suggestion of a bud who is a talented mechanic when restoring my car. Some years before I had swapped out the old tapered setup in my ’63 for a ’65 Coronet rear. The OEM bearings were friggin FINE. First set of green’s lasted about 1,000 miles so back to the hassle of replacing the bearings with a new set of greens, so far so good. There were stories of some bad batches of these bearings. If I had a do over? I’d a just left well enough ALONE.
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Thank you for your comments. I'm a firm believer in the origional design and application....the Timken bearings have lasted many years with only minimal service .....but, perhaps some owners are trying to relate to a lower cost of the bearing assembly and adapting it to the application. Perhaps the supplier has a better margin cost for the Green bearing vs the Timken bearing assembly....after all, the business is profit driven....
BOB RENTON
 
Photon440 said:
Dr. Diff's remarks regarding Green Bearings:
http://www.doctordiff.com/blog/tech-info/why-green-bearings/
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Thank you for the link.....I've seen it several times b4. I do not believe that "Dr. Diff" is a design engineer (could be wrong about that) but a businessman. I've asked several times about the bearing design criteria and information about why was this particular bearing selected not just by the part number, MO-400, and it dimensions. My quest for information is strictly for my own curiosity and use. Again, to those who have successfully installed the Green bearing and are satified with the performance....great. I'll just stick with the Mopar selection for my vehicle.
BOB RENTON
 
RJRENTON said:
Thank you for the link.....I've seen it several times b4. I do not believe that "Dr. Diff" is a design engineer (could be wrong about that) but a businessman. I've asked several times about the bearing design criteria and information about why was this particular bearing selected not just by the part number, MO-400, and it dimensions. My quest for information is strictly for my own curiosity and use. Again, to those who have successfully installed the Green bearing and are satified with the performance....great. I'll just stick with the Mopar selection for my vehicle.
BOB RENTON
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I've had plenty of experience with 'design' engineers to know that most of them have no experience what so ever with what goes on out in 'the field'. In fact, the ones out in the field have a better grasp with what's needed vs the 'desk' engineers that never get any field experience. And yeah, I've had plenty of experience with both. The engineers with field experience are the ones I don't mind working with. Also have to think about how many rear ends that have been modified and are not even close to being straight and have come across some that were totally screwed from the factory and then you have the ones that got tied down on the transports to the point where they were bent out of shape enough that no bearing would last long. I've stuck my alignment bar into some rears that came out of 'granny' cars that were off at least 1/8" and yet they had 100k miles on them. Go figure.
 
Used Green Bearing's on my 8 and 3/4 1500 miles so far no problem's. No doughnuts. Just burn out's. LOL. Road runner too big of a car to do drifting.
 
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BE aware of what you are buying....
I am installing this 9" into my Fox body mustang.... Ordered it knowing it was coming with Ball bearing axle bearings ( I am assuming the same idea as green) but I could change out to tapered later if I wanted to..Well, I was wrong...
Different size Inside Diameters, that require different size axles.....
Not happy, but I will run the ball bearings before I order NEW axles....
I do not know if this applies to 8 3/4 or Dana's.....
I am not a "ford" guy, but I had "ford" guys telling my I was full of sheet..... LOL... nope I am not.....
 
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Doc. Diff is who I got mine from. But you still need the plug in the differential. That spacer that keep's the axel's from going too far in.
 
blue69runner said:
Doc. Diff is who I got mine from. But you still need the plug in the differential. That spacer that keep's the axel's from going too far in.
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You need to remove the "buttons" in the limited slip rears in order to use the Green Bearings. The C clip on the bearing keeps the axle from going in too far. If you don't have a C clip on your bearing don't use it.
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My understanding is "race" axles softer than "street" axles and would wear the ends quickly as tapered bearings thrust to the center block or pins.
That's why ball bearings are used.
 
Mr. Mike said:
My understanding is "race" axles softer than "street" axles and would wear the ends quickly as tapered bearings thrust to the center block or pins.
That's why ball bearings are used.
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BUT.....ball bearings do not have the same axial load (and radial load) capabilities as tapered roller besrings, size for size. The tapered bearing assembly is an interference fit to the axle and cannot move only to the extent allowed by the end play adjustment. Ball bearings are different than tapered race bearings but does not make them better......or worse....
BOB RENTON
 
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