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Anybody ever removed a floor from 1 car and installed in another?

68-500

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So I pretty sure im going to buy a 68 coronet sedan for a parts car. I can use the hood, deck lid, tail panel, several pieces from under the dash. Heres my real question. Has anybody removed floor pan from a donor car and then installed in your project? Am I crazy to think i can? I know this much im cheap and i like the fact its mopar steel. Will i end up getting it out and have a hunk of junk I can’t install?
 
That particular operation, no. Simply because usually the floors are among the first to rot. Can it be done ? Why not ? I'd be concerned with the condition of the donor floor before even thinking about going ahead. As always, leave as much original metal on the project car. Then trim & fit only what you need to replace.
 
Yes, pulled several out of e-bodies and 71 b-bodies and reused them. I used a Blair spotweld cutter.
 
The floors are very nice. I almost have to cut the donor up but thats what sedans are for I guess. So your opinion is i should section it out and make patch panels? Im probably paranoid but I worry about rust at the butt welds later. Maybe I should mention this car will be a driver rain or shine, most likely no snow. It most likely will never see a complete restoration. When I get the body done it will get sprayed with a single stage paint and hit the streets.
Thanks for you answers please keep commenting
 
I tried doing this with a trunk floor from another '64 Polara parts car for my project. After spending most of a weekend and a few spot weld cutters, I finally had the floor out. After really looking at it, I decided it was a POS, and bought a new pan and had it installed. A lot more $$$, but I have never regretted it. I have regretted my wasted weekend on the other piece, however.
 
I used to sell crap out of original metal. Have a lot of customers tell me that my floors pretty much "fell into place".

DCP_0004.JPG
 
Moparmarks, thats the answer I wanted to here. However im afraid the results will be simular to Dave6t4. I’m hard headed enough to try, so please give out all the tips and tricks to get it out in a salvagable piece.
 
We have done it, it’s time consuming but worth every penny in my book. I was a young kid and his dad was restoring a RR ragtop and in the summer I’d hang out there and visit and drill welds.
 
If the pans aren't real solid don't waste your time. If they are solid then take your time and you'll be real happy. The AMD pieces for 62-65 B's , if you can find them, were real pricy compared to ANY other car.
The full trunk floor setup was 1200.00. I was buying complete 4-door cars for way less.
 
It's a ton of work removing them and a waste of time if you're going to cut them up for patch panels. This is one piece where buying Taiwan makes sense.
 
I have recently removed a trunk floor from a coronet and saved it. It is very labor intensive but it can be done.
 
If your not needing the rocker panels or firewall cut the panel out oversize & strip away the excess outside the car where you have room to work...

Or you could do it like Mark, drill every spot weld in place and try to sell whatever sheetmetal you don't need.. Four Door rockers I'd still cut out of my way, not much of a market for them..

I know everybody uses AMD these days but I'm a big fan of original metal, it fits every time..

I did do a partial floor on my Coronet..

floor copy.jpg
floor1.jpg
 
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I've done it. It worked great. Get familiar with a spotweld cutter, and be patient. As noted above, if your not saving the piece next to it or under it, it can save time.
 
I'll be doing this (or die trying) eventually with the super clean donor 4 door parts car floor into my wagon.

I'm debating just cutting and butt welding the sections I need (foot well area), other than the rear sections of which I need almost all, rather than trying to undo all the floor to rocker and floor to firewall welds that seem to be a BITCH to get to.
 
I used to sell crap out of original metal. Have a lot of customers tell me that my floors pretty much "fell into place".
I bought the rear floor from you and it fit perfectly.
The hard part, which I didn't do in this case, is drilling out the donor panel - and not drilling completely through both panels.

I was mindful of this in other sections that I drilled out. You want the panel with the hole to be on top of the panel with no holes.

Mark did it perfectly.
Holes where you need them, no holes where you don't, so no need to fill unwanted holes. For example, drilled through where it sits on the frame rails, no holes where it sits under the trunk pan.

I used a spotweld cutter where it didn't matter, and one of those bits with the round grinding head where I didn't want to a hole through the bottom panel.
A larger drill bit also works as long as you're careful and don't force it through the bottom panel.

Floor replacement- front seam
 
That settles it im going to remove it in 1 piece. Nothing to lose but some time, spot weld cutters, and probably blood sweat and cuss words.
 
The floors are very nice. I almost have to cut the donor up but thats what sedans are for I guess. So your opinion is i should section it out and make patch panels? Im probably paranoid but I worry about rust at the butt welds later. Maybe I should mention this car will be a driver rain or shine, most likely no snow. It most likely will never see a complete restoration. When I get the body done it will get sprayed with a single stage paint and hit the streets.
Thanks for you answers please keep commenting
Butt welds are fairly easy to smooth out and paint or seal. Lap welds are a bit harder to seal up. Even the factory didn't do a very good job on sealing some lap welds.
 
Get some Blair Rotabroch cutters. Don't waste your time or money on the others. Use 15/16" were you can and 3/8" when needed.
http://shop.blairequipment.com/Rotabroach-Cutters-s/2.htm
Also get some Seam Splitters. I have a few. I bent a curve into a couple so I have a right and left for going around corners and getting into tight spots.
https://www.amazon.com/Steck-20015-...&keywords=seam+splitter&qid=1648400817&sr=8-3
Also use some thin cutoff wheels . There are some stich welds here and there.
As stated cut away the junk to get to what you need.
 
In my Hay Day I could drill out the 5000 welds and completely disassemble a unibody in about 40 hours. No cutting.
 
In my Hay Day I could drill out the 5000 welds and completely disassemble a unibody in about 40 hours. No cutting.

It was easier when we were younger, stronger, more flexible, more motivated, dumber.... LOL...
 
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